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  #13  
Old May 11th, 2006, 12:42 AM
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Originally Posted by justncaseur1-2
how about if? when you landed on an ice space you had to stop like on water spaces, then the next move the hero or squad made, you rolled a d6 or a d10 to determin the amout of spaces you could then move, simulating how "easily" the squad moved over the ice. It would also be cool if someone would make a custom with the micro corp on skies.
i kinda like this. its a little rough but definately has some potential. as far as "slipping" rules go it's not a bad start. here's something off the top of my head...
when you land on ice, roll the defense die. if you roll a shield you slip and fall and end your turn. no shield, you continue your turn. i would imagine you would only have to roll the die once for each figure per turn.

i dont know if i would use this rule or not (i'm not as keen on a "slipping" rule as some others...i think the -1 attack/defend suits me fine), but of the ideas i seen, this is the one i like the best so far.

good work, justn.
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  #14  
Old May 11th, 2006, 07:01 AM
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Agent Minivann Agent Minivann is offline
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I like the idea of penalizing fliers. We'll just say it is one mother of a snow storm. Of course that would affect ranged units as well.

As for breaking through the ice, I think in the spirit of RPG's make a roll of 1 a death, as 20 is usually a critical/major success, and 1 is usually a fumble/major failure. Of course this IS just splitting hairs.
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  #15  
Old May 11th, 2006, 11:11 AM
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Im gonna haffta play Devils advocate on this one.

Having played the dzu tuh and the terrain a number of times I think the movement penelties and the glacier traverse are designed very well.

First off, I always use heavy snow and ice movements and my map is designed with the tundra ( 2 sets) as an integeral part.

This drasticly impedes normal figs movements. It costs 3 move just to climb up one snow tile, (1 for side the 2 for the top).

And quite often odd numbered movement figs acctually lose a move.

This combined with the Dzu tuhs quick movement can be quite an advantage (or disadvantage) depending on what side your on.

Second I believe the glacial traverse is designed NOT as a move enhancement but more like a flanking manuver.
You dont pass thru the glacier you "climb" over it, thus that is your move.

Example from a game I played.

If you set up the tundra with a "glacial pass" in other words a one hex wide path surrounded by glaciers, the Dzu tuh really come into play.

Finn trudging thru with some vikes ( veryy slowly I might add), you run up with one Dzu tuh to meet Finn while the other two glacial traverse and come in behind the vikes, and seal off any retreat.


Conversley Ive found the dzu tuh out off thier environment to be weak at best, often dying very quickly.

Anyway just my opinion, and happy to be part of the journey onward.

-Prime
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  #16  
Old May 11th, 2006, 11:17 AM
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Annerios Annerios is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Agent Minivann
As for breaking through the ice, I think in the spirit of RPG's make a roll of 1 a death, as 20 is usually a critical/major success, and 1 is usually a fumble/major failure. Of course this IS just splitting hairs.
I was going to mention that. Forget RPG's, what about the spirit of HS (Mitonsoul, molten lava)? :P

High rolls are for success; low rolls failure. It is better to keep it consistent.
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  #17  
Old May 11th, 2006, 09:43 PM
SyvarrisX SyvarrisX is offline
 
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I like the breaking through. I have always wanted Charos to have that happen to him...

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  #18  
Old May 12th, 2006, 03:37 PM
jakethesnake jakethesnake is offline
 
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These are interesting rules suggestions to say the least and one of the reasons I have painted a bunch of land tiles to represent light snow. I too enjoy playing on large maps and find it to be a bit tedious using the first 4 or 5 rounds positioning units. I currently don't own any Tundra sets yet, but having both light and heavy snow on the board should not only be visually appealing, but beneficial in speeding up movement. I would place the heavy snow at higher elevations or on the North side of a mountain where it is least likely to see sun. This allows players to avoid those areas or take the risk of moving up into higher elevations at a movement cost. The light snow with brown sides would border the heavy snow areas and make for a nice transition into grass or rocky areas. Figures could pass through the fringe without any movement penaltys. I really like the breaking ice rule and will probably incorporate that into our games.
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  #19  
Old May 12th, 2006, 04:05 PM
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Annerios Annerios is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jakethesnake
These are interesting rules suggestions to say the least and one of the reasons I have painted a bunch of land tiles to represent light snow.


I also have a Master set worth of of custom snow that I will use as "light snow". It will make those snow boards with the glaciers look more interesting.

I'll have to post some photos when I get my Tundra sets.
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  #20  
Old May 12th, 2006, 04:20 PM
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I still want a 7-hex water piece like that, Annerios. That wellspring looks so cool!

Newb.
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  #21  
Old May 12th, 2006, 05:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Annerios
Quote:
Originally Posted by jakethesnake
These are interesting rules suggestions to say the least and one of the reasons I have painted a bunch of land tiles to represent light snow.


I also have a Master set worth of of custom snow that I will use as "light snow". It will make those snow boards with the glaciers look more interesting.

I'll have to post some photos when I get my Tundra sets.
i was asking about this in another thread and people were being stupid and not giving me a straight answer. what kind of paint are you guys using to make your "light snow"? do you use a protective clear coat afterward. my friend and i were assuming that hasbro sprays the masterset tiles using a stencil. i imagine you used a brush. how does it wear? is there any tackiness to the touch? would someone who didn't know better think your light snow was stock?

by the way, thats a really cool map. what is the center of the water?
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  #22  
Old May 12th, 2006, 05:58 PM
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I just finished my snow Car, I will post a pic soon, I used enamel this time to really hold up and then clearcoated for protection. It looks really good, I went all white though.

EDIT THIS IS THE FIFTH TIME I HAVE EDITED THIS POST ONLY TO DISCOVER WHEN I SUBMIT THIS POST IT SAYS THAT ONLY I CAN EDIT MY POSTS. WELL IF I AM NOT ME THEN ME IS GONNA BE PISSED BECAUSE I AM WEARING ME'S FRIGGIN UNDERWEAR, AND YES NETHER I KNOW THIS IS ALL IN CAPS BECAUSE I AM ABOUT TO FREAKIN LOSE IT. THIS HAD BETTER GO THROUGH THIS TIME.

Alright back to business, Car for the fifth time now I will type this, I used an enamal spray on the first coat, I then used a brush to really get the tiles good, the third coat was a light spray to cover all brush marks and finally a thin clear coat. I would say it looks better than stock.
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  #23  
Old May 12th, 2006, 06:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skyknight

Alright back to business, Car for the fifth time now I will type this, I used an enamal spray on the first coat, I then used a brush to really get the tiles good, the third coat was a light spray to cover all brush marks and finally a thin clear coat. I would say it looks better than stock.
thanks for the details. sounds impressive.
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  #24  
Old May 12th, 2006, 08:25 PM
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Annerios Annerios is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caravaggio
i was asking about this in another thread and people were being stupid and not giving me a straight answer. what kind of paint are you guys using to make your "light snow"? do you use a protective clear coat afterward. my friend and i were assuming that hasbro sprays the masterset tiles using a stencil. i imagine you used a brush. how does it wear? is there any tackiness to the touch? would someone who didn't know better think your light snow was stock?

by the way, thats a really cool map. what is the center of the water?
I used a paint from the craft store (Michael's) specifically made for painting on plastic. It had better adhesion than the standard enamel paint.

Painting with a brush may be your first instinct, but it will be tediously slow. I used the kind of paint pads that you can commonly find at Lowes or Home Depot instead. I had just been in the midst of doing some major paint work on my home and was quite agile with them.

You just put a thin coat of paint on the pad and pass it over the hexes. The colored part is raised, so the paint (if you are careful) is applied only to the colored parts you need. You will mess up from time to time and need to wipe off some white paint from the brown, but it was much faster.
I gave it a couple passes and let it dry.

I then did some touchups with small brushes. Afterwards, I sprayed the hexes with a thin layer of dullcote from Testor's.

I did not want to paint the interlocking sides, because it will make the pieces hard to slide together and eventually you will begin scratching the paint off. The Hasbro pieces won't have that problem because they are completely molded in white plastic.

My light snow looks close to the Hasbro prototypes that were posted on their site last year. It also has not faded or chipped after many uses.

My group had guessed the rules for heavy snow correctly, so we have been playing with snow for a long time. The excitement in the Tundra sets for me will be in making complete snow environments and using the ice and glaciers.

The center water tile is a custom made 7 hex water piece.
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