The minis will not be a sea of unpainted gray

[IAmBatman]

Originally Posted by Tai-Pan

I mean pics of what we have, at least the terrain. Show some people what 4 of these new Master Sets could build. They definitely did not tap the potential of epic battlefields yet.

Do we have an actual breakdown of the terrain included yet? As someone who's considering backing for terrain and selling the minis to recoup some cost (if I can scrounge together the budget) I'd be pretty interested. But also we don't know what maps we can build unless we know the specifics of the terrain being offered.

[Hogg]

Originally Posted by IAmBatman

Do we have an actual breakdown of the terrain included yet? As someone who's considering backing for terrain and selling the minis to recoup some cost (if I can scrounge together the budget) I'd be pretty interested. But also we don't know what maps we can build unless we know the specifics of the terrain being offered.

They're keeping it secret so you'll be surprised when you open it.

[IAmBatman]

Originally Posted by Hogg

They're keeping it secret so you'll be surprised when you open it.

They shared a breakdown of the terrain today on Discord and it's making the rounds. I don't think it's on the campaign page or anything, but at least it's being discussed.

[IAmBatman]

[caps]

I can attest that you get pretty astounding results. I don't love it for some categories of detail work, but I've been impressed at the results I'm getting with it.

[caps]

The Speedpaints will provide highlights even on just one coat of white primer. The two-primer technique is a nice touch, but I wouldn't consider it necessary for speed paints.

[Tai-Pan]

I started by doing very basic paint jobs with a dip. Something like one color each for skin, weapon, clothing, armor. Then a dark floor varnish watered down to a watery consistency. The figure with a very basic paint job gets dipped in the varnish and then shaken to remove excess wash. If it's too dark in places, I touch them with a brush to soak a little wash up. The wash does a lot for shadowing and adds a battleworn look to the figures and the varnish gives it a harder coating that protects the paint, which can chip or rub off with use.

[wriggz]

Originally Posted by Tai-Pan

I started by doing very basic paint jobs with a dip. Something like one color each for skin, weapon, clothing, armor. Then a dark floor varnish watered down to a watery consistency. The figure with a very basic paint job gets dipped in the varnish and then shaken to remove excess wash. If it's too dark in places, I touch them with a brush to soak a little wash up. The wash does a lot for shadowing and adds a battleworn look to the figures and the varnish gives it a harder coating that protects the paint, which can chip or rub off with use.

Army painter makes a "friendlier" dip than floor varnish. I recommend applying the wash with a cheep brush for more control and less mess, but the results are solid.

[Yodaking]

I just picked up a can of the 'dip' for the first time this weekend at a gaming shop. Cost me $30, but I wanted to try this stuff out. Never used it before.

[wriggz]

Originally Posted by Yodaking

I just picked up a can of the 'dip' for the first time this weekend at a gaming shop. Cost me $30, but I wanted to try this stuff out. Never used it before.

It's liquid talent. It will dry lighter, and at first you will feel like you ruined your paint job. Seriously dipping is messy. A cheap dollarstor brush is cleaner as long as it's not so cheap the Brussels fall out. I found kids brushes to be the best.

[Yodaking]

I was wondering about the 'shake off the excess' part and how I would do that without getting it all over the walls. Might just try the brush method first, I have a bunch of old brushes I can use up experimenting with it.

[TREX]

Originally Posted by Yodaking

I was wondering about the 'shake off the excess' part and how I would do that without getting it all over the walls. Might just try the brush method first, I have a bunch of old brushes I can use up experimenting with it.

Hey YK. I've used the Army painters quickshade dip stuff extensively and painted up probably 1000 plus minis using it. I don't use it so much nowadays but Ill throw at you my insights on it so you can get some good results without any of the pain. You'll want a soft bristle brush that you won't mind throwing away sometime later. You'll want to get you a small can of mineral or white spirits. This stuff is oil based not water based. The spirits can be used to clean your brush, thin the shade, or be used to wipe the excess off using the wipe method. Which I recommend. Some makeup sponges or q tips are also recommended. Here's the method.

Get about 10 models or so out.
Brush on the shade onto the models in a production line fashion. keep the shade from being on there too thick.
Go through the entire set of models with a brush pass, then cycle back to the first one and soak up any excess pools. Do this in the same order you brushed them. After that is done you could be done. It will leave your models darker all over. If you'd like them to look better, this is where id suggest the wipe method. After soaking up the excess on the models, go back to the first model and with a makeup sponge or qtip that has been dipped in spirits, lightly wipe the edges and highlighted parts of the model. This will lightly remove the shade from the highlighted parts or edges making them a little brighter and creating more contrast. You don't want to press too hard because you can wipe away the paint from underneath the shade. Just lightly. This creates a fantastic look to the model and makes them slightly less dirty looking. I also do not recommend doing the dip method so much on white models. It looks literally like doodoo. Using the wipe method on them helps. Pun intended. After the model cures for 12 to 24 hours, I spray the models with a matte clear coat. Another thing to know about these shades is that they are very glossy when they cure. Hope this helps. Doing this correctly can bring great results, doing it poorly can completely ruin your models. This same technique above can be used with oil paint washes. Which is something I use more nowadays. My main two techniques I currently am using are Army Painter Speed paints and using my Airbrushes. Feel free to pick my brain on paint techniques, I don't mind. Hope this helps you knock out lots of minis. Good luck.

PS: If you rinse the brush in mineral spirits then let it just sit in a paint cup of water afterwards, it will not harden and be garbage after one session. Also a good idea to make sure that can is nice and sealed shut tight after use. I've had a can of it dry up on me and be ruined. Felt bad only getting to use half of that can for 30 bucks.