Question Dump: Post Your Questions Here.

[Dr.Goomonkey]

Originally Posted by flameslayer93

Officially, I believe you do not get to keep moving, even to flatten your double-spacer. But, as a player I'd never enforce that. I would leave this open to your opponent/TD.

That sounds about right. Kinda like how officially you can't nudge your opponent's Stinger to fit onto a space.

[flameslayer93]

Originally Posted by Dr.Goomonkey

That sounds about right. Kinda like how officially you can't nudge your opponent's Stinger to fit onto a space.

I've enforced this rule once, as far as I can remember, but it was with Raelin and she was in a crater. She couldn't be repostioned in a manner that would have allowed the movement. Unless you count not letting the Hive flip

[Rÿchean]

Originally Posted by Dr.Goomonkey

Hmm... That second bit raises a question for double spaced figures landing on glyphs. If approaching a glyph from a different level, would the double-spaced figure be able to move one "past" the glyph in order to be legally placed, or would it have to approach the glyph from a same-level space?

A double hex figure has to end its move as soon as it enters the space with the glyph. If that makes it be on 2 different levels, then it cannot go there. If there is no same level hex next to the glyph space, then a double hex figure cannot go there at all.

So, yes, in order to be on the glyph the double hex figure would have to approach from a same level space.

However, when moving off a glyph, a double hex figure does not have to stop as its trail end enters the glyph space.

[Dad_Scaper]

Those rules lead to this interesting position, where the G is grass and the W is water:

Jotun
G..G..w..W..W

Jotun, standing on the grass spaces, cannot cross the low water to get to the high water on the other side. As soon as he has one leg on the low water and one leg on the high water, he has both "feet" in the water and must stop, but he can't, so he can't go there. Therefore, he can't cross. The last water space - the fifth one - could be grass; it doesn't matter.

[Rÿchean]

Exactly.

Right from the FAQ:

When a double-space figure moves from a water space on one level, up to a water space on the next level, can it continue moving since the 2 water spaces it now “occupies” are not on the same level? No. Technically, the double-space figure is on 2 water spaces so it must stop. But since it is on different levels and it cannot stop on different levels, it cannot move up to that 2nd level water space. It must find another way around.

A similar situation occurs when Major X17 is standing in the middle hex of a high ground seven hex. As soon as an opponent's marrden hound tries to move up into engagement with Major X17, it is cyberclawed and can move no further but since it would be on 2 different levels, it cannot move up there at all.

[legoboy]

New question: We're playing a 1000 point game, I'm using Tor-Kul-Na and Su-Bak-Na. I have Nagrubs adjacent to TKN. Can I activate SBN with Hivelord Life Bonding, but use a Nagrub to heal up TKN? The card is a little vague on the issue.

"Before moving the chosen hivelord you may destroy one adjacent nagrub..." yadda, yadda , yadda.

Seems to indicate that it should be the same hivelord, but I've always gone with do what the card says, not what it doesn't. Any help would be appreciated.

As always, thanks in advance.

[vegietarian18]

I think the answer is no, you can only heal the bonded hero.

Hivelord Life Bonding:
Before taking a turn with Marrden Nagrubs, you may first take a turn with any Hivelord you control. Before moving the chosen Hivelord, you may destroy one adjacent Marrden Nagrub you control. If you destroy a Marrden Nagrub with Hivelord Life Bonding, remove 1 wound marker from the chosen Hivelord's Army Card.

The repeat usage of "chosen Hivelord" to me implies that this is the same Hivelord

[legoboy]

That was our take also. However we went with the fact that the card writers hadn't written "you may destroy one Marden Nagrub adjacent to any Hivelord" theory. I just like having things clarified. Thanks Veggie.

[TGRF]

Where can I find a comprehensive database of the HeroScape lore?

I've been using the HS compendium for some time (can't remember where it came from), but there are some things which it doesn't seem very clear on. For example, I know that Einar and Vydar used to be allied with Utgar. I recall that Vydar joined Jandar because Utgar poisoned his water sources or something, but I can't recall why Einar joined the alliance.

The compendium makes it sound like neither Einar nor Vydar were ever with Utgar, and simply says that 'facing the pollution of his [Vydar's] land’s water sources from the North and due to the desertion of his own people into Kinsland, he allies himself with Jandar and the other generals against Utgar.'

If anything, that sounds like the source of pollution came from the north, which would seem to implicate Jandar.

A little help please?

~TGRF.

[vvildeyedjoker]

Hi all, wasn't sure where to post this so figured the question dump would do. I've been playing miniature games for a while now but all of my games have been prepainted. I finally found a game that isn't painted but looks interesting enough to try my hand at it. I was wondering if there are any resources or tips on this site to learn how to. I found a kit on Amazon that claims to be an inclusive learn how to kit that comes with practice miniatures. Just not sure if that's a worthwhile start or if anyone knows a better way/place/kit to start with. Thank you!

[Dr.Goomonkey]

@vvildeyedjoker , I would say to not spend buko bucks on something like that, and to (at least start) with some cheaper paints that you can pick up at Michael's/Joanne's/Hobby Lobby (if you feel okay about shopping there...). When I asked this same question @DocBlizz gave me this very helpful link:
http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list...68RPBBAuVc_Hfh


I personally go with the middle of the road quality acrylic paints, not the big Apple Barrel Paints style tubes but not actual miniature paint either, the acrylic art paint that you should be able to find in a pack with a good number of colors. Getting a decent primer is very helpful, I use some white spray-on primer that I think is actually supposed to be for canvases or something, but it seems to do the trick.


If you have multiples of RotV figures or anything, you could also start with some of them just to get the hang of it before your new minis that you probably only have one set of.


You can see examples of cheaper paint on my repaints thread, or on this thread, I know at least @Cavalier uses cheap paints there, his stuff is around pages 10-13 I think.


EDIT: Of course if the practice miniatures look worth getting, and "better" paint seems worth it to you, go ahead. I just would recommend starting cheaper. So far I've stayed cheaper too.

[Sir Heroscape]

This came up in my last online game. Say you take a turn with a Fire Elemental and get it adjacent to a figure that already has 2 other Fire Elementals adjacent to it, do you roll for Searing Intensity 3 times for the figure because it has 3 elementals adjacent?

We said no because of the wording "roll the D20 once for each figure..." but I just wanted to see what others say.