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#61
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Re: Index of Classic Heroscape .stl files
I can see em now. They look great WK. Thanks flash. I never shot pics of the zetacron before bringing it down to the monthly.
Check out my ebay where you can find my custom dice trays and dicetowers: https://www.ebay.com/usr/captainamazing_jerdo |
#62
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Re: Index of Classic Heroscape .stl files
I know it’s different for every printer and different materials, but in general what are your settings when printing figures for HS? Nothing too specific but do you have better success with slower or faster print speed, smaller or larger layer size, hotter or cooler temperatures. Things like that. I tried to print a figure as my test print, but none of them were very stable. I think I’m gonna step back and try stuff like a calibration cube, benchy, a temp tower. Try to figure out how to use it. But I’m curious what works for people here.
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#63
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Re: Index of Classic Heroscape .stl files
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Check out my ebay where you can find my custom dice trays and dicetowers: https://www.ebay.com/usr/captainamazing_jerdo |
#64
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Re: Index of Classic Heroscape .stl files
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I know it’s tough to make suggestions considering all the variables, but there are no groups specifically for printing Heroscape minis with an Ender 3. The Ender 3 group and 3d mini printing group are good, but my figures keep breaking at the feet and ankles. Was hoping if I could take the knowledge from those other groups and try to combine it with knowledge from a HS group I could improve. |
#65
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Re: Index of Classic Heroscape .stl files
If you want more durable minis, infill will matter. If they are at a higher % they will have more strength, but will take longer to make and use more material. The more infill will help with quality as well because the layers will have more to build on top of. Speed can effect quality as well. I run mine 3x faster with custom settings than the standard stock setting for all bigger stuff I make because it cuts down print time tremendously. When doing really small miniatures slowing it down can help. How I got where I am is I used settings that were great then slowly sped different parts up to cut 1/3 off my time. Above that on my machine made a difference in quality.
Check out my ebay where you can find my custom dice trays and dicetowers: https://www.ebay.com/usr/captainamazing_jerdo |
#66
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Re: Index of Classic Heroscape .stl files
My friend got an Ender 3. The shallow hex had a rough top, which is the base when printing. Is there a way to smooth that out?
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#67
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Re: Index of Classic Heroscape .stl files
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- For filament, I like to use white PLA+ filament from eSun. It prints really well for me, sticks to the bed, and has good detail. It's harder to finish than ABS because you can't use acetone, but I clean things up with a solder tool. - I keep the fan on full speed 100% all the time. This cools the filament as soon as it is laid down and makes it stay in place. - I keep the nozzle temperatures low--usually 180-190C for the PLA+. That tends to prevent oozing, and it brings out more detail. - For high detail, I set the diameter of the filament to 2.85mm (instead of the default of 3mm) and set the extrusion multiplier to 1. - I have an E3D v6 hot end with a .4mm nozzle. To prevent oozing, I set retract 2mm to 4mm and Wipe While Retracting. - I keep my print speed about 50mm when I want more detail. - I get better quality at .1 to .15mm layer height, but it's very slow and sometimes doesn't print well in places. Usually I use .3mm layer height and it's good enough for most of my prints. - When printing a figure, especially one holding up a sword or staff, I print 2 figures at the same time. This give the filament at the top time to cool as the nozzle moves to the 2nd figure. If I don't do that, thin objects such as swords will often print out deformed because the nozzle temperature melts the layers underneath. - I rarely use slicer-generated supports. Instead, I make my own supports--usually .05mm cylinders from the base to an arm, or a shield, or a gun. They are easier to cut off later. I only use them on overhangs less than about 25 degrees. If I have a long horizontal section (like a zombie arm) I'll put more than 1 support, separated about .25 inches apart. Closer together is not needed. Farther apart will lead to sagging strings in the first bridge layer. |
#68
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Re: Index of Classic Heroscape .stl files
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1) Increase the nozzle temperature a little, maybe 5 or 10 degrees C. Hotter filament sticks better to itself. 2) Increase the extrusion multiplier for the filament. It will add a little more filament as it's printing. You'll lose a little resolution on your figures, but the legs will be stronger. It could be infill %, but legs are pretty small, without much infill, so more infill won't help much. But you can make it 100% and see if it helps. |
#69
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Re: Index of Classic Heroscape .stl files
That’s all very helpful, thank you. I was using siepie’s profile from reddit, and it seems crazy slow and doesn’t seem to work for 28mm minis, I think some parts are too small. Good to see you’re getting decent results with a faster print time and larger layers.
I think temperature might be my key issue here, based on what you wrote and what I read elsewhere. I’m gonna try increasing the heat and printing more than one figure, let’s see how that goes. Thanks |
#70
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Re: Index of Classic Heroscape .stl files
White knight or anyone else,
I had the obsidian guards for heroscape but I never was able to get the granite guardians. I have printed out the one granite guardian and it looked amazing, but I would really like to be able to print and paint up a whole squad of the granite guardians. Can you guys try to get the other two models scanned as soon as you can? Thank you, Duljen Mercy is something the weak beg for and the strong lack. |
#71
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Re: Index of Classic Heroscape .stl files
BTW I think my x belt was too loose. I tightened it a bit and it’s already so much better. I’ll share my results if they’re not worthless.
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#72
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Re: Index of Classic Heroscape .stl files
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