Index of Classic Heroscape .stl files

[obfuscatedhippo]

These are great - THANK YOU!

I am not super familiar with the 3D printing process. For a custom print - could you increase the size? Like say I wanted a Minion of Utgar to be about 50% larger, is that easy to do?

I'll drop you a PM (and some Rep) as well.

[Pumpkin_King]

Hey WK, my brother just purchased a 3D printer and attempted to print some of these files. He’s using a program called Sli3r to interface with the printer. The program uses .gcode files, and it says it should be able to convert the .stl files, but when converted to .gcode it doesn’t seem to be able to properly read the file. Do you know anything about this?

[Motiv]

Hi,

I have recently starting 3d printing and I am loving your models but, I noticed that your Wo-Sa-Ga file is "perfect". and it is perfect, I am just wondering how you were able to get this model perfect and if you plan on refining/updating any others. Thanks!

[Tornado]

How about a human sized Jotun?

Or Baby Braxas.

[TREX]

Originally Posted by Tornado

How about a human sized Jotun?

Or Baby Braxas.

Some files are a lot cleaner than others. Its very easy to scale them up and down in my slicer before printing. I printed out a group of blade gruts that are truly brute gruts. On all these files I have to scale them up 2540% to make them normal size. I scaled the 4 orcs up to 3500%. The base overlaps a normal hex space a little bit, but they turned out fantastic. Im going to paint them up as orc warchiefs or something. The details on the blade gruts is pretty decent. I also printed out an ornak, acolarth, and sir gilbert normal size. @White Knight is there any way I can help you with this project. Its really great and would love to try to clean up some of the details on some of the lower poly models. Ive been getting wrecked by my UC lately but plan on posting up some of the cool stuff from this thread that Ive printed.

[White Knight]

Originally Posted by TREX

@White Knight is there any way I can help you with this project. Its really great and would love to try to clean up some of the details on some of the lower poly models. Ive been getting wrecked by my UC lately but plan on posting up some of the cool stuff from this thread that Ive printed.

I have files for the D2 and D3 models that I haven't posted yet. D2 is probably half-way done, but the rest are raw scans that include the backgrounds and often have little holes or attached material and need to be edited. I use Blender to modify them and give them bases.

I also have some higher resolution raw scans of some of the other classic figures. For Hexscape, we scanned the figures, reduced the resolution of the models to make them faster to load, and then fixed up the holes and issues. For the scans I made, I still have the original higher resolution scans. But they still have and holes and issues and need to be fixed. I don't have the original scans for those done by Kinseth and others, and they are no longer available by Autodesk.

Also, since they are 123D Catch/Remake scans, even the higher resolution files are still fairly low resolution. They work for me, but I know a lot of people would not be satisfied with them. Maybe someday someone with a laser scanner will come along with better files...


If you want to help edit them, I can give you the links of the scan files.

[TREX]

Originally Posted by White Knight

I have files for the D2 and D3 models that I haven't posted yet. D2 is probably half-way done, but the rest are raw scans that include the backgrounds and often have little holes or attached material and need to be edited. I use Blender to modify them and give them bases.

I also have some higher resolution raw scans of some of the other classic figures. For Hexscape, we scanned the figures, reduced the resolution of the models to make them faster to load, and then fixed up the holes and issues. For the scans I made, I still have the original higher resolution scans. But they still have and holes and issues and need to be fixed. I don't have the original scans for those done by Kinseth and others, and they are no longer available by Autodesk.

Also, since they are 123D Catch/Remake scans, even the higher resolution files are still fairly low resolution. They work for me, but I know a lot of people would not be satisfied with them. Maybe someday someone with a laser scanner will come along with better files...


If you want to help edit them, I can give you the links of the scan files.

That would be cool. I have a brother that knows blender pretty well and is teaching me as well. He would also want to help with this.

[Tornado]

Which elementals japes?
HeroClix has great substitutes for the Fire ones.


The plastic is fairly cheap once you get the printer.

[japes]

Originally Posted by Tornado

Which elementals japes?
HeroClix has great substitutes for the Fire ones.


The plastic is fairly cheap once you get the printer.

I guess my question was more general than I made it...I'm just curious how much a regular medium sized figure would cost to print? Also can you do hallow things as well...like the RttFF trees for instance?

[TREX]

Originally Posted by japes

I guess my question was more general than I made it...I'm just curious how much a regular medium sized figure would cost to print? Also can you do hallow things as well...like the RttFF trees for instance?

The cost of the figures depends on how much time it took for the mini and how much filament the mini uses. There are a bunch of factors to this. First is the quality of the machine. Machines that run a higher quality may be more expensive.(there are some exceptions). Then there is the speed. Generally faster means less detail. The slower it goes the longer the machine runs using more power but equally wears on the machine as if you were to run it faster. There is the knowlege factor built in where you have to dial in your machine to make it work best for you with maintenance and the correct settings. Lastly there is filament. The filament comes in different qualities by price. The cheaper stuff gets you some really cheap things but may ruin your nozzles faster. I definitely recommend buying a 3d printer if your half the plasticrack addict I am. My wife bought me 2 rolls of filament for my birthday to make whatever I like. When buying figurines from other places figuring in what shipping costs is something you want to do as well. It has went up since I last shipped anything out. My machine made each fire elemental in about 30min including the base. It made the giant orcs about an hour and 20 to an hour and 30 depending on the sculpt. Generally on my printer it takes about 45 min for a standard 28mm figurine to print on my custom settings that are faster than the stock settings.

[White Knight]

I used clear PETG for my fire elemental and did a red, orange, and yellow wash. I'm happy with how they turned out.

The clear PETG is $28 for 1kg, which is about 100 meters (I haven't done the density calculation). A medium Heroscape figure uses about .5m to 1m of filament. That's about $.14 to $.28 a figure, about a quarter a figure.

Machine time is 20 minutes to 4+ hours depending on the desired resolution and complexity. I use fairly fast settings for mine, since I haven't seen much difference with slower settings. So I'm on the lower end of time. But TREX's printer has better resolution so it probably takes longer.

There is also some time involved in cleaning off support structures after the print.

But the basic material cost is low.

[japes]

Originally Posted by White Knight

I used clear PETG for my fire elemental and did a red, orange, and yellow wash. I'm happy with how they turned out.

The clear PETG is $28 for 1kg, which is about 100 meters (I haven't done the density calculation). A medium Heroscape figure uses about .5m to 1m of filament. That's about $.14 to $.28 a figure, about a quarter a figure.

Machine time is 20 minutes to 4+ hours depending on the desired resolution and complexity. I use fairly fast settings for mine, since I haven't seen much difference with slower settings. So I'm on the lower end of time. But TREX's printer has better resolution so it probably takes longer.

There is also some time involved in cleaning off support structures after the print.

But the basic material cost is low.

Thanks for this info. It's exactly what I was looking for. Just a general idea. Thanks to @TREX , my son now REALLY thinks we should get a printer. $28 for at least 100 figures doesn't seem like a big loss in learning curve start-up. $0.25 and a couple hours is all I'm losing in a failed test I guess. My worry was actually how much money would I waste trying to get good at this. I don't think I'd be creating my own models anytime soon so I'd be using models I could find around.

And it looks like if I get the same model as someone else I should just be able to use their settings right?