Getting Started with 3D Printing

[DragonSlayer2]

With the return of Heroscape and the availability of 3D printers I figured I would take a moment to write up a simple intro to 3D printing post. I'll try to cover the basics for both resin and FDM printing while trying not to get too deep into the techno mumbo jumbo. Over time hopefully this will become a very though starting point with useful tips, tricks and recommendations.

Over the years I've had a few FDM printers and DLP printers. My $0.02 is that FDM is better for larger less detailed items like terrain, DLP is better for things with higher detail like miniatures.

My printers

FDM
Solidoodle Press
Wanhao i3
Custom built i3 clone

Resin
Anycubic Photon S
Anycubic Mono X (4k)

Other printers Ive used/worked with

Creality 5 corexy
Anycubic Mega
Anycubic Photon
Ultimaker S3

Resin

DLP vs SLA
Resin printing has two major forms in the market right now which are Stereolithography (SLA) and Digital Light Processing (DLP). Both process work by curing light sensitive resin with a specific light wavelength. This is usually UV light around the 405nm wavelength. They differ due to their approach in how one controls the light source to cure the resin. SLA uses lasers to cure the resin one sweep at a time. Its resolution is defined by the focal point of the laser. This means you will have a higher print quality/resolution at the center of the build plate and decrease in resolution as it moves further away from its focal point. (You're splitting hairs over a few nanometers in difference between the focal point at the center of the build plate compared to the edges. Most people will never know/notice this) DLP on the other hand uses a projector to cure an entire layer and the resolution is defined based on its pixel/voxel resolution. Due to the pixels/voxel this is where SLA pulls ahead of some DLP printers. Since SLA does sweeping passes a round edge will always be round where with DLP you're drawing a circle with square boxes. On DLP machines with higher resolutions this isnt really noticeable but it may be something that could make or break something with tight tolerances.

SLA - Example Printers: Formlabs
I am sad to say I have no direct experience working with SLA machines. (they're somewhat cost prohibitive and usually geared towards businesses/prosumer) If anyone from the community has experience working with SLA machines please let me know and I can add your information to this section.


DLP - Example Printers: Anycubic, Elegoo, Phrozen
In the recent years resin 3D printing has become significantly more affordable to the average person. You can now get quality resin printers that are great for minis for sub $500, dare I say sub $200. I have personally owned the anycubic photon s and the mono x from them. I would highly recommend also getting a wash/cure station if you wish to venture into resin printing but it is not a requirement.

So you bought your first DLP printer. What's next?
· Download a slicer of choice (I use chitubox's free version)
· Unpack your printer and set it up!!!
· Don’t forget to level the bed, tighten down the screws and add resin to your vat
· Find a RERF file. Your printer should come with one but if it doesn’t there are a lot of good ones out there
· You want to print this first as you will need it to dial in your machines settings
· Most RERF files will print 8 different items with different setting
· Usually they start around a .8 second layer cure time and increase by about .4 seconds each
· Decide which RERF turned out best and adjust your settings accordingly
· Don't forget this can vary between resin and manufacturer. Make sure to keep a log for future reference
· Decide what you want to print first and pull it in to your slicer of choice
· Don’t forget about model overhangs. Add supports where needed
· Most software has an auto support feature but theyre not perfect so just double check your overhangs
· Slice the file and save it to your USB / send it over wifi to your printer if it supports it
· Wait patiently. 28mm height takes about 2-3hours to complete
· Remove the print from the bed, clean it, cure it and admire your printers hard work

Tips, Tricks, Recommendations & Things to Remember
· Recommend a well ventilated area. Resin can smell
· Recommend a wash/cure station
· If having issues with prints sticking to build plate re-level
· FEP is consumable and will need replacing

FDM - Example Printers: Creality, Ultimaker, Makerbot, Anycubic

Fused deposition modeling (FDM) was first brought into the spotlight by Makerbot and boy have FDM printers come a long way since then. These printers work by heating up polymer-based materials and extruding them onto a plate one layer at a time. Most common materials that people print with are ABS, PLA, and PETG (in my opinion). Every polymer has its own strengths/weaknesses and why you may or may not want to use them. I will not be getting into that as there is a lot of documentation on the internet that goes into great detail the pros/cons of them all. For the sake of 3D printing in the miniature realm Id suggest starting with PLA as it is the most user friendly from my experience.

So you bought an FDM printer. What's next?
· Download the slicer of your choice.
· I use simplify3D but they havent released an update in awhile so I am afraid they might be going out of business/not supporting newer machines. They do have some amazingly helpful documentation though for issues that you may encounter
· Unpack that printer!!!
· Build, level your bed and load up your filament
· Find a temperature calibration model to determine the best printing temperature for your filament
· Load the calibration model into your slicer, following the direction and print
· Don’t forget these setting can vary between color and manufacturer so it's a good idea to keep a log of this information.
· Now that you have an ideal printing temp for your filament go ahead and input that information into your slicer
· Now the fun begins! Go and grab the model you've been wanting to print, import it into your slicer, slice it and save the file to a usb/send it to your device over wifi
· Be patient. FDM printing is a slow process but super fun to watch
· Enjoy your model!!

Tips, Tricks, Recommendations & Things to Remember

· Look for a printer that has a flexible magnetic build plate
· Removing models from a flex plate is 10x easier
· Look for a printer that has a heated bed
· Helps prevent warping, especially on initial layers
· Look for a printer that has auto leveling
· Will make your printing experience better
· If you have issues with your initial layer sticking to the bed try adjusting your Z offset SLOWLY
· Too much offset and you'll drive your nozzle into your print bed and it's just not a good time

tldr:

If you want to make miniatures lean towards DLP printing.
If you want to make terrain lean towards FDM.
If you want to do both well lean towards a resin printer with a large build plate.

If using DLP your first print should be a RERF calibration and adjust your slicer settings
If using FDM your first print should be a temperature/bridge calibration model and adjust your slicer settings

Keep a log of your resin/filament and all associated slicer settings for future reference

I am sure there is a lot Ive missed/glossed over but hopefully this is a good starting point to build from

~DragonSlayer2