Painting Figures

['Scaper94]

This is probably a question, and I couldn't find it when I searched. Anyway, what kind of paint should I use to repaint figures? I have
water-base acrylic paint, would that work?

Thanks!

[GreyOwl]

Yes, acrylic is the way to go. Enamel paints won't dry on that kind of plastic (I'm assuming you're painting official HS figures) and will stay tacky. Some of the modeling paints are really good quality, like Testors ModelMasters or Tamiya. Cheaper alternatives like ones found at Wal-Mart will also work, but will be much more likely to chip over time. In either case, seal with an acrylic sealer once the paint has cured for at least 24 hours.

[Raudulfr Shieldcrusher]

I use Apple Barrel and Ceramcoat both found at Michael's. Like GreyOwl said, seal the figures after you paint them. I use FolkArt Lacquer Matte Finish as it seems really close to the finish of original Heroscape figures.

[GreyOwl]

The sealer I've used is a spray can at Wal-Mart, with a generic name. Something like "Acrylic Sealer". It's $2-3 for a full size spray can and will last you for probably a hundred figures. It works pretty well, though I don't know if it looks as close to the official HS finish as the FolkArt Lacquer.

['Scaper94]

The sealer I'm going to use is paint-on. It's called Delta Ceramcoat Gloss Interior Varnish. Will that work?

[SuperflyTNT]

Krylon Crystal Clear is the best, but remember to allow your fig to dry at least a day or it may cause perma-tack where your figure is indefinately sticky. Also be sure to use water-based acrylic like "Folk Art" or "Apple Barrel" - enamels rarely dry completely this time of year.
PS - The Delta stuff looks "frosty" half the time. Use the Krylon Crystal Clear - it comes in Matte, Satin, or Gloss. I prefer the Satin, but that's just me.

[GreyOwl]

Originally Posted by 'Scaper94

The sealer I'm going to use is paint-on. It's called Delta Ceramcoat Gloss Interior Varnish. Will that work?

I've never used that brand so I can't say for sure, but a couple of things stick out to me. The use of the word "Interior" makes it sound like a home improvement product rather than a modeling/hobby product. That might mean it won't work as well for plastics, but then again it might. The gloss might be too shiny for HS figures - it will leave it with an almost "wet" look. And varnish isn't the same thing as sealant. Most varnishes are enamel and you want to use an acrylic sealent. I'd recommend you try it on a test sample before using it on an actual custom.

As far as enamel paints not drying, it's not so much to do with time of year but the type of plastic you put it on. It is designed for styrene plastics, like plastic models. Most toys like miniatures and action figures are made from PVC plastics, which are more porous and softer. Enamel paints rely on a chemical reaction between several components and the air in order to dry. The softer plastic absorbs one of those components and thus prevents it from mixing with the other chemical components, which will keep it from ever drying. Acrylic paints, by contrast, dry as the water content in them evaporates, so those will dry just fine regardless.

[SuperflyTNT]

The plastics bit is true, but humidity and how well you mix the enamels before use play crucial roles...I've lived in PA, CA, OR, TX, and KY, and the humidity makes a huge difference.

[GreyOwl]

True, I just meant that weather conditions won't make it dry if you're using the wrong paint on the wrong plastic, no matter what. The right paint on the right plastic can still be affected by weather conditions, though.

[ElvenEnvy]

Rather than make my own thread...

What would you use on a metal figure?
The one I'm looking at is an alloy of some sort I think. Would the Apple Barrel and similiar brands I use on plastic figures do the the trick or no?

[Raudulfr Shieldcrusher]

I treat plastic figures and metal figures the same.

['Scaper94]

Another question: How do you swap a figure's arm(s) with another figure's?