|
Custom Terrain & Obstacles For Custom terrain, buildings, and other misc. obstacles |
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Codo's Custom Terrain Building/Tutorials [Lava Field]
OK, I've got to jump in here. First, I want to thank Grishnakh. His excellent tutorials got me started on the whole terrain modding thing. I've done almost an entire master set based on his guidelines. That being said...I think his terrain is great...but I'm a bit of a do-it-yourselfer, so I thought...what could I come up with on my own. So, for my very first terrain post, may I present LAVA field.
Making this was pretty easy. The first pre-requisite skill is...go read Grishnak's terrain tutorial. It provides an excellent basis for doing your own terrain. Materials used: Tamiya Acrylic X-6 Orange (Found at many R/C hobby stores) Yellow artist/caligraphy ink Orange artist/caligraphy ink Water Glue Red acrylic paint that is a close match for the lava field red. Soft Black colored acrylic paint Gale Force 9 Fine Basing Grit Gale Force 9 Rocky Basing Grit White Glue Dark to Medium Gray Acrylic Paint I'd like to extend thanks to the great folks at Gale Force 9. I talked to their terrain guy at GenCon because I was stumped about what to do for my lava field. I had tried a couple of things from the train store but hated what I turned out. After talking to this guy...well...his advice started me down the road to what you see here.
In the end, I was extremely happy with the outcome here. I have what I feel is some beatiful lava field areas for my map now. I'm still debating on whether or not I'm going to try some sort of color wash on the hex edges, so I'm going to leave that alone for the moment. One caveat about the ink paint combo. If you have to paint over an inked area, you will probably need to paint twice. I noticed that the ink seems to bleed through the paint as it dries...and not in a very attractive manner. Well, that's it for my first post. My next post will be showcasing an advanced version of rocky terrain using the Gale Force 9 basing grits. Codo Never argue with an idiot. They will drag you down to their level and beat you with experience. |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
Cool terrain
|
#3
|
||||
|
||||
nice
DeadEye |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
Thanks for sharing Codo. My attempts at modded lava stink, but yours are wonderful. Very cool.
|
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Those look awesome Codo and welcome to the boards!
I only have one question - how much does grit generally cost? I'm more the "mod on a budget" guy as the cost of materials can start to stack up after a couple of master sets. Did you buy it at a hobby store or a GW? I tried a few hexes the other day (Only just picked up my first lava set) and could only think of painting it: I'll be watching for when you upload your rock mods.... |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Nicely done, very detailed. Out of my range for ability.
|
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Renquist:
I bought the basing grit directly from GF9 at GenCon. The grit packs were $4 each.... so not too bad. The nice part is, they come in a re-usable plastic container. I'm sure there is some other material you can use. Kitty litter might work as long as you prep it correctly to deal with absorption. Maybe for true realism, you could get a bag of landscaping pumice and breaking it into smaller pieces. Not sure if that would work, but it could be interesting to try. As far as other costs... The taimya orange is just one I picked out at the hobby store. I'm sure any suitable orange paint could be used. The paints I used are the basic acrylic paints available at many hobby stores and WalMart (The dark grey I used I just got for $0.44 from my local walmart!) These paints are so much cheaper than gamestore paints. For miniatures, I suppose game store paints are good...but this is terrain! You're going to use a lot...buy in bulk! The ink is possibly the only piece that might cost you a bit more. I spent $25 on the ink set I bought. I got 10 colors out of that pack. The really good news is that a little ink goes a looong especially when mixed with the distilled water. I found that straight ink sets a little too thick for me and starts to hide the orange paint. That's why I originally cut it with the yellow ink. I still wasn't happy with the look, so that's when I added in some water and was pleased with that result. Ted: Quote:
What? Aw c'mon, that's the best part, I bet I could get my 7 year old to make one of these. The more complex/detailed parts could be skipped and I bet it would look fine. The dremel use on the divots can probably be skipped. If you do that, I'd just make sure to try to keep too much of the orange wash from pooling in there. The drybrush at the end could be skipped as well. It doesn't look too bad that way. I just like the dry brush because it brings out the detail a little better and softend up the black a little further. Maybe you could just use an extremely dark grey instead of my soft black choice for painting the stone.... Never argue with an idiot. They will drag you down to their level and beat you with experience. |
#8
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Another trick that I've seen used for model railroading is to mix up a batch of plaster of paris and pour it into a simple block mold, then after it cures completely go at it with a hammer or mallet to break it down into appropriately-sized pieces. You'd still have a porosity problem unless you sealed it before painting, though. |
|
|