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#1
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My new game table part 2.
A few months ago I posted my heroscape table we built. Here are some pics of some of the new features.
Overview Fold out tables for cards, order markers and rolling dices My custom blood token holders. Wall of characters AND ME! Last time I posted the way far from complete version. Several people asked me for directions on how to make the table. I cannot find the original schematic we drew up. But if anyone wants. I can take come measurements and post them. |
#2
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Re: My new game table part 2.
That is the raddest gaming table ever! Soon as my rep cannon fills up, I'll fire some your way.
SCAPE OR DIE! Great transactions with: Cavalier,Jim,rudyvalentine,Hilo Scaper,land.scape,Lord Pyre,Cosmo,Hogg,TheSilverSurfer,lefton4ya,Superfrog wargamingaddict87... |
#3
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Re: My new game table part 2.
That is freakin amazing. +rep
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#4
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Re: My new game table part 2.
Amazing table!!!
Wish I had that much room to scape. +rep DeadEye |
#5
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Re: My new game table part 2.
What a great table design. Functional, and looks good too. I for one am interested in the specs. [+ rep to you]
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#6
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Re: My new game table part 2.
Wow this guy is gonna be a rep cannon once he reaches the minimum number of posts.
Last edited by pti8; December 28th, 2008 at 12:55 AM. Reason: smilie |
#7
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Re: My new game table part 2.
That's just incredible. Please DO post the specs ... I can dream.
My Recent Plays: |
#8
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Re: My new game table part 2.
Ok before you begin.. this table is 10 ft across once the card tables are flipped up. if you don't have the room you will have to scale it down.
We used 2 @ 4x8 3/4 inch particle board for the table top. 8 2x4 2 4x4 8@ 8 inch lag bolts 1 protractor to measure angles. I cannot remember for sure but I think all the angles are 120 degrees. you will want to make sure by checking the angles off of one of the army cards. lay out 1 4x8 3/4 inch particle board. this will be 1/2 of the table top. if you are looking at an army card. fold it in 1/2 and you will get the idea. EVERY measurement is 14 inches and EVERY angle is 120 degrees. if you keep a card, protractor and straight edge nearby you can get it mapped out fairly easy. cut this piece and do the same with the other. take your 2x4 and cut them on a miter saw to the same lengths and screw them around the edge of the table. the left over 2x4's become supports in the middle of the table. you can run them across how ever you see fit. the 4x4's are the legs. use the 8 inch lag bolts to hold them in. The card tables are left over pieces from cutting the gaming table out. we used piano hinges to hold them to the table. The locking arms were a little harder to figure out. I cannot remember what they are called but Home Depot sells them in same isle as hinges and drawer handles. They look flimsy but can actually support quite a bit a weight. NOT A FAT CAT THOUGH.. (fold the card tables down when not in use) We used a 1x.5 board to encase the card tables. This keeps dice from flying all over the place. (cup holders are coming this week) The blood token holders are 1/2 in pvc pipe. I took it and put it on the table saw and sawed just a little bit off then entire side. then they just get cut into pieces that fit on the sides of the table. counter sink the top screw so its out of your way. Use a screw with a big head on it for the bottom so they dont fall out. I hope this helps you. If you have any more questions let me know. If done well. This table is PERFECT.. although it does limit the number of players you can have. In fact. I have so many people wanting to play on the weekends. I created a website that sends out an email that a new game has been scheduled. The players log into the site and join the game after 6 people have signed in the game is closed and players can then pick their teams right from the site. When they arrive to play. Their team is already laying on the table. |
#9
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Re: My new game table part 2.
Just for some quick stats on the games we play normally.
We have played a 7 person (one on each wing and 1 in the castle in the middle) 1200 point game. We usually play for killing points. You get the points of the card you knock out. This keeps the action going and keeps people from hiding in the corners. I think the day we played 1200 points it was the first to 2000 points collected wins. It took 6 hours. For now we have switched to playing rounds with around 800 points or so. Still playing for points killed. The player at the end of the last round with the most points killed wins. |
#10
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Re: My new game table part 2.
Here are some pics of us playing before the table was completed. This was the old map. Very nice map but hard to get around due to all the water.
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#12
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Re: My new game table part 2.
That is very cool. Thanks for the write-up on how to make it. Does it come apart or anything for easy transportation, or is it intended to stay in the one place?
Follow the adventures of Agent Minivann
http://agentminivann.blogspot.com/ http://opensourcevolleyball.blogspot.com/ |
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