Public Design Workshop

[tcglkn]

Yep, no problem. That system is just meant to reward people who are active in the group so we gotta make sure you're willing to help out before we reward you.

I just don't see how this guy would be worth twice as much as our two Doc Ock designs since it's clearly the same character from an alt universe.

[MrNobody]

Yeah, I agree with Tickle, on both the 5 space range and the points.

One thing I like to do with alternate designs of characters is kind of echo the original one. Doc Ock I's big deals are the 4 attacks and the Cyber Claw effect. So would something like this be cool?

RANGE = 1

OCTOPUS TENTACLES SPECIAL ATTACK
Range 2. Attack 3.
After attacking with this special attack, you may attack 3 additional times. After each attack, if you inflicted 1 or more wounds, you may move the defending figure up to 1 space. Figures moved by Octopus Tentacles Special Attack must end their move closer to the Octopus than they were before moving, do not take any leaving engagement attacks, and take any falling damage that applies.

GRIP OF THE OCTOPUS
If the Octopus rolls a skull against a small or medium figure leaving an engagement with him, that figure may not leave the engagement with the Octopus this turn.

OIL SPEW 11

This is just a suggestion of course, and if you don't like it that's totally fine. Just keeps the same feel that you're going for while also kind of echoing Doc Ock I.

[AlexH12]

Originally Posted by MrNobody

Yeah, I agree with Tickle, on both the 5 space range and the points.

One thing I like to do with alternate designs of characters is kind of echo the original one. Doc Ock I's big deals are the 4 attacks and the Cyber Claw effect. So would something like this be cool?

This is just a suggestion of course, and if you don't like it that's totally fine. Just keeps the same feel that you're going for while also kind of echoing Doc Ock I.

I like the grip of the octopus change, but I don't really want to go for an echo of Doc Ock I. Although this is technically an alternate version of Doc Ock, I would like my unit to be different because I feel it should be more than a thematic change, but also a change to how playing with the unit feels when compared to Doc Ock.

[Yodaking]

FYI on custom figures, we now require the figure to be completed and approved before starting up a design thread. Had some early issues after relaxing the rules on figures with not being able to get mini pics for the card when the time came, so we just try to avoid that by requiring mini's be done ahead of time. So if you were thinking about making any changes to that mini (like giving him some arms since he's in a straight jacket currently), start working on it sooner than later. It's been the hold up for my own T-800 designs, I ordered the minis we settled on for the custom jobs but them my silver paint needed to be replaced and I haven't been able to head to the store for it. I should be getting some silver paint this week though, so hopefully you'll see the T-800's in the PT thread this Summer.

[AlexH12]

I'm not completely set on the mini I have on the post. I'm considering just repainting a Doc Ock heroclix instead.


Possibly this figure, I'd think it would be easier to work with maybe.

[tcglkn]

Also don’t mind just using the figure you suggested before with no mod. His arms are just crossed.

[Yodaking]

I like the look of the fleshy octopus arms in the first option. Seems to match well with that comic art you posted. The straight jacket just looks a little weird to me, so I'd try to do something with it personally. Even if it's just paint added. If I'm the only one that feels that way though, you could get it approved as is. I think that is an old Horrorclix figure, if so those have been getting harder and harder to find so consider buying it sooner than later if you don't currently have him in hand. We'll need figure pics for the card.

[Dr. Jekyll]

NAME = SILVER SURFER
SECRET IDENTITY = NORRIN RADD

SPECIES = ZENN-LAVIAN
UNIQUENESS = UNIQUE HERO
CLASS = SAVIOR
PERSONALITY = TORMENTED

SIZE/HEIGHT = MEDIUM 5

LIFE = 6

MOVE = 8
RANGE = 5
ATTACK = 6
DEFENSE = 6

POINTS = 350

BRING BALANCE
After revealing an Order Marker and before taking a turn with Silver Surfer, choose a figure within 8 clear sight spaces and roll the 20-sided die.
If you roll 1-15 roll 1 unblockable attack die against the chosen figure.
If you roll 15-18 the chosen figure and Silver Surfer receive 1 Wound Marker.
If you roll 19-20 destroy Silver Surfer and the chosen figure.
Silver Surfer may use Bring Balance special power once per round.

TO ME MY BOARD
When Silver Surfer defends against a normal or special attack and at least 2 blanks are rolled, Silver Surfer takes no damage and can move up to 4 spaces.

STEALTH FLYING
When Silver Surfer starts to fly, if he is engaged, he will not take any leaving engagement attacks.

SUPER STRENGTH
FLYING

I couldn't sleep last night after reading this 5 part comic. Thought I'd give him a shot.

[AlexH12]

Originally Posted by Yodaking

I like the look of the fleshy octopus arms in the first option. Seems to match well with that comic art you posted. The straight jacket just looks a little weird to me, so I'd try to do something with it personally. Even if it's just paint added. If I'm the only one that feels that way though, you could get it approved as is. I think that is an old Horrorclix figure, if so those have been getting harder and harder to find so consider buying it sooner than later if you don't currently have him in hand. We'll need figure pics for the card.

Do you recommend any paints or brushes for repainting the figure? I've never done something like this before and I'm not sure if I should use cheaper, craft paints or paints specifically for miniatures.

[IAmBatman]

Another Silver Surfer would be cool.

Bring Balance needs to specify the timing. WHEN do you roll the D20 for it? Also, for the 1-15, are you rolling that unblockable attack die against the chosen figure? Or just rolling it for funsies?

[Yodaking]

Originally Posted by AlexH12

Do you recommend any paints or brushes for repainting the figure? I've never done something like this before and I'm not sure if I should use cheaper, craft paints or paints specifically for miniatures.

I personally only use the cheaper craft paints when painting terrain or other less important stuff. I buy the better paints for miniature painting. I've used model railroad paints, GW paints, & Reaper miniature paints. Just make sure you use water based paints and not the oil based ones.



I've found that buying a package of the cheap brushes seems to work just as well as the expensive ones though, you just need to replace them more often. I buy a 5 pack of different sizes, then you have some options and can use what works best for you at that moment. Small brushes for minis, larger brushes for terrain.



Painting is not as hard as it may seem. Many cool effects are achieved though simple techniques like applying a wash or dry brushing (there are videos on that, just be warned that dry brushing tends to ruin the brush you use so I have one specific brush set aside for doing that). You can also just keep it real simple as well. The less details you have to paint the quicker and easier it goes, so don't grab the most highly detailed figure you can find for your first attempt.

[reverie]

On one hand I wouldn't recommend investing much in paints and brushes if it's not something you're seriously interested in (why spend a lot of money to repaint one figure?) On the other hand, it is worth noting that quality paints and brushes do make the process easier and more pleasant.

For what it's worth my favorite miniature paint line is Vallejo Model Color (as opposed to Vallejo Game Color). I have also tried GW and Army Painter. They're all a step up from craft paints, which I use for terrain and certain other projects as Yodaking described. The main difference between craft paint and miniature paint is the pigment content. Craft paint has less pigment so more coats are required for good coverage.

For brushes I upgraded to Winsor & Newton Series 7 #0 and #1 brushes. I like them a lot better than cheap brushes and try to take good care of them.

If you just want to try one repaint, go with cheap supplies. Just keep in mind it's an easier process with better supplies and upgrade if it's something you think you want to keep up with.