Index of Classic Heroscape .stl files

[Guillermo-Tell]

Originally Posted by White Knight

So miniatures look better with a .2mm nozzle?

I found this interesting video about the topic:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PuPaQznW8T0

It comes with a new profile too!

[shaolin]

Originally Posted by White Knight

So miniatures look better with a .2mm nozzle?

Depends on the stl, really. Garbage in, garbage out in some cases. But I was having a problem with a Han Solo I made. The gun walls were too thin, and Cura wouldn’t even slice them properly. Had to use the nozzle for that. And if you get a really high detail stl and you want to see each individual chain link in the armor or something along those lines, the .2mm would be able to print all of the finer details. It probably wouldn’t make much difference printing Benchy or something basic like that.

@Guillermo-Tell I think that answers your question too

[robbdaman]

I have a little down time at work so I've been seeing what various 3D printing sites can do with some of the files. It's interesting but also seems many of them can't handle either the size of the miniatures or the way they are supported. Shapeways just can't print anything smaller than Gurei-Oni it seems. I did laugh at them when they told me the Fen Hydra would only be able to be done in metal like bronze, brass, etc. Again this was more of an experiment, I will be getting my own 3D printer in the future.

[TREX]

@whiteknight , do you think that light box I purchased and linked above would work well for photographing minis for stls? I'm supposed to get it tomorrow. I'm going to see about getting or making a turntable to sit in the bottom, and I'll be setting my camera, or phone up next to it on a tripod. I did this also for photographing the 1000+ miniatures I've painted that I have at my house.

[White Knight]

Originally Posted by TREX

@whiteknight , do you think that light box I purchased and linked above would work well for photographing minis for stls? I'm supposed to get it tomorrow. I'm going to see about getting or making a turntable to sit in the bottom, and I'll be setting my camera, or phone up next to it on a tripod. I did this also for photographing the 1000+ miniatures I've painted that I have at my house.

It should work. It uses LEDs similar to mine, and the backdrop looks brighter than mine which will help with overall lighting.

Some notes:
- The LEDs will cause shiny spots. You'll want to use the matte spray to get the best results.

- I've heard you can get good scans of a mini without any background (see here), but I've never tried it and don't know if it will work with 3DF Zephyr

- Otherwise, your turntable will need a print on it to give the photogrammetry program background references. Mine needed walls so that the figure is entirely within the background.

[TREX]

Originally Posted by White Knight

It should work. It uses LEDs similar to mine, and the backdrop looks brighter than mine which will help with overall lighting.

Some notes:
- The LEDs will cause shiny spots. You'll want to use the matte spray to get the best results.

- I've heard you can get good scans of a mini without any background (see here), but I've never tried it and don't know if it will work with 3DF Zephyr

- Otherwise, your turntable will need a print on it to give the photogrammetry program background references. Mine needed walls so that the figure is entirely within the background.

Cool. Ill probably get a chance to mess with it a little today if it arrives as scheduled. Ill probably work up a patterned backdrop into an attachment for the turntable. I plan on scanning much more than just HS minis on the thing. I have some really great expensive minis that would be neat to make copies of. Im going to look up some turntables to see if they are cheaper and less time consuming than making one.

[TREX]

I found a pretty cool looking turntable on thingiverse Im going to print out to go with my lightbox. I figured Id share a link here for others to try it.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3723618

I also just picked up this cheaper option on amazon. I figured Id give it a shot instead of fiddling with the other one for the price.
http://https://www.amazon.com/Displa.../dp/B072XJ55DG

[TREX]

@White Knight , So I've done a bit of learning and fiddling with blender and got re-excited about these. That combined with me converting my Heroscape Collection into my Heroscape Skirmish Assault format with some really fun an easy tricks on my latest variant of accessories for it. After messing with some of your matte files, I finally figured the easiest way to remove them from the bases you had on there. DUH! it was so easy once I figured it out. I was trying to delete all the individual vertices. When I could have just separated the mesh parts. I should be getting my turntable by tuesday to go with my light box that I have. I've still got to mess with a few things for the box to get it optimal I think. Me and my brother are for sure going to help out with this project once everything comes together. I will probably start with the figures I'm wanting multiples of the most. Another few things I like about printing the figures separate from the bases are:
1. Pulling supports from the bottoms of the models is easier without the base attached.
2. The base can be spray painted brown separately and have a sticker added to it.
3. The model can be printed at a smaller layer height giving a better print for the model itself without having to do the same for the base. I generally print all my scape bases at .2 layer height and they are made quickly and printed upside down so there isn't extra support needed on the base. Where as the model is printed anywhere from a .06-.1 layer height and looks great.
4. Printing the models separate from the bases lets you resize them into giant or tiny models of the same sculpt without producing weird sized bases to go with them. I personally would think it very fun to make some oversized or undersized versions of some of the monsters. I'm looking a dragons, ogres, trolls, Hydras, yetis, etc.

I'd be very curious what others think about my little list, and if they have any ideas to add to it.

[White Knight]

Originally Posted by TREX

@White Knight , So I've done a bit of learning and fiddling with blender and got re-excited about these. That combined with me converting my Heroscape Collection into my Heroscape Skirmish Assault format with some really fun an easy tricks on my latest variant of accessories for it. After messing with some of your matte files, I finally figured the easiest way to remove them from the bases you had on there. DUH! it was so easy once I figured it out. I was trying to delete all the individual vertices. When I could have just separated the mesh parts. I should be getting my turntable by tuesday to go with my light box that I have. I've still got to mess with a few things for the box to get it optimal I think. Me and my brother are for sure going to help out with this project once everything comes together. I will probably start with the figures I'm wanting multiples of the most. Another few things I like about printing the figures separate from the bases are:
1. Pulling supports from the bottoms of the models is easier without the base attached.
2. The base can be spray painted brown separately and have a sticker added to it.
3. The model can be printed at a smaller layer height giving a better print for the model itself without having to do the same for the base. I generally print all my scape bases at .2 layer height and they are made quickly and printed upside down so there isn't extra support needed on the base. Where as the model is printed anywhere from a .06-.1 layer height and looks great.
4. Printing the models separate from the bases lets you resize them into giant or tiny models of the same sculpt without producing weird sized bases to go with them. I personally would think it very fun to make some oversized or undersized versions of some of the monsters. I'm looking a dragons, ogres, trolls, Hydras, yetis, etc.

I'd be very curious what others think about my little list, and if they have any ideas to add to it.

First of all, the easiest way in Blender to remove bases is to go into edit mode, select one of the base vertices, and hit ctrl-L. That will select the whole base. Then just delete it.

Also note that my new bases are standard Heroscape thin bases.

Printing with bases makes quick and easy models--no need to print separate bases and stickers, no need to attach the model to a base.

However, I DO print figures without bases if I want them to look official. When I do that, I'll add some posts on the bottom of the figure's feet to weld into holes in a separately printed base (printed with brown PLA with a sticker attached with Modge Podge).

The bases are useful when I first scan the figure. I'll use the base in Blender to scale the figure to the correct size.



If most people prefer the model without a base, I won't add the bases from now on. I just don't want to upload both models.

[TREX]

Originally Posted by White Knight

First of all, the easiest way in Blender to remove bases is to go into edit mode, select one of the base vertices, and hit ctrl-L. That will select the whole base. Then just delete it.

Also note that my new bases are standard Heroscape thin bases.

Printing with bases makes quick and easy models--no need to print separate bases and stickers, no need to attach the model to a base.

However, I DO print figures without bases if I want them to look official. When I do that, I'll add some posts on the bottom of the figure's feet to weld into holes in a separately printed base (printed with brown PLA with a sticker attached with Modge Podge).

The bases are useful when I first scan the figure. I'll use the base in Blender to scale the figure to the correct size.



If most people prefer the model without a base, I won't add the bases from now on. I just don't want to upload both models.

Thanks for the new hot key WK. No worries. Your work is awesome and very appreciated. Keep loading up your models as you do based, works for me to do them without the base for my various reasons but I can easily modify what I need to. I wouldnt expect you to load them all up again. I learned a few other tricks as well for simple fixes watching more youtube. The biggest reason I like them without the base is for support removal because of how my simpler to use slicer adds supports. I cant wait to start helping add more models to the ranks to help you out. I should have all my equipment in by tuesday to set it up. I have most of all the models as well so Ill probably try to do the ones I want and the ones you dont have first.

[TREX]

Thought that I'd add some pics to here since I don't do it too often. Oversized Quasatch Brutes.

[MementoMori]

What a great idea. I see lot's of options to enlarge: obsidian guards, elementals, vipers, spiders... even omnicrons.

A growth glyph?