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Old October 22nd, 2008, 07:27 PM
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DrRansom DrRansom is offline
 
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Talking DrRansom Tutorial -=Wyvern Custom=-

[This used to by my Wyvern work in progess thread, I've altered it to be a tutorial on how to create a wyvern. [the tutorial is in brackets] Toss me any tips. Enjoy!]

So.. I was considering the dragon races and thought to myself, there's no Wyvern in this game. Then as I was considering how to make a custom wyvern I thought to myself. I have too many Mimrings.

[1. Take any fig you want to modify]
So, for starters, we all know Mimring:


[2. Figure out what you like about him and what you don't. Start chopping. Just realise that wherever you make a cut you will have to sculpt over the crease with greenstuff to hide the cut. And you will have to find a way to recreate whatever texture you use (scales, skin, etc) over that part. Also, carefully remove fig from base, i suggest using a pointy blunt poking device to pop the little plasitc bolt that holds the fig on, back through the base]

..well my Mimring got into a battle with a pair of pliers. The pliers won initiative, rolled all skulls and had a vorpal blade ta boot:


..so then I started glueing the thing back together:
[3. Do NOT just start haphazzardly glueing junk back together unless you want a serious headache later on. If it's a big fig, glue is NOT strong enough to hold it together. My solution, I created a psuedo skelleton in the following manner: a: cut a 1/2" piece of straight paper clip. (your rod) b: holding a sharp pin with pliars over a candle until red. c: insert hot pin into first section of the model you wish to join. (you will be creating two sockets this way.) Repeat the process until you have a socket in each section you wish to join. d: Insert rod into both sockets and adjust (clip with wire cutters) rod size and (additional pin melt) sockets until they are a good fit. e: Pose pieces until you are happy with how it will look. f: Apply superglue to each socket, insert rod and join sections. This alone will not be strong enough for your final use as a payable model but will work until you putty it.]


..I had in mind a magestic snake-like beast arching it's back with a frightning scream to the stars.:



It may not look awesome yet, but sit tight, it's getting better.





[4: What I do not have here is a picture of me applying green stuff putty into EVERY crack that I made. It's called "Plumber's Epoxy" at the hardware or hobby store or "Green stuff" at Game's Workshop. (hillarious pseudo-tutorial/infomercial for it can be seen here.) Eitherway it's a strip of yellow and blue clay. Pull off very small equal ammounts and make a little snake. Apply a little snakes all the way around a crack, smoothing it all round with a wet finger. Take your favorite sculptor's tool (or screw driver or toothpick) and fashion scales or skin or wounds or whatever area you've just patched is supposed to have. I had a very difficult time simmulating Mimrings scales (I wound up making compatible crisscross patterns that I tried uprasing on the corners) but found that the belly ribs were very simple (just mutiple horizonal indentations divididing a round neck section). Here's a neat tutorial on getting chainmail like detail from greenstuff. ]



[5. This is the fun part. As you put the thing back together, improvise. Note how I chopped off bits from his head and added new bits. Cutting off bits wass easy. Adding horns and features is as easy as applying putty, sticking bits (horns/wings from other things, toothpicks, etc) in the putty and modeling around it with your own textures. When the putty dries it is a strong adhesive.]



[6. Rebase the thing. I stuck rods into Mimrings feet as per above and let the rods dry. Make sure to use extra long length of paper clip sticking out of the feet, and here's why. Next I pulled the rods through new holes in the old Mimring base bent them backwards on the bottom of the base and played around with several different poses before finding a balanced one that I liked. I then glued it and puttied it into place on both sides (on top and underneith) of the base.]




[7. Once you are happy with all of your putty textures and base pose, allow the whole thing 24 hours to harden, then spray paint the entire thing with a flat black (or white depending on how you paint) enamel. It is important to use a flat enamel. It is strong and accepts paint well. On this model I did not use that and it cost me later on when I had to repaint sections that scrapped of. An alternative that I used (but did not like) is to us an Acryllic base and then put an enamel coat on when done. If you're careful during your painting this will be fine but results but carries no real benefit if you can avoid it. Allow your base coat to Dry completely.]

[8. Paint it!!! Start with your basic colors (blue wings and belly, green skin and scales, dark brown for teeth and horns, etc). Allow to dry. Go a color lighter or brighter on every raised bit (brighter green on edges and musles, brighter blue on raised parts of wing flaps, off white on teeth middles) Allow to dry. Go another color brighter or lighter with drybrushing techniques, allow to dry, do your dark ink washes to fill all the cracks with shadows (i did the steps of dry brushing and inking the wings in more layers than I can remember) allowing to dry COMPLETELY in between each layer. Repeat this process until the raised textures of your model (scales, muscles, teeth, etc.) stand out with a more 3-d illusion. Have your wife check your work (they see better, I swear.)]



[Notice the head. It started all black. The face got painted dark green, the mouth red, the teeth and horns brown and the chin blue. I then painted the teeth and horn tips biege, and dry brushed the whole face green (or gray on some scaley parts). Next I made a back ink wash (a little water with a touch of black paint) and allowed the black wash to fill all the cracks. Then I did a dry brush (which is a plain paint on the brush, wipe the paint off, swish the brush over the raised details) of the previous colors again. Next I did a very bright green dry brush to catch all the detail, painted the teeth tips and drybrushed to horn. Remember this key: ALLOW TO DRY in between each step. Don't be afraid to use crazy vivid colors for your final dry brush (test it first on something else). Those bright colors are like the sun gleaming off of something, great illusion.]



[Final steps, pictures to follow: Apply an Enamel Clear Satin finish (after experimenting this is by FAR the most official looking finish) and spiffy up your base to look like real terrain.]

Enjoy.

Last edited by DrRansom; April 8th, 2009 at 06:17 PM.
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  #2  
Old October 22nd, 2008, 07:42 PM
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Re: New Custom -=Wyvern (from Mimring parts)

Looks cool, can't wait to see it finished!
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  #3  
Old October 22nd, 2008, 07:59 PM
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Re: New Custom -=Wyvern (from Mimring parts)

I like the pose, please keep us apprised of your progress, looking good.

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Old October 22nd, 2008, 08:37 PM
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DrRansom DrRansom is offline
 
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Re: New Custom -=Wyvern (from Mimring parts)

Thanks guys! In a way I was going for a "calling rooster" pose only epic scale. I see Wyverns as a sort of Dire Chicken.

By way of update, those pictures were taken a few nights ago and tonight when I worked on it pieces just started falling off. It became apparant that even if I did reinforce all the joints with green stuff it would still be structurally weeker than I'd prefer.

..So I pulled a "weapon X" and gave it a metal skelleton. I lit a candle, got some pliers and wire cutters and some paper clips. Holding small bits of paper clipds over a flame to heat them I then inserted them into various key joints. For example one end of the rod went into the hip joint, the other went into the leg. If done right it just melts itself a little hole and then the melted plastic quickly hardens. It worked so well I only needed more superglue to hold the pose.

More pics pending.
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  #5  
Old October 29th, 2008, 05:46 PM
Jorundr Shieldcrusher Jorundr Shieldcrusher is offline
 
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Re: New Custom -=Wyvern (from Mimring parts)

I think that's a really good idea so keep us updated.

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  #6  
Old October 29th, 2008, 06:13 PM
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Re: New Custom -=Wyvern (from Mimring parts)

that sounds really great. i hope that i can see it at some tournaments or something. acually being played. that would be the best. i would still love to just see it though. keep up the good work.
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  #7  
Old October 29th, 2008, 07:53 PM
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Re: New Custom -=Wyvern (from Mimring parts)

Normally people don't let others play with customs in tournaments.
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Old November 3rd, 2008, 01:15 PM
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Re: New Custom -=Wyvern (from Mimring parts)

Quote:
Originally Posted by nicktheant View Post
Normally people don't let others play with customs in tournaments.
Wyvern vs. Joker.
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  #9  
Old November 3rd, 2008, 01:20 PM
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Re: New Custom -=Wyvern (from Mimring parts)

Quote:
Originally Posted by acer1000 View Post
that sounds really great. i hope that i can see it at some tournaments or something. acually being played. that would be the best. i would still love to just see it though. keep up the good work.
Quote:
Originally Posted by nicktheant View Post
Normally people don't let others play with customs in tournaments.
Normally, people use capital letters at the beggining of a sentence.
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Old November 3rd, 2008, 04:17 PM
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Re: New Custom -=Wyvern (from Mimring parts)

Haha good one Cav.

Last edited by nicktheant; November 3rd, 2008 at 04:24 PM.
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Old November 3rd, 2008, 05:14 PM
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DrRansom DrRansom is offline
 
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Re: New Custom -=Wyvern (from Mimring parts)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lord Pyre View Post
Wyvern vs. Joker.
That would be fun to see.

Quote:
Originally Posted by acer1000 View Post
that sounds really great. i hope that i can see it at some tournaments or something. acually being played. that would be the best. i would still love to just see it though. keep up the good work.
Thanks man! Yeah my friends let me play with customs models for official pieces sometimes. It's a nice switchup. I haven't ever created a custom card yet though. I'm not a photoshop wiz like some. But maybe I will for this one..
I was thinking "Frightening Shriek" for a special, that has the chance of removing markers from opponents figures or something.

Anyway, I have the thing almost completely assembled. I put wired through allot of it and "green stuff" modled the bottom half. I couldn't match the scales so I went with a slightly different body texture in parts, I've got the belly looking pretty nice though.

I got a few nice pictures of me inserting rods into the neck. I'll post more pics later on.

Peace.
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Old November 30th, 2008, 02:37 PM
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Re: -=Wyvern Custom=- Help me choose a color! Finished Build

Allright, quick update.. superglue is not the be all/end all of adhesives, especially when it comes to plastics. After the thing fell apart enough times to make a grown man cry, I inserted a metal skeleton and cemented every crack with green stuff. Seems to have been very effective in strengthening it as well as giving me a medium with which to sculpt additional features. I was happy enough after it all dried to proceed with a base coat of black to prepare for the repaint. Pics were added to the first page. Any suggestions as to the color?
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