Index of Classic Heroscape .stl files

[mac122]

Originally Posted by White Knight

For skinny figures like that I build my own simple tree supports (that I make in Blender). That's the only way I could get them printed. Then I use a hot tool to cut the trees in half and dykes to clean up each end. (If you go straight to dykes the dykes will force the two pieces apart and end up splitting the model.)

Did I upload my Gungan Rider model with supports?

A hot knife is on my list. What brand/model do you use?

You did post the rider with supports. The print looked awesome, once I scaled it properly. Again, my lack of patience and finesse (and a hot knife) sabotaged my efforts. I actually took that one off my list after finding some of the "official" ones on CoolStuffInc.

[White Knight]

Originally Posted by mac122

A hot knife is on my list. What brand/model do you use?

You did post the rider with supports. The print looked awesome, once I scaled it properly. Again, my lack of patience and finesse (and a hot knife) sabotaged my efforts. I actually took that one off my list after finding some of the "official" ones on CoolStuffInc.

30 Watt 5-In-1 Hobby Woodburner with 3 soldering tips, 4 woodburning tips, safety hanger and tool packed in carry case

[TREX]

I have both woodburning tools and soldering iron. I really like the ones that you can change the end out on with multiple tips. I use a fine pointy tip for cleaning up details and the flat edge one for smoothing round or big areas.

[mac122]

Originally Posted by White Knight

30 Watt 5-In-1 Hobby Woodburner with 3 soldering tips, 4 woodburning tips, safety hanger and tool packed in carry case

Ah, I was thinking of a "specialized" tool. I might have something like that. It might have some of the different tips, too. Thanks!

[shaolin]

Originally Posted by Arch-vile

I'm looking to get a 3D printer now. There's so many out there that I'm not sure where to start. White Knight, I believe I read that you have an Ender 3 - would you recommend that one? Amazon reviews seem to be solid but for all I know there may be better/easier ones.

I have an Ender 3. The build is key, if there is any wobble or anything off it will ruin the prints. It took me about a month to get the hang of using the printer and get the profile settings tuned correctly, but once you got it, you got it.

[Tornado]

What profile do you use shaolin?

[japes]

I also have an Ender 3. I'm still trying to figure out the best settings for small minis. They either turn out bad or it takes 8-10 hours per mini. I though I read WK has some coming out nice in less than an hour a piece so I'd love to hear those settings.

[TREX]

Originally Posted by japes

I also have an Ender 3. I'm still trying to figure out the best settings for small minis. They either turn out bad or it takes 8-10 hours per mini. I though I read WK has some coming out nice in less than an hour a piece so I'd love to hear those settings.

Ive been pumping out a bunch of great minis on my snapmaker and they only take about an hour or so each for regular sized 28mm dudes. The quality is great. Im creating starcraft and warcraft armies right now. Ive made 21 terran marines, jim raynor, tychus, 6 ghosts, 4 siege tanks, 11 protoss zealots, artanis, zeratul, a big grom hellscream, and 12 dwarven riflemen. Also made a giant beholder, and a few awesome giants. This is all in the last week. With minis that are small I like to make them pretty solid and the layer height needs to be at least 0.1 or finer. For medium to large minis I reduce the infill and go 0.15 to 0.2 layer height. The orientation of the minis on the printbed can save time and help with pulling supports and mini quality. If you can find minis that require less supports they can look nicer as well if possible. Also all the above minis were all done on the same roll of filament and Im not even through it yet.

[White Knight]

Originally Posted by japes

I also have an Ender 3. I'm still trying to figure out the best settings for small minis. They either turn out bad or it takes 8-10 hours per mini. I though I read WK has some coming out nice in less than an hour a piece so I'd love to hear those settings.

My CURA profile for minis is here:
WK CURA


It's the Fat Dragon Games CURA profile with maybe a few small tweaks. You might need to adjust temperatures for your filament.


Screenshots

[shaolin]

Originally Posted by Tornado

What profile do you use shaolin?

A custom one. I use matterhackers soft pla, too many breaks and crazy glue with regular pla. So my temp is a bit higher, 230 C, and print speed is 25mm/s. So the prints do take a few hours to finish. Also I don’t have retraction on, it causes clogging problems when you use softer material. And I use tree supports rather than the default support, I find I can clean it much easier. I’m on my phone now but can send you my profile with suggested tweaks for regular pla. You’re gonna have to tweak it as you print anyway. Use someone’s profile as a base but you’ll need to adjust based on your machine and material. A sturdy build and a level bed are the most important things though, you can clean up anything else after the print, hide imperfections with paint.

[Tornado]

Thanks. Trying to assemble as much info so I have some ideas as what to fiddle with.

[Guillermo-Tell]

Hi guys,
I've been following this thread for a while. Thank you very much for all your effort. I've tried to print some models but some reason Cura automatically scales them up 10000 times . I have no idea why this happens. Could you tell me the correct scale?
I've to say I'm a complete beginner in the 3D printing world so I'm having a lot of issues with my Ender 3.
Also, I think it'd be useful to have an alternative version of each model with the supports already implemented for FDM and resin printing. What do you think?
Thanks.