Coming Soon: 6 Player Epic Heroscape Campaigns
Posted August 16th, 2008 at 11:13 AM by NecroBlade
Updated June 15th, 2009 at 05:19 PM by NecroBlade
Updated June 15th, 2009 at 05:19 PM by NecroBlade
I've been slowly updating this blog for some time, but I figured I'd put it in a thread since it would likely get more views. I'll update this post and post a reply to let you know whenever I update the blog (http://www.heroscapers.com/community...ad.php?t=21893).
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Like Heroscape? (Duh.) Like Warcraft, Starcraft, Age of Empires, or Empire Earth? Want to play both in the same game?
About a week ago, my friends were over for some Heroscape, and after a game or two decided they wanted to figure out how to turn it into a world-wide, turn-based Risk-like game. So just about every day since then we've been brainstorming and playtesting and I've gotta say it's turning into something really fun and I can't wait to play it every day.
My friends and I all know the rules, but we have yet to write them down. We will do so soon, though, and I will post them here when they're ready. Just know that it will require a lot of terrain, a good number of figures, and the space for all of it...my entire living room is now our War Room.
You need at least 3 maps set up at once: the World Map, which shows the terrain, General, and special* locations; the Territory Map, which shows which section of the world each player has conquered; and the Battle Map, which is to be set up for each skirmish.
*Gold mines and big monster battles for example, to be explained.
The World Map and Territory Map are each large hexes 8 spaces long on a side. You will need 6 24-hex, 6 2-hex, 6 1-hex, and 1 7-hex to build each. I will try to VirtualScape them soon. Each player chooses a glyph to be placed on one of the corners to represent his/her headquarters. Place one copy of each glyph on the same corner of the World Map and the Territory Map to keep them oriented and relative to each other.
For the World Map, we recommend using grass tiles for the base, the whole big 8-hex-sided hex. You'll want the majority of your map (and thus Skirmishes) to be open plains.
Example World Map base:
Before choosing starting placement and play order, though, you must finish the World Map by building the terrain. Use the following to represent terrain types on the World Map:
Swamp tiles: Jungles/Forests
Swamp Water: Swamps
Rock tiles: Mountains
Sand tiles: Deserts
Water: Rivers/Lakes/etc.
Molten Lava: Volcanoes
Ice: Tundra
Grass tiles: Open plains
To build the terrain, simply place tiles of each type wherever you'd like to see them. We recommend placing about 3 hexes of any given tile adjacent to each other, so you don't have a one-hex desert. You only need one level of the different types of terrain on top of the big hex, since it's just there to represent the world (see VirtualScapes, coming soon).
Example World Map:
(Ice = swamp water and the upper level of grass = swamp, because I don't have them in my version of VS.)
The actual battlefields will be the Skirmish Maps.
Whenever a player gets into a fight (random encounters, attacking other players, or big monster battles), the Skirmish Map is built based on the space on the World Map in which the battle is taking place. For example, if a player gets into a random encounter on a grass space, the Skirmish Map should be mostly open plain. You should also reference the surrounding spaces to add little touches to your Skirmish Maps: is the grass space next to a rock space? Add a small rocky outcrop. Is there water nearby? Place a few puddles.
Example non-symmetrical hex-shaped Skirmish Map:
There are multiple ways to built Skirmish Maps: hex, non-hex, symmetrical, non-symmetrical.
Example symmetrical, hex-shaped Skirmish Map:
(Both of these example maps are of a fight on a grass space, next to a rock space.)
The idea behind the hex-shaped maps is that you can VirtualScape each space on the map, then put them all together for one giant world map. But the Skirmish Maps we use are simply 4 24-hex pieces in the middle, with terrain built on top, and a 24-hex piece on either side for starting zones, though you could get away with much smaller starting zones in the beginning.
Each player only starts with 250 gold to spend on their initial units. Gold translates directly into points in terms of recruiting units. Players randomly determine draft, seating, and play order. Starting with the first player, everyone drafts one Unique Hero worth up to 100 points.
Players can use Unique Heroes as Generals: they represent the location of a player's main forces on the map and move around each turn to conquer new territories. They also attack other players' territories and defend against other players' attacks.*
This is what the Territory Map looks like before the game, and after a number of turns.
Example Territory Map base:
Example Territory Map:
*Player vs player attacks are carried out differently, depending on factors that will be described later.
Each player has a terrain type to represent their territories. They can use hexes with height or flat (like water) hexes, but they will need a corresponding heighted hex if they ever purchase a castle. But we'll get to castles later; for now, back to purchasing initial units.
After each player has purchased a General (limit 1 per player to start), they may purchase additional squads or common heroes with any remaining gold. The turn order for the initial draft as well as during the game itself is called the Wheel. The wheel works as follows:
Player 1
Player 2
Player 3
Player 4
Player 4
Player 1
Player 2
Player 3
Player 3
etc...
Players do not have to spend all 250 gold, and can save any they do not spend for later turns. Once players have finished drafting their initial armies, it's time for the real game...
Determine play order at random and use the Wheel system as above. At the start of each player's turn, that player gains gold. 10 gold is gained for having your starting territory, 5 gold for the Mine that each player starts the game with on their starting territory, 5 gold for each other Mined territory, and 1 gold for each Un-Mined territory. So on each player's first turn, they'll gain 15 Gold.
After gaining gold, there are two phases to a player's turn: Build and Conquer. During the build phase, players have 2 options: Recruit more units, or Build a mine. Players cannot do both in the same turn. Mines cost 20 Gold more than the last mine that player purchased: so 20 Gold for the first, 40 for the second, etc. You can place a mine on any un-mined space, limit one mine per hex. There is no limit to the number for mines you can have.
The Gold Mines mentioned above as special spaces on the map are an addition that we play with, but not necessary. These spaces are marked by face-down Brandar glyph, and placed evenly toward the center of the board. Once a player conquers the space, flip the glyph over and that player gets 5 free gold. If a Gold Mine is built on that space, it produces 10 gold per turn instead of the usual 5.
We use extra wound markers on the Territory Map to mark the spaces we mine. If a player conquers another player's space, destroy any mines on that space, you can't take them over. Similarly, Castles, below are also destroyed.
Alternatively, players can build Castles. A Castle, with door* and all, costs 150 Gold. If a player attacks a Castle (including the one on each player's home space), the battle is a Castle Siege instead of a Skirmish. See Battles to come.
*Since the actual castle door is impossible to take down, treat castle doors the same as the Marvel Breakable Wall Section (4 Defense, 1 auto-shield against small/medium normal attacks), but with 5 Life.
When Recruiting, players can purchase any army cards they can afford. Again, Gold translates directly into Points. Players can also re-buy any units that have been destroyed in battle, as long as they have at least one of that unit remaining. For example, if 3 of a player's Blade Gruts have been killed, they can spend 10 Gold per Grut to buy them back. If all 4 get killed, though, the card is returned to the Card Pool (which should include all your cards no one has recruited yet*). The cost per unit is that card's Points divided by the number of units on that card, rounded up to the nearest point. The Krav, for example, cost 33.333 points/unit, so you spend 34 to re-buy them individually.
*You may wish to leave some cards out for yet-to-be-described Big Monster Battles.
Heroes can be re-bought once destroyed. But what if the hero is merely wounded in battle but survives? Simple: remove 1 wound marker from that hero's army card at the end of each of your turns.
After the initial before-game purchases, players can buy additional Unique Heroes. Like the first hero you bought, these Unique Heroes can also be deployed as generals. See the yet-to-come section on moving around the map for more.
There is also a Point Ceiling that has to be considered when recruiting new units. This is the most expensive card it is possible to purchase. At the beginning of the game, this ceiling is 100 Points. No army cards that cost more than 100 can be recruited. The first time Player 1 "Wheels" (takes their second of two turns in a row), the Ceiling is raised to 110. It gets raised to 120 the second time Player 2 "Wheels" after that, etc.
During a player's Build phase, they can spend as much Gold as they have. After Building/Recruiting, it's time for the Conquer phase.
There are four different options during Conquer:
1. March a General into an adjacent territory.
2. Double-time a General two spaces through un-conquered territory.
3. Hurry a General three spaces through your own territory.
4. Attack a player with a General.
You'll notice you need a general for all 4 options. Only Unique Heroes may be Generals. To make a General, simply choose a Unique Hero you have recruited and place him/her on the map. The initial General you Recruit starts the game on your Home space. Subsequent generals can start there or on an adjacent space that you have conquered.
If you place a new General on the map, you must move that General this turn. You can only move one General per turn. Here's what happens with each of the above options.
1. March a General into an adjacent territory. Pick one of your Generals and an un-conquered territory next to the one that General is in. Roll the 20-sided die to see if there is anything special about that territory*. Then place the General in the new territory on the World Wap and add a hex to your conquered territory on the Territory Map.
*If you roll a 19-20, score 5 free gold! If you roll low (as described later), the natives fight back: time for a Skirmish! See Skirmishing below.
2. Double-time a General two spaces through un-conquered territory. Move 2 spaces but don't conquer either. It's a good way to get somewhere fast and can help avoid fights when you don't want them, but doesn't reward you with any gold or territory.
3. Hurry a General three spaces through your own territory. This is really only important later in the game when you have more Generals (or yours gets killed) and/or you have conquered a lot of territory.
4. If your General is next to an opponent's territory, you may start a Skirmish with that player. I'll update those details next.
SKIRMISHES:
There are many different types of skirmishes that can take place over the course of a game: General vs General, PvP, Castle Siege, Wild/Native Skirmish, Brawl, and Big Monster Battle.
General vs General: Don't be fooled by the name, this isn't a one-on-one fight. A General vs General Skirmish occurs when a player attacks another player's territory that has a General in it, or to which one of that player's Generals is adjacent. (The attacking player's General is always present, in every type of battle, since the only way to attack is with a General!) If such an attack is made, the two players fight it out on a Skirmish Map corresponding to the attacked territory. The defending player chooses a point total for the battle between the Minimum* of the player with the most points and the Maximum** of the player with the least points. All GvG Skirmishes are battles to the death. However, in any type of Skirmish, players are allowed to Retreat. Rules for Retreating later. Glyphs are optional, I suggest a d20 roll to determine whether or not there will be glyphs (the number depends on the map you built).
*The Minimum is the total points of all that players Reserve card plus his/her present General (if any), divided by two. Example: If a player has Retiarius as his/her present General, Deadeye Dan as another General elsewhere on the map, and 430 other points worth of cards in his/her Reserve, his/her Minimum for this Skirmish is 260.
** The Maximum is the total of that player's Reserves plus present General. With the above example, this would be 520.
BATTLE CARDS AND BIG MONSTER BATTLES!!!
Battle Cards (BC) give players slight advantages during the game. BCs are purchased with 10 Battle Points (BP). BP are gained as follows:
I will try to print out full text versions of all the cards, but you can also play by having the following list handy and a regular deck of playing cards. The BC correspond to the 52 playing cards as follows:
BIG MONSTER BATTLES!!!
The very center space of the World Map is the lair of a Big Monster. When a General enters this space, they must immediately roll a d6 and fight the Big Monster listed below:
More soon...
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Like Heroscape? (Duh.) Like Warcraft, Starcraft, Age of Empires, or Empire Earth? Want to play both in the same game?
About a week ago, my friends were over for some Heroscape, and after a game or two decided they wanted to figure out how to turn it into a world-wide, turn-based Risk-like game. So just about every day since then we've been brainstorming and playtesting and I've gotta say it's turning into something really fun and I can't wait to play it every day.
My friends and I all know the rules, but we have yet to write them down. We will do so soon, though, and I will post them here when they're ready. Just know that it will require a lot of terrain, a good number of figures, and the space for all of it...my entire living room is now our War Room.
You need at least 3 maps set up at once: the World Map, which shows the terrain, General, and special* locations; the Territory Map, which shows which section of the world each player has conquered; and the Battle Map, which is to be set up for each skirmish.
*Gold mines and big monster battles for example, to be explained.
The World Map and Territory Map are each large hexes 8 spaces long on a side. You will need 6 24-hex, 6 2-hex, 6 1-hex, and 1 7-hex to build each. I will try to VirtualScape them soon. Each player chooses a glyph to be placed on one of the corners to represent his/her headquarters. Place one copy of each glyph on the same corner of the World Map and the Territory Map to keep them oriented and relative to each other.
For the World Map, we recommend using grass tiles for the base, the whole big 8-hex-sided hex. You'll want the majority of your map (and thus Skirmishes) to be open plains.
Example World Map base:
Before choosing starting placement and play order, though, you must finish the World Map by building the terrain. Use the following to represent terrain types on the World Map:
Swamp tiles: Jungles/Forests
Swamp Water: Swamps
Rock tiles: Mountains
Sand tiles: Deserts
Water: Rivers/Lakes/etc.
Molten Lava: Volcanoes
Ice: Tundra
Grass tiles: Open plains
To build the terrain, simply place tiles of each type wherever you'd like to see them. We recommend placing about 3 hexes of any given tile adjacent to each other, so you don't have a one-hex desert. You only need one level of the different types of terrain on top of the big hex, since it's just there to represent the world (see VirtualScapes, coming soon).
Example World Map:
(Ice = swamp water and the upper level of grass = swamp, because I don't have them in my version of VS.)
The actual battlefields will be the Skirmish Maps.
Whenever a player gets into a fight (random encounters, attacking other players, or big monster battles), the Skirmish Map is built based on the space on the World Map in which the battle is taking place. For example, if a player gets into a random encounter on a grass space, the Skirmish Map should be mostly open plain. You should also reference the surrounding spaces to add little touches to your Skirmish Maps: is the grass space next to a rock space? Add a small rocky outcrop. Is there water nearby? Place a few puddles.
Example non-symmetrical hex-shaped Skirmish Map:
There are multiple ways to built Skirmish Maps: hex, non-hex, symmetrical, non-symmetrical.
Example symmetrical, hex-shaped Skirmish Map:
(Both of these example maps are of a fight on a grass space, next to a rock space.)
The idea behind the hex-shaped maps is that you can VirtualScape each space on the map, then put them all together for one giant world map. But the Skirmish Maps we use are simply 4 24-hex pieces in the middle, with terrain built on top, and a 24-hex piece on either side for starting zones, though you could get away with much smaller starting zones in the beginning.
Each player only starts with 250 gold to spend on their initial units. Gold translates directly into points in terms of recruiting units. Players randomly determine draft, seating, and play order. Starting with the first player, everyone drafts one Unique Hero worth up to 100 points.
Players can use Unique Heroes as Generals: they represent the location of a player's main forces on the map and move around each turn to conquer new territories. They also attack other players' territories and defend against other players' attacks.*
This is what the Territory Map looks like before the game, and after a number of turns.
Example Territory Map base:
Example Territory Map:
*Player vs player attacks are carried out differently, depending on factors that will be described later.
Each player has a terrain type to represent their territories. They can use hexes with height or flat (like water) hexes, but they will need a corresponding heighted hex if they ever purchase a castle. But we'll get to castles later; for now, back to purchasing initial units.
After each player has purchased a General (limit 1 per player to start), they may purchase additional squads or common heroes with any remaining gold. The turn order for the initial draft as well as during the game itself is called the Wheel. The wheel works as follows:
Player 1
Player 2
Player 3
Player 4
Player 4
Player 1
Player 2
Player 3
Player 3
etc...
Players do not have to spend all 250 gold, and can save any they do not spend for later turns. Once players have finished drafting their initial armies, it's time for the real game...
Determine play order at random and use the Wheel system as above. At the start of each player's turn, that player gains gold. 10 gold is gained for having your starting territory, 5 gold for the Mine that each player starts the game with on their starting territory, 5 gold for each other Mined territory, and 1 gold for each Un-Mined territory. So on each player's first turn, they'll gain 15 Gold.
After gaining gold, there are two phases to a player's turn: Build and Conquer. During the build phase, players have 2 options: Recruit more units, or Build a mine. Players cannot do both in the same turn. Mines cost 20 Gold more than the last mine that player purchased: so 20 Gold for the first, 40 for the second, etc. You can place a mine on any un-mined space, limit one mine per hex. There is no limit to the number for mines you can have.
The Gold Mines mentioned above as special spaces on the map are an addition that we play with, but not necessary. These spaces are marked by face-down Brandar glyph, and placed evenly toward the center of the board. Once a player conquers the space, flip the glyph over and that player gets 5 free gold. If a Gold Mine is built on that space, it produces 10 gold per turn instead of the usual 5.
We use extra wound markers on the Territory Map to mark the spaces we mine. If a player conquers another player's space, destroy any mines on that space, you can't take them over. Similarly, Castles, below are also destroyed.
Alternatively, players can build Castles. A Castle, with door* and all, costs 150 Gold. If a player attacks a Castle (including the one on each player's home space), the battle is a Castle Siege instead of a Skirmish. See Battles to come.
*Since the actual castle door is impossible to take down, treat castle doors the same as the Marvel Breakable Wall Section (4 Defense, 1 auto-shield against small/medium normal attacks), but with 5 Life.
When Recruiting, players can purchase any army cards they can afford. Again, Gold translates directly into Points. Players can also re-buy any units that have been destroyed in battle, as long as they have at least one of that unit remaining. For example, if 3 of a player's Blade Gruts have been killed, they can spend 10 Gold per Grut to buy them back. If all 4 get killed, though, the card is returned to the Card Pool (which should include all your cards no one has recruited yet*). The cost per unit is that card's Points divided by the number of units on that card, rounded up to the nearest point. The Krav, for example, cost 33.333 points/unit, so you spend 34 to re-buy them individually.
*You may wish to leave some cards out for yet-to-be-described Big Monster Battles.
Heroes can be re-bought once destroyed. But what if the hero is merely wounded in battle but survives? Simple: remove 1 wound marker from that hero's army card at the end of each of your turns.
After the initial before-game purchases, players can buy additional Unique Heroes. Like the first hero you bought, these Unique Heroes can also be deployed as generals. See the yet-to-come section on moving around the map for more.
There is also a Point Ceiling that has to be considered when recruiting new units. This is the most expensive card it is possible to purchase. At the beginning of the game, this ceiling is 100 Points. No army cards that cost more than 100 can be recruited. The first time Player 1 "Wheels" (takes their second of two turns in a row), the Ceiling is raised to 110. It gets raised to 120 the second time Player 2 "Wheels" after that, etc.
During a player's Build phase, they can spend as much Gold as they have. After Building/Recruiting, it's time for the Conquer phase.
There are four different options during Conquer:
1. March a General into an adjacent territory.
2. Double-time a General two spaces through un-conquered territory.
3. Hurry a General three spaces through your own territory.
4. Attack a player with a General.
You'll notice you need a general for all 4 options. Only Unique Heroes may be Generals. To make a General, simply choose a Unique Hero you have recruited and place him/her on the map. The initial General you Recruit starts the game on your Home space. Subsequent generals can start there or on an adjacent space that you have conquered.
If you place a new General on the map, you must move that General this turn. You can only move one General per turn. Here's what happens with each of the above options.
1. March a General into an adjacent territory. Pick one of your Generals and an un-conquered territory next to the one that General is in. Roll the 20-sided die to see if there is anything special about that territory*. Then place the General in the new territory on the World Wap and add a hex to your conquered territory on the Territory Map.
*If you roll a 19-20, score 5 free gold! If you roll low (as described later), the natives fight back: time for a Skirmish! See Skirmishing below.
2. Double-time a General two spaces through un-conquered territory. Move 2 spaces but don't conquer either. It's a good way to get somewhere fast and can help avoid fights when you don't want them, but doesn't reward you with any gold or territory.
3. Hurry a General three spaces through your own territory. This is really only important later in the game when you have more Generals (or yours gets killed) and/or you have conquered a lot of territory.
4. If your General is next to an opponent's territory, you may start a Skirmish with that player. I'll update those details next.
SKIRMISHES:
There are many different types of skirmishes that can take place over the course of a game: General vs General, PvP, Castle Siege, Wild/Native Skirmish, Brawl, and Big Monster Battle.
General vs General: Don't be fooled by the name, this isn't a one-on-one fight. A General vs General Skirmish occurs when a player attacks another player's territory that has a General in it, or to which one of that player's Generals is adjacent. (The attacking player's General is always present, in every type of battle, since the only way to attack is with a General!) If such an attack is made, the two players fight it out on a Skirmish Map corresponding to the attacked territory. The defending player chooses a point total for the battle between the Minimum* of the player with the most points and the Maximum** of the player with the least points. All GvG Skirmishes are battles to the death. However, in any type of Skirmish, players are allowed to Retreat. Rules for Retreating later. Glyphs are optional, I suggest a d20 roll to determine whether or not there will be glyphs (the number depends on the map you built).
*The Minimum is the total points of all that players Reserve card plus his/her present General (if any), divided by two. Example: If a player has Retiarius as his/her present General, Deadeye Dan as another General elsewhere on the map, and 430 other points worth of cards in his/her Reserve, his/her Minimum for this Skirmish is 260.
** The Maximum is the total of that player's Reserves plus present General. With the above example, this would be 520.
BATTLE CARDS AND BIG MONSTER BATTLES!!!
Battle Cards (BC) give players slight advantages during the game. BCs are purchased with 10 Battle Points (BP). BP are gained as follows:
- 1 BP at the start of each turn.
- 1 BP at the start of each battle.
- 1 BP after winning a battle.
I will try to print out full text versions of all the cards, but you can also play by having the following list handy and a regular deck of playing cards. The BC correspond to the 52 playing cards as follows:
- Hearts 2-9 (8 ): Play before making an attack roll. Add 1 attack die.
- Diamonds 2-6 (5): Play before making an attack roll. Add 2 attack dice.
- Diamonds 7-9 (3): Play before making an attack roll. Add 3 attack dice.
- Spades 2-9 (8 ): Play before making a defense roll (but after an attack roll). Add 1 defense die.
- Clubs 2-6 (5): Play before making a defense roll (but after an attack roll). Add 2 defense dice.
- Clubs 7-9 (3): Play before making a defense roll (but after an attack roll). Add 3 defense dice.
- Red and Black 10s (4): St. Geoffrey's Own Luck - Play before making any d20 roll. Add 3 to the result.
- Black Jacks (2): Advance Warning - Play when you are attacked. One of your Generals may Defend from up to two Territories away (instead of an adjacent Territory).
- Red Jacks (2): Forced March - Make two Move actions this Conquer phase (but only one Attack action; with the same or different Generals).
- Black Queens (2): Driving Rain - Play before the first initiative of any battle. All units get -2 Range (minimum 1) for this battle.
- Red Queens (2):
- Snow and Ice Enhanced Movement - Play any time when fighting on a Snow Battlefield. Your units gain Snow and Ice Enhanced Movement for one turn.
- Well-Traveled Paths - Play any time when fighting on a Grass Battlefield. Your units get +2 Move for one turn.
- Swamp Water Strength - Play any time when fighting on a Swamp Battlefield. Your units gain Swamp Water Strength for one turn.
- Black Kings (2):
- Lava Resistant - Play any time when fighting on a Lava Battlefield. Your units gain Lava Resistant for one round.
- Avalanche - Play any time when fighting on a Mountain Battlefield. All opponents' figures must move to the lowest adjacent space if possible.
- Sandstorm - Play any time when fighting on a Desert Battlefield. An opponent must divide 3 unblockable wounds among their units.
- Red Kings (2):
- Wet Suits - Play any time when fighting on a Water Battlefield. For this battle, your units only have to end movement when entering the second water space for the turn.
- Thick Branches - Play any time when fighting on a Forest Battlefield. For this battle, your units add 1 Defense die when they are adjacent to a tree and are defending against an adjacent attacking figure.
- Secret Tunnel - Play Before the first initiative of a Castle Siege. Place one Glyph of Brandar on either side of the castle wall. Attacking figures may move between the Glyphs of Brandar as though they were adjacent spaces and do not have to stop their movement. Defending figures may not move onto the glyphs.
- Red Aces (2): Stir Unrest - Play when any General moves into unconquered territory. That General must fight a random encounter and does not roll the d20 for additional encounters or gold.
- Ace of Clubs (1): Bad Alchemy - Play at the start of your turn. You gain no gold during the Recruit phase this turn. Each other player gains no gold during their next Recruit phase.
- ACE OF SPADES (1): Loki's Mischief - Play at the start of your turn. For each card in a player's army (including all Generals), that player must divide 2 wounds among their army cards. Skip your Conquer phase this turn.
BIG MONSTER BATTLES!!!
The very center space of the World Map is the lair of a Big Monster. When a General enters this space, they must immediately roll a d6 and fight the Big Monster listed below:
- Mimring + 3 Swog Rider + 2 Arrow Gruts
- Nilfhiem + Nakita Agents
- Sujoah + 3 Fyorlag Spiders
- Zelrig + Tagawa Samurai
- Braxas + Elite Onyx Vipers
- Charos + Kozuke Samurai
More soon...
Comments 20
Total Comments 20
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Sounds awesome. It would be a great way to lure in my friends.
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Posted August 16th, 2008 at 03:01 PM by S1R_ART0R1US
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Sounds really cool.
~EP, hoping to win mastersets somehow |
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Posted August 16th, 2008 at 11:42 PM by Einar's puppy
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Thanks guys, stay tuned. Updated a little more detail about the maps.
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Posted August 17th, 2008 at 11:41 AM by NecroBlade
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Map example images up.
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Posted August 18th, 2008 at 12:35 AM by NecroBlade
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'nother update.
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Posted August 18th, 2008 at 05:07 PM by NecroBlade
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I built a world map map. I was wondering, what's the ration of world map space to skirmish space? For example, if I had a snow space 5 spaces away from where the battle was taking place, would it be in the skirmish map? I was thinking a ration of 1:7 would be good. 1 world map space equals 7 skirmish spaces. I can't wait to try ti out once you've got everything put up.
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Posted August 18th, 2008 at 05:39 PM by Einar's puppy
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No, it should only reference the space the battle is taking place on and any adjacent spaces. It's a WORLD map, not a city block map. If the world map space is grass with 4 adjacent grass spaces and 2 adjacent rock spaces, you build an open map with a couple small mountains.
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Posted August 18th, 2008 at 06:01 PM by NecroBlade
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NEW details about recruiting posted.
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Posted August 22nd, 2008 at 03:12 PM by NecroBlade
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Just found this. It sounds really fun we'll try this soon. Thanks, Necro!
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Posted August 24th, 2008 at 07:54 AM by Onion Knight
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Sweeeeeeeeeeeeet!!!!!!!! I always thoguht Age of Empires rules should be squeezed into the Heroscape system! Thanks NecroBlade!
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Posted August 24th, 2008 at 08:24 AM by Pickledpie
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when you have all the rules posted you should put them in the downloads
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Posted August 24th, 2008 at 10:56 AM by Josh
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or do you have them posted there and im to dumb to find them
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Posted August 24th, 2008 at 10:59 AM by Josh
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Don't worry about your intelligence: the rules aren't quite all up yet. Thanks for looking, guys. I hope to continue with somewhat regular updates until it's all there.
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Posted August 24th, 2008 at 12:02 PM by NecroBlade
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Heehee, you posted this.
I still don't get it. |
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Posted August 25th, 2008 at 12:32 AM by DeceitfulBeauty
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But your avatar makes me want to jump your bones.
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Posted August 25th, 2008 at 12:32 AM by DeceitfulBeauty
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Recent Blog Entries by NecroBlade
- Louisville NHSD 2013 Tournament of Champions (October 20th, 2013)
- Louisville Tournament: March 2012 (March 3rd, 2012)
- NHSD Indianapolis 2011 (October 22nd, 2011)
- GenCon 2011 Battle Reports (August 9th, 2011)
- June 2011 Louisville Tournament (June 11th, 2011)
