Index of Classic Heroscape .stl files

[robbdaman]

Nothing says you can't put them on normal Heroscape bases if you're printing them. Most of my Death Chasers are original D&D Miniatures rather than the Heroscape ones. I saw no reason to buy those when I already had them albeit in a bit different paint scheme.

[TREX]

Originally Posted by White Knight

The Death Chasers should be on the small D&D base as well (1" diameter), but I don't have them so maybe someone who has them can measure the bases.

Here is a scan of one of the Deathchasers along with some an Anubian Wolf and a Mohican (which use standard bases) and a Death Knight (which also uses the standard D&D base).

I would just put the chasers on standard bases. TBH it just seems that they were trying to save a buck when they made those that way.( unless they were making them compatible with a 1 inch grid system for dnd.)

[robbdaman]

Originally Posted by TREX

I would just put the chasers on standard bases. TBH it just seems that they were trying to save a buck when they made those that way.( unless they were making them compatible with a 1 inch grid system for dnd.)

100% guarantee that. Note that the large bases changed to the 2" size as well remember? It was all a ploy to get D&D and other RPGers to buy them as well.

[TREX]

I've been having on again, off again issues with my resin 3d printer. Granted, I've still got hundreds of models out of it. I came across something very stupid (On my part) recently. I've looked into all the different settings, made adjustments, figured out how everything functioned as to trouble shoot it better, all the while overlooking something super simple. When I setup my machine initially, the settings in the little manual recommended my layer height at 0.05. I've constantly had issues with suction force and sticking to the FEP. I slowed things down, I messed with settings on the lift speed and pretty much checked out everything else I could......Except change the layer height to the setting under 0.05. Which is 0.025 on my machine. Putting the layer at half the height essentially does all of what the other stuff went about doing but more easily. Its not so much about trying to get better detail on this but having it pull easier from the fep. Just thought I would share my simple findings that I seemed to miss. I'll know for sure if I keep on getting good build plates one after the other after the other. The good that came from this is that now I know pretty much about anything else that can go wrong. Hope this tidbit may help some of you and hopefully it is my real problem. Just finished compiling all of the files from @scapedood off of thingiverse into a single folder now that I may be running the resin printer non stop, gotta get to printing out a legion of scape figures.

[White Knight]

Originally Posted by TREX

I've been having on again, off again issues with my resin 3d printer. Granted, I've still got hundreds of models out of it. I came across something very stupid (On my part) recently. I've looked into all the different settings, made adjustments, figured out how everything functioned as to trouble shoot it better, all the while overlooking something super simple. When I setup my machine initially, the settings in the little manual recommended my layer height at 0.05. I've constantly had issues with suction force and sticking to the FEP. I slowed things down, I messed with settings on the lift speed and pretty much checked out everything else I could......Except change the layer height to the setting under 0.05. Which is 0.025 on my machine. Putting the layer at half the height essentially does all of what the other stuff went about doing but more easily. Its not so much about trying to get better detail on this but having it pull easier from the fep. Just thought I would share my simple findings that I seemed to miss. I'll know for sure if I keep on getting good build plates one after the other after the other. The good that came from this is that now I know pretty much about anything else that can go wrong. Hope this tidbit may help some of you and hopefully it is my real problem. Just finished compiling all of the files from @scapedood off of thingiverse into a single folder now that I may be running the resin printer non stop, gotta get to printing out a legion of scape figures.

My prints started sticking to the FEP when I added some Monocure Flex to my resin to make it more durable. I looked up on the internet, and some guy suggested applying Rain-X to the FEP.

Well, I cleaned out the resin, applied some Rain-X, dried it off, added resin, and no more sticking!


Try Rain-X. I couldn't be happier.

(And use it on your car windshields as well... )

[White Knight]

Added Werewolf Lord

To Finish List
Frost Giant
Grok Rider 3
Ice Troll Berserker
Iron Golem
Kumiko
Laglor
Ogre Warhulk
Werewolf Lord

[TREX]

@White Knight . Ive done the rain x bit. Ive currently got some ptfe lube on mine done in the same manner. Ive still had issues off and on. Ill see if this latest bit is what will fix things. Between you and scapedood, you guys have seriously changed the game for heroscape. Not only will I establish my collection back to what it was, Ill supercede that with all the characters I never picked up enough of to have even more. Very exciting.

[Tornado]

So what did you set your layer height to?

[Flash_19]

Originally Posted by White Knight

The Death Chasers should be on the small D&D base as well (1" diameter), but I don't have them so maybe someone who has them can measure the bases.

Here is a scan of one of the Deathchasers along with some an Anubian Wolf and a Mohican (which use standard bases) and a Death Knight (which also uses the standard D&D base).

Originally Posted by robbdaman

Nothing says you can't put them on normal Heroscape bases if you're printing them. Most of my Death Chasers are original D&D Miniatures rather than the Heroscape ones. I saw no reason to buy those when I already had them albeit in a bit different paint scheme.

Originally Posted by TREX

I would just put the chasers on standard bases. TBH it just seems that they were trying to save a buck when they made those that way.( unless they were making them compatible with a 1 inch grid system for dnd.)

Thanks so much everyone for weighing in!

[TREX]

Originally Posted by Tornado

So what did you set your layer height to?

Its set at 0.025. Ive had 3 build plates print without doing the old failure that hits me off an on. My last one had some failures in it but only because of some files I overlooked that were bad and others that I didn't support thoroughly enough cause I rushed it. Im going to run some scape files today that I have supported properly but with the smaller layer height.

[Pumpkin_King]

I wish I had access to my VC collection back home. I'd send them for scans!

[TREX]

Originally Posted by Pumpkin_King

I wish I had access to my VC collection back home. I'd send them for scans!

I think it will be great to do C3V next. Some of those models are just as expensive as official heroscape.

Fun little tip, and a little bit of poetic justice for all you folks needing good pictures of the official stuff when painting your 3d prints. It came to me, while searching for some good pics to show all the colors on the models the best when doing up my axegrinders. (its been awhile since I've had the originals at my place.) I was looking on google images and found some wonderful scape pictures to use as painting references. It just so happens that they are the stock photos from ATH. It put a smile on my face to use these photos as references because they were going for an extortionate 90 dollars a squad, and I only have about 5 bucks in materials invested in them for 4 squads, not counting my time and such. So, just giving a heads up, that ATH's pics are good quality for checking out colors to paint up the details on your prints, Happy painting.