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Yodaking
April 22nd, 2016, 05:07 AM
If you have created an Stl file for use in the 3D printing of Heroscape related terrain or objects that you would like to share with the larger community here, post a link in this thread and I'll add it to the index. Please include an image of the 3D object the file will print.

***update*** With Hasbro letting the patent on the Hex tile design expire, Heroscape hexes and terrain can be uploaded to Thingiverse now (as I understand it, don't quote me as I'm not a patent lawyer). As such Robbdaman and Whiteknight has started doing just that. This is Robbdaman's thingiverse store (https://www.thingiverse.com/robbdamangames/collections/heroscape-terrain). You can find Heroscape hexes and bridge pieces by Whiteknight here (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4778315). If you can't find what you are looking for in this index, try that website and see what people have uploaded without posting links here.

WhiteKnight files made available here:
(check his thingverse store for additional items)

Heroscape ice tiles (6, 4, 3, and 7 hex with grooves) (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4968144)
Heroscape Walls to make orthogonal buildings (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4907006)
Hexes (classic and road, 24, 7, 3, 2, and 1, RttFF bridge, and ice hexes) (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4778315)
Fortress pieces (WIP) (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4778282)
Heroscape Palm Trees (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4775445)
Heroscape Evergreen Trees (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4775433)
Heroscape glyphs (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4773743)

Other files by other designers found below:

Heroscape Hexes:

https://scontent-dfw5-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/47261583_10157011353621757_8329797798794887168_o.jpg?_nc_cat=104&_nc_ht=scontent-dfw5-1.xx&oh=32415b727298d16816991309d0ca20d7&oe=5C6939A5
Water Tile (by Mementomori (http://www.heroscapers.com/community/member.php?u=946)) - download (https://www.dropbox.com/s/sse4y1oyn7n5zqd/HS_hex_tile_water.stl?dl=0) (measurements in mm)

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1443/25977062724_4796e79e12_b.jpg

Water Tile (by digitallimit (https://www.heroscapers.com/community/member.php?u=47962)) - download (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2786200)
https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/8b/ef/e3/57/e1/8a2255881975053d2cd1ab14ca04b351_preview_featured.JPG

Alternate-Texture Rock Hex Tile (by srmalloy (http://www.heroscapers.com/community/member.php?u=760)) - download (https://mega.nz/#%21Vc0yUZTb%213eWR-WqVy75xrRQ3fNXh1NjXCa3LqxFC-LIEaQ4MKe8)

http://imgur.com/YwDxkdi.png

TT Glaciers (BftU Rock Outcrops too):

Single Rock Outcrop (by MementoMori (https://www.heroscapers.com/community/member.php?u=946)) - download (https://www.dropbox.com/s/3v7lbm2ksorio79/outcrop.stl?dl=0)
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1492/26622165565_a037ca804b_k.jpg

3 Hex Rock Outcrop (by MementoMori (https://www.heroscapers.com/community/member.php?u=946)) - download (https://www.dropbox.com/s/06s5ugzjeafsmsv/outcrop3_123d.stl?dl=0)
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7208/27076924712_887cf84d77_b.jpg
Original (left) vs. Scan (right)

3 Hex Rock Outcrop (by digitallimit (https://www.heroscapers.com/community/member.php?u=47962)) - download (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2759935)
https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/64/d9/89/03/5d/2fb1162838a371d60575e7c95e95ae23_preview_featured.jpg

4 Hex Glacier (by digitallimit (https://www.heroscapers.com/community/member.php?u=47962)) - download (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2786045)
https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/d0/67/32/7d/31/17c9ab6eecaed9c9a3218dc677e900f9_preview_featured.jpg

6 Hex Glacier (by digitallimit (https://www.heroscapers.com/community/member.php?u=47962)) - download (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2786988)
https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/bb/c0/b9/b7/5f/ae49516d654132ba823514cc4bc5341a_preview_featured.jpg

Non Traditional Ruin Walls (by robbdama (https://www.heroscapers.com/community/member.php?u=3788))

Huge 3 sided Ruin (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Nztr5mcUuIoMVNr-x1swMX7l9ng9c_lY/view?usp=sharing)

Small Ruin flipped reverse (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Me1JBT3kxqSImAtaaB72hXLtrzs9SmOI/view?usp=sharing)

Large Ruin flipped reverse (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1FIfAM_10EAnpeh3ZCrxn2oYBgvkPhi8P/view?usp=sharing)

Trees and Plants:

Ticalla Jungle Tree!!!

Ticalla tree hex (by MementoMori) (https://drive.google.com/open?id=1vUN4JSQ_SfJUyiEg3vgW7k3D_nXD9VOD)
Ticalla tree trunk (improved by me) (https://drive.google.com/open?id=1pbE4rl4d7i6I0lTSaZLCllZFzVzg6AJN)

New!
Ticalla bottom leaves (https://drive.google.com/open?id=1LEWXfwTR_zn4KQBQcfyDoYuUh4f6wUGc) (smoothed)
Ticalla middle leaves (https://drive.google.com/open?id=1f1R5cG9MOy58cQUkB-Z9rT9Dcspcmizf)(smoothed)
Ticalla top leaves (https://drive.google.com/open?id=1WmOeiay4tx7atUQQeWYhyw_3YBMuzkgr) (smoothed)

Aquarium plants not included
http://www.mediafire.com/convkey/f79d/slcx5iaoxvd22iyzg.jpg?size_id=6
(3D print on the left, old Ticalla palm on the right. Note: the new leaves have a lot less little pits)

Here's a file for all 3 sections of the Ticalla Tree Top lined up vertical on one build plate for an easy print of the entire tree top.
http://www.mediafire.com/file/h3o687...e_top.stl/file (http://www.mediafire.com/file/h3o687gurx4itfy/Ticalla_tree_top.stl/file) (Trex (https://www.heroscapers.com/community/member.php?u=9140))

Ticalla Bush Base (by MementoMori) - download (https://www.dropbox.com/s/16gmt6q9f2nxqtn/ticalla.stl?dl=0)


https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7355/26854009244_8443f662c8_b.jpg
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7704/27391611771_e9381f865f_b.jpg

Plants are from Games Workshop jungle plants blister, which contains 3 plants out of the 4 needed for ticalla, albeit in slightly different shades. I still don't have the 4th plant, but it's ordered. The plants are stuck in place, no need of glue.

Other Classicscape Themed Objects:

Waterfall (by srmalloy) - download (https://mega.nz/#%21tNcH2Qia%21PUByOLPgHfb8q8B02RdpFk1B5ff0_4IYj2V9sgPsm6w) (2-8 levels high)

http://i.imgur.com/Kc3kujs.png

Water Rock Outcrop (by Mementomori (http://www.heroscapers.com/community/member.php?u=946)) - download (https://www.dropbox.com/s/dwvji7g84blzo9w/water_outcrop.stl?dl=0)
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1625/26078542754_a7aa6b7e2c_b.jpg

Rock Arc (by Mementomori (http://www.heroscapers.com/community/member.php?u=946)) - download (https://www.dropbox.com/s/ns41w1gxjk678z6/rock_arc.stl?dl=0)
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1680/26692521421_f1f8a44d62_b.jpg

Yodaking
April 22nd, 2016, 05:11 AM
Public Service Announcement (concerning this thread)

1. Since this is the custom terrain section, I'm going to keep the index restricted to terrain related items rather then expand it to include figures. There are lots and lots of potential figures so those should have their own index should someone want to track them.

2. I'm only going to include in this Index .stl files created and posted by members of this community. Their are many, many awesome .stl files out there on the web that would be good fits for our game. Too many to try and track and list them all. So if you find something really awesome on another website that you think others should be aware of, be sure to share it, just don't ask me to add it to this Index.

White Knight
April 22nd, 2016, 11:29 AM
Trees Link
Tree trunks, RttFF Trees, and a Street Lamp (http://www.heroscapers.com/community/showpost.php?p=1966539&postcount=1)

Glaciers
.stl files for the glaciers here (https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B1pcS5_foAOcRGdla3l2ektwdVE&usp=sharing).

Return to the Forgotten Forest Bridge Wall
(dimensions in inches)

.stl file here (https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1pcS5_foAOcTFFwb1FSZl9selk/view?usp=sharing)

Pictures

http://i795.photobucket.com/albums/yy234/aschlauch/3D%20Printing/wall%20pic2_zpsdqxmrfmu.png

http://i795.photobucket.com/albums/yy234/aschlauch/3D%20Printing/wall%20pic1_zpssbnhjmbg.png

MementoMori
April 22nd, 2016, 03:32 PM
Here's the water tile, measured in mm.

Water Tile (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/61463808/heroscape/HS_hex_tile_water.stl)

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1639/25976862324_7bb0d42fa8_b.jpg

Yodaking
April 22nd, 2016, 04:44 PM
Updated.

The TT Glaciers could use some pics of some kind (real or computer). Does the file make hollow rocks like what comes in the TT set or is the base already attached with the rocks solid?

White Knight
April 22nd, 2016, 05:03 PM
Updated.

The TT Glaciers could use some pics of some kind (real or computer). Does the file make hollow rocks like what comes in the TT set or is the base already attached with the rocks solid?
No bases.

I'll add pics when I get the chance.

MementoMori
April 22nd, 2016, 05:42 PM
Just updated the water tile to make the top a bit thinner, so we can get more clear results with transparent filaments.

And moved the picture to flicker, better than dropbox.

MementoMori
May 1st, 2016, 07:36 PM
Stuff based on Adoney's custom terrain: Water Outcrops & Rock Arc

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1625/26078542754_a7aa6b7e2c_b.jpg

Water Outcrop (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/61463808/heroscape/water_outcrop.stl)

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1680/26692521421_f1f8a44d62_b.jpg

Rock Arc (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/61463808/heroscape/rock_arc.stl)

White Knight
May 2nd, 2016, 06:39 PM
5 Hex Classic Tile

5 Hex Classic Tile (https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1pcS5_foAOcZnZXOFduOU5CUW8/view?usp=sharing)

http://i795.photobucket.com/albums/yy234/aschlauch/3D%20Printing/5hex%20classic%20tile_zpsr0jcz5q5.png

White Knight
May 3rd, 2016, 03:55 PM
7 Hex Classic Tile

7 Hex Classic Tile (https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1pcS5_foAOcUkpGSEVjcGs4bWs/view?usp=sharing)

http://i795.photobucket.com/albums/yy234/aschlauch/3D%20Printing/7%20hex%20piece%20with%20classic%20texture_zpsdfubikcg.jpg

MementoMori
May 3rd, 2016, 04:43 PM
Cool, loads of pieces! I'm printing a 7 hex one, but cannot decide which color should I make it.

TREX
May 3rd, 2016, 10:20 PM
:drool: Man, I wish I could rationalize buying a printer.

Teazia
May 3rd, 2016, 10:45 PM
Printing a water tile right now. 7 hex tile looks amazing! I hope it fits on my bed. :p

MementoMori
May 4th, 2016, 05:05 AM
Water tiles come out a bit loose in my printer. Tell me how they turn in yours, I may need to adjust the piece a bit.

White Knight
May 5th, 2016, 11:38 AM
7 hex top piece (https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1pcS5_foAOcc3hDQ19RWUNsbUE/view?usp=sharing)
7 hex bottom piece (https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1pcS5_foAOcRE1KR1Nqc2FBT0E/view?usp=sharing)

MementoMori
May 22nd, 2016, 12:36 PM
Outcrop 3 (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/61463808/heroscape/outcrop3_123d.stl) in mm. Scanned with 123D Catch, not too happy with the final model, but don't have time to retouch it yet.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7208/27076924712_887cf84d77_b.jpg
Original (left) vs. Scan (right)

TREX
May 22nd, 2016, 02:10 PM
Looks great MementoMori, I looks pretty close to the Original.

MementoMori
May 22nd, 2016, 02:19 PM
Looks great MementoMori, I looks pretty close to the Original.

Is as if the original has molten a bit, or maybe soften. But the process is quite quick, I expect to use it as the base for a more detailed version.

Porkins
May 23rd, 2016, 02:58 PM
So at work they just put in a 3D printer and a 3D laser scanner for us to use on work stuff or personal stuff. I've been playing around with the 3D printer a bit, but have not played with the scanner yet. Anything I should try scanning?

MementoMori
May 23rd, 2016, 03:06 PM
Wo-sa-ga please! That should be easy, and it's soooo expensive :(

As for terrain, it could be nice to scan the marro hive, being so organic makes it hard to sculpt. While trees and glaciers are pretty easy to replicate. Fortress pieces on the other hand might be easier to design them from ground than scan them.

I do already have battlements and ladders, just need to check measures and test print.

White Knight
May 23rd, 2016, 04:11 PM
So at work they just put in a 3D printer and a 3D laser scanner for us to use on work stuff or personal stuff. I've been playing around with the 3D printer a bit, but have not played with the scanner yet. Anything I should try scanning?
Scanning figures would be nice. Any figure would be OK to start with--to see how it compares with the 123D Catch scans we've done for most of the figures.

Wo-sa-ga please! That should be easy, and it's soooo expensive :(

As for terrain, it could be nice to scan the marro hive, being so organic makes it hard to sculpt. While trees and glaciers are pretty easy to replicate. Fortress pieces on the other hand might be easier to design them from ground than scan them.

I do already have battlements and ladders, just need to check measures and test print.
The Marro Hive from Virtualscape has already been converted to a Hexscape terrain file. There is an online program that will convert it to an .stl file.

Yodaking
May 23rd, 2016, 04:32 PM
If I had a 3-D scanner I would be scanning in larger figures and objects that I own and then scaling them down to HS size for printing. GI Joe action figures posed, scanned, and shrunk down for printing would be sweet. Then I wouldn't have to custom make so many GI Joe minis. Spirit Ironknife is one I've been struggling to come up with an easy mod for that would be great if I could just scan the action figure to get the right outfit & gear.

Porkins
May 23rd, 2016, 04:50 PM
I can try out WSG. Won't be this week; maybe next.

MementoMori
May 23rd, 2016, 06:22 PM
The Marro Hive from Virtualscape has already been converted to a Hexscape terrain file. There is an online program that will convert it to an .stl file.

Sadly the marro hive is quite low quality. Good for playing, but it would result in a very poor print.

http://i64.tinypic.com/23ix82u.png

White Knight
May 23rd, 2016, 06:26 PM
I didn't realize the poly-count was so low. Oh well...

White Knight
May 24th, 2016, 01:01 PM
So at work they just put in a 3D printer and a 3D laser scanner for us to use on work stuff or personal stuff. I've been playing around with the 3D printer a bit, but have not played with the scanner yet. Anything I should try scanning?
It would be great if you can scan a Dewback rider, if you have one. I'm having trouble finding a good lizard to mount a Stormtrooper for a 3D model.

Porkins
May 24th, 2016, 01:22 PM
I don't have one of those...I have a friend who might though. I'll ask.

TREX
May 25th, 2016, 01:32 AM
WO-SA-GA seems like a very easy figure to clone in a mold

MementoMori
May 25th, 2016, 07:07 AM
WO-SA-GA seems like a very easy figure to clone in a mold

The problem with that is that you need to have access to an original one. For people like me that's almost impossible. It was never imported to Spain and buying one from eBay is almost prohibitive.

So 3D printing is poor man's solution in this case.

MementoMori
June 5th, 2016, 09:41 AM
Original on the right. Plants are from Games Workshop jungle plants blister, which contains 3 plants out of the 4 needed for ticalla, albeit in slightly different shades. I still don't have the 4th plant, but it's ordered. The plants are stuck in place, no need of glue.

https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7355/26854009244_8443f662c8_b.jpg
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7751/27391615291_7084485c9a_b.jpg
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7704/27391611771_e9381f865f_b.jpg

Ticalla Bush / Palm tile (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/61463808/heroscape/ticalla.stl)

0.1mm layers with support for the bottom.

TREX
June 5th, 2016, 11:20 AM
Very Cool. I may just have to go and splurge on a 3d printer. You guys are making it more and more tantalizing with all these cool printer files.

Colorcrayons
August 16th, 2016, 12:04 PM
One quick question about "RttFF Tree Base Single"

Assuming it is exactly as the name says, is the surface flat to attach the tree too?

I want to use this piece to create custom stuff attached to it, so that it remains stable on a hex like a tree does.
But I need a flat surface as a blank slate, so to speak.

Kajoq
August 16th, 2016, 03:00 PM
I'd still really love to see a 3d scan of the Ruin pieces so we could make a mirror imaged version and actually have symmetry

Colorcrayons
August 16th, 2016, 07:21 PM
I'd still really love to see a 3d scan of the Ruin pieces so we could make a mirror imaged version and actually have symmetry

Great idea. Seconded.

White Knight
August 17th, 2016, 12:42 AM
I'd still really love to see a 3d scan of the Ruin pieces so we could make a mirror imaged version and actually have symmetry
I plan to do the ruins as well--and make reverse copies. I started, but the textures still give me a little trouble in Blender. I'll try to do them again soon.

srmalloy
August 17th, 2016, 11:08 AM
One quick question about "RttFF Tree Base Single"

Assuming it is exactly as the name says, is the surface flat to attach the tree too?


All of the files I downloaded are on my computer at home, and I'm stuck at work, but if I remember correctly, that file is a flat hex with, I believe, a 2mm rim to interlock with the raised center of a Heroscape tile.


If not, it should be easy to whip up one quickly in Sketchup or the like.

White Knight
August 17th, 2016, 01:35 PM
One quick question about "RttFF Tree Base Single"

Assuming it is exactly as the name says, is the surface flat to attach the tree too?


All of the files I downloaded are on my computer at home, and I'm stuck at work, but if I remember correctly, that file is a flat hex with, I believe, a 2mm rim to interlock with the raised center of a Heroscape tile.
Yes, it is flat with a rim to interlock with the Heroscape tile.

If you need something else, I have a 3D model that is easy to modify.

Colorcrayons
August 19th, 2016, 08:54 PM
Thanks, that should do it I think.

I have a friend in france who is a whiz at this, and getting him to build what I need on top of that blank hex is going to be a lot easier than trying to describe to him the exact dimensions needed without calipers handy for the base as well.

Sadly, while I do dabble in graphic design as a hobby, my 3D skills are non existent outside of sketchup and even that is minimal. Havent touched it since 2009.

srmalloy
August 20th, 2016, 12:03 AM
I have a friend in france who is a whiz at this, and getting him to build what I need on top of that blank hex is going to be a lot easier than trying to describe to him the exact dimensions needed without calipers handy for the base as well.

If you want the measurements, too, I took my calipers to the base of a one-hex tree; the outside dimensions are 41.35mm face-to-face, 47.74mm between opposite corners, with a side of 23.87mm; the lip is 1mm thick and about 1.5mm deep; the whole base is 3.2mm tall.

TREX
August 20th, 2016, 03:36 AM
How much effort would go into just printing out a one hex evergreen tree base. Not the tree part, just the base. I molded some of these out for some custom terrain I'm working on, and I'm just curious how much one would be to make. It would be made so you could attack something on the top of it to lock onto the top of a hex tile.

srmalloy
September 4th, 2016, 09:31 PM
Now that I'm starting to accumulate designs, I should add them to the index.

Alternate-texture single-hex rock tile (https://mega.nz/#!gBUxTaJZ!E62ighC4uFU9UzFeAeCtm3XuXcTmWDcrqwo2b8SmyYQ):

http://imgur.com/YwDxkdi.png

Collection of waterfall tiles (https://mega.nz/#!YFUgzZYK!ORIv3JVHEaGMdDHQ6OXIlBlq091XVBK1hZc8VUtmTt8) from 2-high to 8-high:

http://imgur.com/Kc3kujs.png


I've also got a four-hex straight tile that I worked up after I built a two-hex tile, but I haven't got that uploaded yet.

White Knight
September 4th, 2016, 10:01 PM
Yodaking
More designs to add to the index.

Yodaking
September 5th, 2016, 12:14 PM
They have been added and I already downloaded those waterfall files. It just might take me a while to getting around to actually try printing one but I'll be sure to share some pics once I do.

MementoMori
September 5th, 2016, 12:56 PM
I expect to print some waterfall soon, but won't be able to compare it to heroscape tiles until I finish painting some minis.

srmalloy
September 6th, 2016, 08:54 PM
I found a geometry error with my tile hex frame; the measurements were a little too fine, causing the tiles to fit too closely over the hex they were stacked on. In some cases, this would cause the tile to twist slightly, creating an offset of about half a millimeter from one end of a side to the other. When several of these tiles were stacked, this could introduce a twist to the stack that would make linking to other tiles difficult. So I reworked the geometry and rebuilt the models, replacing the zipfiles that I'd uploaded previously. The new download links are:


Falls tiles, 2-high to 8-high (https://mega.nz/#!tNcH2Qia!PUByOLPgHfb8q8B02RdpFk1B5ff0_4IYj2V9sgPsm6w)

Single hex rock tile (https://mega.nz/#!Vc0yUZTb!3eWR-WqVy75xrRQ3fNXh1NjXCa3LqxFC-LIEaQ4MKe8)

Yodaking
September 6th, 2016, 09:38 PM
updated

srmalloy
September 27th, 2016, 12:03 AM
With the library of models that we're accumulating, do you think we should have this thread stickied so that it remains on the first page where people can see it?

Also, there are two more entries to add to the index from the 3D Terrain STL Files (http://www.heroscapers.com/community/showthread.php?t=52845) thread:

Hex Tile (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1777717), a customizable tile generator -- you can generate nine different tile layouts from a single hex to a seven-hex circle, either as ground or water tiles, and the ground tiles can have a user-generated custom texture for the raised center tile face.

http://imgur.com/LbdPkRH.png

Hex Terrain Object Bases (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1789245), a customizable generator that will create nine different layouts of object base (the same set as the Hex Tile customizer) that will sit on the raised faces of Heroscape hexes.

http://imgur.com/pxv2bS2.png

lefton4ya
January 4th, 2017, 04:10 PM
@toshi on planeswalker-arena (http://planeswalker-arena.boards.net/thread/454/3d-printed-terrian) posted some 3-d files to get printed
The full Zendikar Hedron 3D Model (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1915800) and images can now be viewed on Thingiverse using Thingiview.
You can order a print from 3d hubs (https://www.3dhubs.com/) or other sites price will vary based on your location.

http://thingiverse-production-new.s3.amazonaws.com/renders/f6/d6/bc/04/a7/13d6aeaca410f473043a3714d256506a_preview_featured.jpghttp://thingiverse-production-new.s3.amazonaws.com/renders/82/3a/66/9e/f5/4cedc5b40ae5444ef2cc9f7d2173800c_preview_featured.jpghttp://thingiverse-production-new.s3.amazonaws.com/renders/ff/4e/12/20/71/5aeb389838406add27e915c836fec1e3_preview_featured.jpghttp://thingiverse-production-new.s3.amazonaws.com/renders/d9/dd/eb/e0/1e/9b1c123b7e33a88f2e89d4bf5e983115_preview_featured.jpg

nukem
February 8th, 2017, 03:02 PM
i have a problem with the size of this .stlīs
I use Cura (Ultimaker 2+) and the size is way of.
I tried to resize them (Whiteknights), but they turned out too small.

anybody in the mood the help me? :/

White Knight
February 8th, 2017, 03:52 PM
i have a problem with the size of this .stlīs
I use Cura (Ultimaker 2+) and the size is way of.
I tried to resize them (Whiteknights), but they turned out too small.

anybody in the mood the help me? :/
Which .stl are you trying to open?

nukem
February 9th, 2017, 04:53 PM
The single hex one and your take on the bridge (RttFF Bridge Wall)
Cura does open it like 1 mm (tiny not printable) and i tried to resize by multiplying 1.75 inches with 25.4 mm but the size is still to small.
What are the exact measurements of the original hex?

It would be so cool to print your creations. Need some snow, street, bridge tiles :)

White Knight
February 9th, 2017, 05:55 PM
The single hex one and your take on the bridge (RttFF Bridge Wall)
Cura does open it like 1 mm (tiny not printable) and i tried to resize by multiplying 1.75 inches with 25.4 mm but the size is still to small.
What are the exact measurements of the original hex?

It would be so cool to print your creations. Need some snow, street, bridge tiles :)
The distance across the hex is 1.74 inches (4.42 cm) (not including the tabs).

My models are in inches, so if Cura brings it up in mm you just need to magnify it by 25.4.

nukem
February 11th, 2017, 06:19 PM
Okay. But when i am doing this. Length and wideness are the same numbers which seems kinda odd given the attributs of an hexagonal shape. Maybe the interlocking pieces made them equal. But i am also concerning the heigth here. Seems that cura made them 12,5 mm high. Its higher than the normal hex tile...

nukem
February 12th, 2017, 07:49 PM
Cura says x = 2 y = 2 and z = 0.5

i guess thats not exactly what your tiles should be in inches? Seems a little blunt :)

White Knight
February 13th, 2017, 12:15 AM
Cura says x = 2 y = 2 and z = 0.5

i guess thats not exactly what your tiles should be in inches? Seems a little blunt :)
I'll get the dimensions from my solid model and post them tomorrow.

White Knight
February 13th, 2017, 12:40 PM
These are the dimensions of my hex in inches:

http://i795.photobucket.com/albums/yy234/aschlauch/hex%20dimensions_zpsocnml5zl.jpg

Note: from tab to tab (greatest vertical dimensions) the dimension is 1.88 inches.

nukem
February 13th, 2017, 07:58 PM
Thx White Knight. It would be so much easier if cura would just simply read in inches.
But the Ultimaker seems to only read this code :/

You probably know this already but you can set the unit type at export of your stl in many packages so you can keep working in inches but export in mm.

I guess if you have time on your hand you could send me the basic hex file exported to mm. I can then make a printrun with that to see if it fits..

White Knight
February 14th, 2017, 10:31 AM
Thx White Knight. It would be so much easier if cura would just simply read in inches.
But the Ultimaker seems to only read this code :/

You probably know this already but you can set the unit type at export of your stl in many packages so you can keep working in inches but export in mm.

I guess if you have time on your hand you could send me the basic hex file exported to mm. I can then make a printrun with that to see if it fits..Try this one: single hex (https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1pcS5_foAOcNVBpYUJkaVhJcUk/view?usp=sharing)

CREO wouldn't let me export the .stl to a different unit type, so I had to change the unit type in the model properties and then export.

nukem
February 15th, 2017, 05:50 PM
thank you very much and sorry to bother you with my metrics.

this one has the right measurements but is standing on the side.
I rotated it. I think this will fit. It has no texture on the top. Thats a little sad, but i guess i can print it tomorrow. Otherwise i could wait for the ones with texture on them.
Need them for street/bridge tiles and maybe snow :)

White Knight
February 15th, 2017, 10:03 PM
thank you very much and sorry to bother you with my metrics.

this one has the right measurements but is standing on the side.
I rotated it. I think this will fit. It has no texture on the top. Thats a little sad, but i guess i can print it tomorrow. Otherwise i could wait for the ones with texture on them.
Need them for street/bridge tiles and maybe snow :)
Tomorrow I'll take one of the hexes with texture and scale it in Blender. If that works for you, I can scale the ones you want.

nukem
February 16th, 2017, 10:20 AM
that would be so great! I really appreciate your work in making these compatible with Cura and Ultimaker! That way i can start printing them next week ;)

White Knight
February 16th, 2017, 12:23 PM
Try this one:

Heroscape single hex in mm (https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1pcS5_foAOcdkJJSTE3SUxVLUk/view?usp=sharing)

Let me know if that works.

nukem
February 17th, 2017, 10:01 AM
This looks really good. You have printed yours before? The one in inches? How do they fit with the original tiles and water tiles?

I will be printing the last one next week when i am back at the university. about 1m in fillament is needed to print this one out with small support structors. Did you print them hollow?

Will be reporting back with the finished piece.

PS: Are you able to get the other ones you have already posted into mm as well? like the street tiles and the bridge ones next? But wait till i report back to you (save your time which will otherwise be invain) ;)

White Knight
February 17th, 2017, 10:32 AM
This looks really good. You have printed yours before? The one in inches? How do they fit with the original tiles and water tiles?

Yes, I've printed hexes on my printer. They fit pretty well. But I sized them for my printer. Your printer might have different tolerances, so you might have to play a little with the scale.


I will be printing the last one next week when i am back at the university. about 1m in fillament is needed to print this one out with small support structors. Did you print them hollow?
When I printed mine, I printed the hex upside down (without the top lip), printed the top lip separately, and glued them together. On my printer, it was too hard to separate the support material.

Will be reporting back with the finished piece.

PS: Are you able to get the other ones you have already posted into mm as well? like the street tiles and the bridge ones next? But wait till i report back to you (save your time which will otherwise be invain) ;)
Once you confirm that it works well, I can scale the other models for you. It would help to know which models you'd like so that I can focus on those.

nukem
February 17th, 2017, 02:37 PM
street and bridge would be awesome!

nukem
February 19th, 2017, 08:12 PM
Someone got a more detailed version of the "official" trees?

nukem
February 28th, 2017, 03:28 PM
the Ultimaker at my university is currently on maintainance.
Seems i am unable to print anything for a few weeks :(

But atleast in cura it looked perfectly fine.

mcmeeple
March 23rd, 2017, 09:59 AM
This stuff isn't made for Heroscape, but it could be an amazing resource. Especially if hex type bases were made for these buildings to fit on: http://www.printablescenery.com/

Yodaking
March 23rd, 2017, 02:45 PM
So it looks like you buy the 3-D files and then have to print it yourself. After you buy the files, what is to prevent you from sharing the files for free with other people?

*edit* I'm tempted to buy that Viking Longship. Not sure how much gaming I would use it for but it would be a cool way to display some of my Viking miniatures (once I get around to painting some of my Blood Rage minis).

Tornado
March 23rd, 2017, 05:24 PM
Some cool stuff in there. I am tempted to get the ruins. :)

Really cool and good to see and has me thinking what could be done for Heroscape.
If there was some way to inlay the hex pattern into existing designs we would really have something. Basically simulating the top of a Heroscape board.

You would just need to 'remove' the space between the hexes which would allow for hexes to be stacked on top securely.

White Knight
March 23rd, 2017, 06:48 PM
Some cool stuff in there. I am tempted to get the ruins. :)

Really cool and good to see and has me thinking what could be done for Heroscape.
If there was some way to inlay the hex pattern into existing designs we would really have something. Basically simulating the top of a Heroscape board.

You would just need to 'remove' the space between the hexes which would allow for hexes to be stacked on top securely.
Should be easy to do in Blender.

srmalloy
March 24th, 2017, 04:20 PM
This stuff isn't made for Heroscape, but it could be an amazing resource. Especially if hex type bases were made for these buildings to fit on: http://www.printablescenery.com/


If not for the issue of wall thickness, it might be better to go with something built from their Rampage tileset, although for buildings, particularly customizable ones with interiors, something based off the Dragonlock Village kickstarter (pictures of some structures in this forum thread (http://fatdragongames.proboards.com/thread/4083/houses-village-stone?page=1&scrollTo=44887)) might be an alternative; you would need to design a base that would integrate into a Heroscape map to make things fit, though.

ForAiur
April 24th, 2017, 04:54 PM
Hello, I'm new here and want to print some of these tiles on my pretty mediocre 3d printer. The files that are not (in mm) look VERY small. What is the problem with them? How much % do I have to enlarge them to be mm size? And could someone please relink the water tile? The link is dead.

Yodaking
April 24th, 2017, 05:27 PM
I'll send Mementomori a PM about the broken link as it looks like he moved the file somewhere.

White Knight
April 24th, 2017, 11:16 PM
Hello, I'm new here and want to print some of these tiles on my pretty mediocre 3d printer. The files that are not (in mm) look VERY small. What is the problem with them? How much % do I have to enlarge them to be mm size? And could someone please relink the water tile? The link is dead.
Water tile (https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1pcS5_foAOcdkJJSTE3SUxVLUk/view) (mine, not Mementomori's)

Most of my files are in inches, but Repetier and other programs think they are in mm. So I have to scale them by 25.4.

Hopefully that will work. If it doesn't, if you let me know which files, I can try them myself and see what the scaling should be.

ForAiur
April 25th, 2017, 01:05 AM
Hello, I'm new here and want to print some of these tiles on my pretty mediocre 3d printer. The files that are not (in mm) look VERY small. What is the problem with them? How much % do I have to enlarge them to be mm size? And could someone please relink the water tile? The link is dead.
Water tile (https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1pcS5_foAOcdkJJSTE3SUxVLUk/view) (mine, not Mementomori's)

Most of my files are in inches, but Repetier and other programs think they are in mm. So I have to scale them by 25.4.

Hopefully that will work. If it doesn't, if you let me know which files, I can try them myself and see what the scaling should be.

Thnx for your help! I printed a standard tile in mm tonight. It works "ok", but my printer has a problem with the rough rocky surface. Did anyone ever do a heroscape hex with a completely flat top?

White Knight
April 25th, 2017, 01:25 AM
hex with no top (https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1pcS5_foAOcaHo3c1hma3FwQVE/view?usp=sharing) (for printing upside down)

hex top (https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1pcS5_foAOcdkpOMHIyUlQxMWM/view?usp=sharing) (for gluing to top of hex with no top)


For a single hex with a flat top:
hex with flat top (https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1pcS5_foAOcNURmaVYyVHE4OW8/view?usp=sharing)


All in inches. Might need to scale by 25.4

ForAiur
April 25th, 2017, 11:03 AM
Wow. Thanks for your fast help!

I have a FINAL wish ;)

I want to use this for Battletech too, and a Battletech hill would be 4 or 5 Heroscape hexes on top of each other. Could someone just enlengthen the trunk of the hex with no top to a certain length? I would have to check once my first real Heroscape hexes arive in the mail to get a perfect size.

TREX
April 25th, 2017, 11:05 AM
Welcome to the boards ForAiur, I have to know that your name is definitely StarCraft related right?

Porkins
April 25th, 2017, 11:07 AM
Cool name ForAiur. Do you long for combat?

Edit: Doh! :ninja: TREX

TREX
April 25th, 2017, 11:08 AM
Cool name @ForAiur (https://www.heroscapers.com/community/member.php?u=47496). Do you long for combat?

Edit: Doh! :ninja: TREX
Hahahaha. Everyone longs for combat a little bit. That makes me want to finish making my custom protoss zealot figures that I started a while back.

ForAiur
April 25th, 2017, 11:15 AM
It is. But since one of my friends takes Star Craft II like a job I tend to play the lighter games more in multiplayer (like Heroes of the Storm and sometimes Overwatch).

Porkins
April 25th, 2017, 11:37 AM
Cool name @ForAiur (https://www.heroscapers.com/community/member.php?u=47496). Do you long for combat?

Edit: Doh! :ninja: TREX
Hahahaha. Everyone longs for combat a little bit. That makes me want to finish making my custom protoss zealot figures that I started a while back.

Right, because you need more custom figure projects, eh?

White Knight
April 25th, 2017, 11:57 AM
Wow. Thanks for your fast help!

I have a FINAL wish ;)

I want to use this for Battletech too, and a Battletech hill would be 4 or 5 Heroscape hexes on top of each other. Could someone just enlengthen the trunk of the hex with no top to a certain length? I would have to check once my first real Heroscape hexes arive in the mail to get a perfect size.
4 hex height no top (https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1pcS5_foAOcQjhoR1l6bHpqeHM/view?usp=sharing)

5 hex height no top (https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1pcS5_foAOcNm45alRMUG1ZZGM/view?usp=sharing)

Are those what you are looking for?

aksisu11
April 25th, 2017, 12:10 PM
I thought I would share this in this forum, because I feel a lot of Heroscapers could benefit from it.

Recently while scrolling through kickstarter I found this 3D printer. It's a high resolution FDM printer that doesn't have a huge print volume, but that's ok because I don't think thats crucial in printing Heroscape Terrain or figures. The other reason I'm sharing it is because of its different capabilities. You can change out the head to use a laser engraver or CNC head. I'm an engineer so I get pretty excited about things like this, probably way more than most people..

Anyways I think of all the things that can be done with this 3 in 1 machine an it makes me wants to start preparing for its arrival. I will be playing with the idea of making flagbearer dice for the 2 that are missing them. I plan on doing this with the laser engraver and CNC head or maybe 3D printing head. Let me know what you all think! I will then look to CNC'ing out Plexi glass for different color lava, water, shadow, swamp, and custom terrain. The possibilities are literally endless I feel with a 3D printer :)

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/snapmaker/snapmaker-the-all-metal-3d-printer

Porkins
April 25th, 2017, 12:31 PM
Ooh, that's pretty tempting.

ForAiur
April 25th, 2017, 12:34 PM
Wow. You are amazeballs! When googling I found a page where a guy wants 1,60 dollars for the water tile .stl. What has the world come to?

ForAiur
April 25th, 2017, 01:52 PM
I tested it with my self-built terran that is still in battletech standard size (1,25 inch from side to side).

I think level 1 Battletech hills should be 3 heroscape levels and level 2 Battletech hills 5 heroscape levels.

Is there a chance to get the "flat" parts but with the little hexagon on top? Just no "rocky" fancy stuff? but so I can put a mountain on a mountain? Do you get what I mean?

Here are my mech photos for comparison:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/226592/3D-Print%20images/IMG_7603.JPG

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/226592/3D-Print%20images/IMG_7602.JPG

TREX
April 25th, 2017, 01:57 PM
Cool name @ForAiur (https://www.heroscapers.com/community/member.php?u=47496). Do you long for combat?

Edit: Doh! :ninja: TREX
Hahahaha. Everyone longs for combat a little bit. That makes me want to finish making my custom protoss zealot figures that I started a while back.

Right, because you need more custom figure projects, eh?
Not really, I'm so pressed for time as it is. I bought some reaper alien figures that need a slight modification to make some stellar protoss units, but there isn't enough time in a day.:)

ForAiur
April 25th, 2017, 02:00 PM
Could someone do a 2,5 heroscape height one of those mountains? That would solve all my problems :D

White Knight
April 25th, 2017, 06:16 PM
Could someone do a 2,5 heroscape height one of those mountains? That would solve all my problems :D

Heroscape Hex 2.5 (https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1pcS5_foAOcLW5kNXdZN0M3SWc/view?usp=sharing)

I have the hex in CREO, so changing it's height is pretty simple.

TREX
April 26th, 2017, 12:21 AM
Just backed that 3d printer and opted for the cnc and laser module heads. So awesome.

aksisu11
April 26th, 2017, 01:06 AM
Just backed that 3d printer and opted for the cnc and laser module heads. So awesome.
Congrats man! Glad I'm not the only one from this community that was able to jump in and benefit from this project. There's not much time left till it's complete. I'm so excited to see this project kick off.

ForAiur
April 26th, 2017, 01:09 PM
I won't invest because even the 400 dollar Micro sucked at 3d printing so a machine that cheap really can't be precise / good. I learned from the Micro that fancy animated photos don't speak the truth. But I wish that you prove me wrong :D

ForAiur
April 26th, 2017, 01:10 PM
What is CREO? If I can take away some of the work that I load on your shoulders because of my beggin I will do :D

Tornado
April 26th, 2017, 01:18 PM
I won't invest because even the 400 dollar Micro sucked at 3d printing so a machine that cheap really can't be precise / good. I learned from the Micro that fancy animated photos don't speak the truth. But I wish that you prove me wrong :D

I went in on a Micro also. :(

White Knight
April 26th, 2017, 01:34 PM
What is CREO? If I can take away some of the work that I load on your shoulders because of my beggin I will do :D
CREO is the new name for ProEngineering 3D modelling program. There should be a free download for educational purposes (good enough to make .stl files), but it can't import files I made on CREO professional. Also, it has a pretty steep learning curve.

I could also have just stretched the parts in Blender. Blender is not as precise, but it's free and pretty easy to use.

ForAiur
April 26th, 2017, 03:28 PM
BLENDER! EASY!?!?!?! Haha, I taught myself WEEKS to use blender to do stuff for Tabletop Simulator, but after 1 year I know NOTHING! (You could say I'm the John Snow of Blender now).

MementoMori
April 26th, 2017, 05:14 PM
Blender has a steep learning curve, but once you start getting a grip there's no limit to what can be done.

Yodaking
April 26th, 2017, 05:36 PM
I won't invest because even the 400 dollar Micro sucked at 3d printing so a machine that cheap really can't be precise / good. I learned from the Micro that fancy animated photos don't speak the truth. But I wish that you prove me wrong :D

I went in on a Micro also. :(

I haven't used my Micro in forever. It wasn't too bad for printing simple items but the more complex the item got the more problems I had with it. The biggest problems I had with it was the software that came with it didn't allow for precision scaling. You could grow or shrink the files before printing but it was random as to the scale. I was expecting a system where I could input the dimensions I wanted so I could print things in the proper scale for my miniature games. Printing something off just to find out it was too big or too small and then printing it again grew frustrating as it wasted too much plastic. I'm sure I'll return to using it again at some point, I just get easily distracted by other things.

Tornado
April 26th, 2017, 06:02 PM
Good to know YK. I have actually never used mine but after reading reviews of it, I was not in a hurry to try it out.

Did you try printing Heroscape tiles with the Micro?

Maybe we could team up to figure out the proper scaling.

Yodaking
April 27th, 2017, 04:04 AM
No, all the HS tile files were made available to me long after I had set it aside while cleaning up and I have not pulled it back out again since. I actually have not tried any of the files out in the index yet. I just pulled a bunch of files off thingverse and a few other sites.

TREX
April 27th, 2017, 09:25 AM
I was able to snag a random early bird that came available on that new printer to get 50 bucks knocked off.:) I ended up getting the laser etcher and the cnc module too. That laser engraver is going to make some sweet custom dice.

Tornado
April 27th, 2017, 09:35 AM
Could you link that TREX? Thanks.

TREX
April 27th, 2017, 11:45 AM
Could you link that TREX? Thanks.
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/snapmaker/snapmaker-the-all-metal-3d-printer/description

Tornado
April 27th, 2017, 02:24 PM
Thanks! 20 hours to go. Drats, not much time to make a decision there.
I suppose I should not buy another 3D printer I will never use. :)

mac122
April 27th, 2017, 05:02 PM
Could you link that TREX? Thanks.
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/snapmaker/snapmaker-the-all-metal-3d-printer/description
This looks so cool. I wonder if my wife would kill me outright or just maim me if I pledged. :ponder:

Tornado
April 27th, 2017, 05:20 PM
Trying to convince my friend to go in again but he is gun shy from the M3D. :)

White Knight
April 28th, 2017, 12:14 PM
single hex height 1 (https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B1pcS5_foAOcS1o4emVDQktsaWc)

single hex height 2 (https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B1pcS5_foAOcQ1UyLVg1R0p6a1k)

single hex height 3 (https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B1pcS5_foAOcaTk0RjdfSkh6dVE)

single hex height 4 (https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B1pcS5_foAOcNnN0SGFQLVdrYUE)

single hex height 5 (https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B1pcS5_foAOcWDdXeGx6Ri12MVE)

single hex height 6 (https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B1pcS5_foAOcZ2x6WFNsbVZJYms)

ForAiur
May 2nd, 2017, 03:21 AM
Trying to convince my friend to go in again but he is gun shy from the M3D. :)

After putting some aluminum foil around my heater element in my micro he is printing pretty well again! I'm very happy!

I'll post a picture of the files that White Knight has uploaded. The hexes you see that have a structured top are the files originally posted on page 1 of this thread (I will only use the flat ones, they are a lot sturdier under the top and all around).

ForAiur
May 2nd, 2017, 03:35 AM
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/226592/3D-Print%20images/BT%20Heroscape%20White%20Knight%20Hexes.jpg

Settings in Cura are 220 degrees, support structures active, and "brim" as a base. Since this means that the hex "top" is printed on the bottom my tops will be a little bit rough, but a lot better than the tops you see in the picture because those were printed with a RAFT under the print and the raft sometimes couldn't get removed completely.

ForAiur
May 2nd, 2017, 03:36 AM
The middle hex of the ones in the front is the first one that was printed with a brim directly on the print surface (my print surface has a hole burnt in the middle). Still the best one until now. Will now start printing a lot 2 and 4 height hexes with these settings.

THANKS KNIGHT !!!

White Knight
May 2nd, 2017, 11:03 AM
The middle hex of the ones in the front is the first one that was printed with a brim directly on the print surface (my print surface has a hole burnt in the middle). Still the best one until now. Will now start printing a lot 2 and 4 height hexes with these settings.

THANKS KNIGHT !!!You're welcome!
Glad to see these being used.

I kind of like the texture on the tops of the hexes, but I understand the difficulty removing the support material.

MementoMori
May 3rd, 2017, 06:56 AM
I print with the support inside, it's more wasted material, but it looks better in the end.

TREX
May 12th, 2017, 07:01 PM
You know what would be cool in here. If someone 3d Printed a glyph. How many projects have a bunch of utility glyphs and treasure glyphs. I'm thinking about 3CG and HOSS right now. How cool would it be to print out glyphs and then glue your custom glyphs on there instead of kill all of the official ones. And...you could do them in whatever colors you wanted.

White Knight
May 12th, 2017, 09:34 PM
GLYPH 3d model (https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1pcS5_foAOcTXhXbmxWUXZCT2M/view?usp=sharing)

mac122
May 12th, 2017, 09:47 PM
You know what would be cool in here. If someone 3d Printed a glyph. How many projects have a bunch of utility glyphs and treasure glyphs. I'm thinking about 3CG and HOSS right now. How cool would it be to print out glyphs and then glue your custom glyphs on there instead of kill all of the official ones. And...you could do them in whatever colors you wanted.

GLYPH 3d model (https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1pcS5_foAOcTXhXbmxWUXZCT2M/view?usp=sharing)
Don't know how much it would cost to print, but Auggie's (http://auggiesgamestore.crystalcommerce.com/products/search?q=heroscape+glyph) still has a few hundred glyphs available for about a quarter each. All treasure glyphs.

ForAiur
August 8th, 2017, 04:37 PM
After years I finally got a good 3d printer. Now that I'm going into mass production ;) I wonder if it was meant to be that the heroscape tiles posted here do not really interlock. You can still move them out of the way. Was this intended? It's a bit sad because big hill structures that I wanted to build for Battletech won't be as stable as original heroscape tiles. Using your files White Knight.

White Knight
August 8th, 2017, 05:14 PM
After years I finally got a good 3d printer. Now that I'm going into mass production ;) I wonder if it was meant to be that the heroscape tiles posted here do not really interlock. You can still move them out of the way. Was this intended? It's a bit sad because big hill structures that I wanted to build for Battletech won't be as stable as original heroscape tiles. Using your files White Knight.
Are you talking about side-locking or stacking on top of other structures? They should side-lock to adjacent tiles. If they slide while stacking, I can probably adjust the tiles to fit better.

Which files are you using and where don't they interlock?

ForAiur
August 8th, 2017, 05:20 PM
Side-locking isn't as with the original tiles. They are able to get into the ridges of the other tile, but you can just drag them out again, not as with original heroscape where you had to move stuff up or down to disconnect it.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/tuefn0bhobuckr9/AAAY6C_Ldb0qOkwImvw66AmRa?dl=0

I'm using the files you made for me and multiply the size by 2540 to move it from pixels or whatever that is to inches.

White Knight
August 8th, 2017, 06:51 PM
Side-locking isn't as with the original tiles. They are able to get into the ridges of the other tile, but you can just drag them out again, not as with original heroscape where you had to move stuff up or down to disconnect it.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/tuefn0bhobuckr9/AAAY6C_Ldb0qOkwImvw66AmRa?dl=0

I'm using the files you made for me and multiply the size by 2540 to move it from pixels or whatever that is to inches.
3d printers have different tolerances. My 3d printer seems to print things such as holes and outer perimeters slightly bigger.

How is the rest of the tile? Try surrounding it with other tiles and see if it is a loose or tight fit. If it's loose, maybe you can increase the size just a little more. (Your conversion ratio seems right: on my printer, I have to multiply by 25.4 to convert to inches.)

If the tile is the right size, but the tabs are loose, let me know. I have the hex modeled in Pro Engineer and it's an easy change to increase the size of the tabs. If you can snap a picture to show me how loose they are, that would help even more. :)

ForAiur
August 12th, 2017, 04:06 AM
Here you can see some photos and a video of the parts. The ones on my worse printe r(M3D) were a BIIIIT more scratching at each other when I was moving them apart, but they were also clearly not holding on to each other.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/k9ptq9ptkt1p1tn/AAC1kmxYUFg_6-PLMN1G5Ilua?dl=0

White Knight
August 14th, 2017, 10:21 AM
Here you can see some photos and a video of the parts. The ones on my worse printe r(M3D) were a BIIIIT more scratching at each other when I was moving them apart, but they were also clearly not holding on to each other.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/k9ptq9ptkt1p1tn/AAC1kmxYUFg_6-PLMN1G5Ilua?dl=0
I can adjust to fix that.

One more question: How do the tiles mesh with standard Heroscape tiles?

I found that the tiles were tighter with Heroscape tiles than with other 3D printed tiles. If that is the case, then we'll need to determine where they are tight and where they are loose so that I know where to adjust.

ForAiur
August 14th, 2017, 12:18 PM
Uploaded a photo and a video with original tiles into the already linked Dropbox folder. It's the same or maybe a little bit better, but in no way close to gripping like real HS ties. I'm slowly starting to get into 3D modelling and I'm thinking that it would be best to model an original HS tile 1:1 so also the parts at the bottom are broader than the parts at the top etc. But I will need some weeks to get to that level.

Leaf_It
September 15th, 2017, 05:50 AM
Would it be possible to update the OP to remove the curse of the photobucket?

Yodaking
September 15th, 2017, 07:17 AM
Would it be possible to update the OP to remove the curse of the photobucket?

Done. It would be nice to have pics showing what all those files look like though so if new pics can be provided I can add those in.

White Knight
September 15th, 2017, 10:23 AM
Would it be possible to update the OP to remove the curse of the photobucket?

Done. It would be nice to have pics showing what all those files look like though so if new pics can be provided I can add those in.
Yeah, I've been meaning to transfer my photos to another host. I'll make it a goal to do it over the next two months.

Yodaking
September 15th, 2017, 03:08 PM
Cool. If anyone posts any new images to replace the ones Photobucket stole from us, be sure to label what it is using the same description I have for the file so I put those images in the correct place. Thanks!

White Knight
September 22nd, 2017, 11:51 PM
Wo-sa-ga please! That should be easy, and it's soooo expensive :(

Wo-Sa-Ga (https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1pcS5_foAOcNlh0eHFlRnV6a2s/view?usp=sharing)

MementoMori
September 23rd, 2017, 08:12 PM
Wo-sa-ga please! That should be easy, and it's soooo expensive :(

Wo-Sa-Ga (https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1pcS5_foAOcNlh0eHFlRnV6a2s/view?usp=sharing)

Niice!!

ForAiur
September 30th, 2017, 05:24 PM
A kickstarter by Fat Dragon Games will provide hill tiles that can be resized to Heroscape size. They aren't compatible but since Fat Dragon Games makes such good models I bet there will be a lot of modifications and add ons to these hill tiles later on. I pledged:

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1679800548/dragonlock-3-dangerous-lairs

MementoMori
October 3rd, 2017, 06:34 PM
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1492/26622165565_a037ca804b_k.jpg
Just realized that these are not in the index.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1515/26556843551_e9f28e9f1d_b.jpg

Still needs some tweaks to make it even closer to the original. This was quickly done superimposing some photos in blender so it's not real accurate.

Download (https://www.dropbox.com/s/3v7lbm2ksorio79/outcrop.stl?dl=0)

About the print. 0.1mm 0% infill, printed without problems in 1h 30m. Could be much faster if I had set bottom layers to 0.

And the 3 hex outcrop:
Download (https://www.dropbox.com/s/06s5ugzjeafsmsv/outcrop3_123d.stl?dl=0)

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7208/27076924712_887cf84d77_b.jpg
Original (left) vs. Scan (right)

Yodaking
October 4th, 2017, 04:03 PM
Updated. Are these flat bottomed or do they have little pegs for the base? If they have pegs, is there a base tile with the corresponding holes in it I can place in the same section?

White Knight
October 4th, 2017, 04:20 PM
Updated. Are these flat bottomed or do they have little pegs for the base? If they have pegs, is there a base tile with the corresponding holes in it I can place in the same section?
Flat bottomed.

digitallimit
February 6th, 2018, 03:54 PM
Hey Heroscapers

I recently got into 3D printing and Heroscape around the same time, so I decided to start making some Heroscape prints!

Battle for the Underdark seemed like a good place to start since it's such a prohibitively expensive set. I noticed there was a solid single Rock Outcrop design, but only a melty-looking scan of the 3 Hex Rock Outcrop, so I made a new version using the single hex design as a base:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2759935

https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/64/d9/89/03/5d/2fb1162838a371d60575e7c95e95ae23_preview_featured.jpg

I've also republished the single hex Rock Outcrop for completeness. I'll be working on a new version of the Ticalla Jungle tiles next, as well larger rock outcrops for recreating the Tundra pieces as well. Which is to say, there's more to come!

Yodaking
February 6th, 2018, 04:34 PM
Awesome, I'll update the list with your link and pic.

aksisu11
February 6th, 2018, 05:46 PM
Wow man!! Those files look awesome man! Out of curiosity do you design the outcrops, or do you use a 3D scanner to capture the outcrops?

superfrog
February 7th, 2018, 10:47 AM
Wow that looks great. Incredible, really.

Side note: where at in LA? I'm moving there soon.

digitallimit
February 7th, 2018, 08:39 PM
Wow that looks great. Incredible, really.

Side note: where at in LA? I'm moving there soon.

Just outside Culver City; it's a good centralized location.

Awesome, I'll update the list with your link and pic.

Thanks!

Wow man!! Those files look awesome man! Out of curiosity do you design the outcrops, or do you use a 3D scanner to capture the outcrops?

I used the outcrop from the original post to generate a larger outcrop. I am not a rock-making talent by any stretch.

digitallimit
February 8th, 2018, 04:54 AM
I put together the Heroscape Glacier (4 Hex) from Thaelenk Tundra (although again it's using the base Rock Outcrop model as a brush) and a definitive Heroscape Water Tile since I wasn't super happy with any of the other water tiles I've printed.

The water tile especially took a lot of trial and error as I found a happy medium between interlocking and stability and ease of assembly/disassembly.

Glacier (4 Hex) (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2786045)

https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/d0/67/32/7d/31/17c9ab6eecaed9c9a3218dc677e900f9_preview_featured.jpg

Water Tile (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2786200)

https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/8b/ef/e3/57/e1/8a2255881975053d2cd1ab14ca04b351_preview_featured.JPG

digitallimit
February 8th, 2018, 03:53 PM
Heroscape Glacier (6 Hex) (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2786988)

https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/bb/c0/b9/b7/5f/ae49516d654132ba823514cc4bc5341a_preview_featured.jpg

This is my first multi-part print! It's huge (130 long, 150mm high).

I've created a scaled version in two parts, or a full version which comes in three parts. And of course you can just print the base model if you are blessed with a larger print bed, but I'm not so fortunate.

White Knight
February 9th, 2018, 09:57 AM
Thanks for doing these!

Yodaking
February 9th, 2018, 01:57 PM
updated

TREX
February 9th, 2018, 09:08 PM
Really great man.

TREX
May 4th, 2018, 05:52 PM
King_Buyer. I believe this is the thread your after for the stl files.

GeneralRolando
July 5th, 2018, 05:22 PM
I've been using a lot of these files to put my newer printer through it's paces. I must first say that so many of these models are REALLY well done, especially the outcrops by digitallimit. Well done all around. I made a couple slight edits to the water tiles to improve interlockability but I wouldn't have been able to do it without the base models here. Once I've perfected my settings I hope to explore some more designs that I have flowing around in my head. Thanks for all your guys' work.

Tornado
July 5th, 2018, 05:26 PM
What printer do you have?

GeneralRolando
July 5th, 2018, 06:08 PM
What printer do you have?
Folgertech FT-5 R2

Tornado
July 5th, 2018, 06:12 PM
Never heard of it. Thanks. :)

GeneralRolando
July 5th, 2018, 06:50 PM
It's a DIY printer that takes about a day to put together but I have gotten some fantastic results so far. I'm continually impressed by it. Can't wait to get to printing some high detail stuff to see what it looks like.

TREX
July 5th, 2018, 10:52 PM
I've been using a lot of these files to put my newer printer through it's paces. I must first say that so many of these models are REALLY well done, especially the outcrops by digitallimit. Well done all around. I made a couple slight edits to the water tiles to improve interlockability but I wouldn't have been able to do it without the base models here. Once I've perfected my settings I hope to explore some more designs that I have flowing around in my head. Thanks for all your guys' work.

I agree that the rock outcrops are super awesome. Im printing another set of glaciers right now. The two sets of Dungeon outcrops I printed for prizes at the last Utah Monthly tournament were a huge success. I just finished printing the 4 hex glacier and it looks magnificent. Totally stoked about these. My Snapmaker has been rolling around the clock making me tons of cool toys. I'm seriously thinking about getting another one when they come out with one with a bigger work area. Id also like to throw out a thank you to all of our scaper 3d print artists that share their work for all us scapers to enjoy.

Tornado
July 20th, 2018, 06:32 PM
Just saw these from HyGround. Completely awesome.

https://www.heroscapers.com/community/gallery/files/4/5/9/8/8/img_6344.jpg

Yodaking
July 20th, 2018, 09:30 PM
Yeah, those wooden platforms are pretty sweet. Makes me think of the Ewok Village on Endor. Turn one of the Castle Wall pieces into a big oak tree and have those platforms going around the tree to the top where it links in to a bridge to another tree with a hut on top of it.

b57123m
July 31st, 2018, 12:12 PM
HyGround 3D Printable Tabletop Gaming Terrain, via @Kickstarter https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/yetimilitiagames/hyground-3d-printable-tabletop-gaming-terrain


Their 3d printable kickstarter just went live. I'm backing for the hexes to use in Heroscape and the squares to use for Dungeons and Dragons.

Yodaking
July 31st, 2018, 02:51 PM
Some pretty impressive models for sure.

b57123m
July 31st, 2018, 03:46 PM
Brease also made a post up near the top of the forum.

Brease
August 3rd, 2018, 02:28 PM
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/yetimilitiagames/hyground-3d-printable-tabletop-gaming-terrain

Our HyGround tiles are made to be 3D printed and have connectors for Heroscape tiles. Take a look at our Kickstarter, We've already funded.

TREX
August 3rd, 2018, 10:08 PM
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/yetimilitiagames/hyground-3d-printable-tabletop-gaming-terrain

Our HyGround tiles are made to be 3D printed and have connectors for Heroscape tiles. Take a look at our Kickstarter, We've already funded.

Ive seen this ks everywhere. I dont know how many threads on heroscapers alone that its popped up. I wish you guys the best of luck. Heres a suggestion that may help you guys. I would give out a sample tile for people to try to see if it would work for them on their printer. Biggest thing I wouldnt like is if I bought in just to find out my printer couldnt handle it. Might just get a few people off that fence.

dukeadam
August 16th, 2018, 07:36 AM
Hi, are the links in the first post up to date? I would like to use them for third-party printing and I would like to be sure to fit Heroscape terrain, as it might be quite expensive.


Are all files in both inches and mm? Is there any difference (shouldn't be as 1 inch is 2,54 mm, but I know nothing about 3d printing)?


Which would you recommend for trying out first for a third-party print? I would really love to get RttFF stuff and Glaciers...

White Knight
August 16th, 2018, 09:31 AM
Hi, are the links in the first post up to date? I would like to use them for third-party printing and I would like to be sure to fit Heroscape terrain, as it might be quite expensive.


Are all files in both inches and mm? Is there any difference (shouldn't be as 1 inch is 2,54 mm, but I know nothing about 3d printing)?


Which would you recommend for trying out first for a third-party print? I would really love to get RttFF stuff and Glaciers...
The files should be up to date. If you find a broken link, let us know.

Most of my files are in inches. Some others might be in mm or cm. When you load the model into the 3d printer program, check to see if it looks about the right size. If it looks tiny, scale it by 25.4 (2540%).

If it still looks wrong, try 2.54 or 10. (2.54 If you printer program is in cm. 10 if the files are in cm and your printer in mm.)

Brease
August 23rd, 2018, 10:22 PM
https://www.facebook.com/hygroundtiles/videos/1947437402222709/UzpfSTk3NzY5MjM5MjM1NjAxMDoxMTI0MDgzOTE3NzE2ODU2/?comment_id=1124085101050071&reply_comment_id=1124105387714709&notif_id=1535069780749277&notif_t=group_comment

MementoMori
September 13th, 2018, 08:17 AM
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1869/29716287927_76836b406c_o.jpg

I still don't have the needed time or space to 'Scape again, but I've got enough to revive an old project. This time I won't stop until it's finished.

This time I'm having some problems applying a displacement map to the top of the leaf. After that the trouble will be printing them, but that's all that's left.

edit: I don't know why the picture shows sideways...

First printing test to see if the design method is viable. Not as good as I wished, but somewhat as expected.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1893/29722859967_89775c7d3a_o.jpg
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1876/43941976974_08b1fc3e9a_o.jpg

TREX
September 13th, 2018, 04:04 PM
They look fantastic.

White Knight
September 13th, 2018, 04:58 PM
Looks great to me, but I bet it took a while to trim off the support material. The leaves might be better to print flat and then put in hot water or use a heat gun to warp them.

superfrog
September 13th, 2018, 05:11 PM
Oooh. The hardest part of proxy jungle has always been recreating the tree leaves. This is cool.

MementoMori
September 13th, 2018, 05:22 PM
Looks great to me, but I bet it took a while to trim off the support material. The leaves might be better to print flat and then put in hot water or use a heat gun to warp them.

You're totally right, there's lots of support and without a great printer it can be a serious problem to remove.

The problem is that I'm trying to do it as close as possible to the original. And as I used a cenital shot to outline the leaves, if I printed them flat they'd be shorter after bending them.

Once I have all 4 leaf pieces design I'll polish the print process. Maybe vertical print with manual supports for higher detail. If everything goes ok, I expect to have this done in three of four days. And after that, some custom stuff.

MementoMori
September 14th, 2018, 01:25 PM
Progress report:
Made some changes to the design, now it's sturdier and more detailed. Printing it at 75ļ yielded great results, with supports easier to remove and recesses showing up better.

I'm so happy with the progress done that now I'm moving to the next levels of leaves and the pin. Also I have an sketch for easy-fast prints once everything is done.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1875/44628738862_4c65a9d9e6_o.jpghttps://farm2.staticflickr.com/1861/29740057267_065060a22c_o.jpg
On the last picture: Original - first scale test - second print test

I believe Ticalla has been the greatest pain to proxy (terrain wise). People living outside the U.S. like me spent a good a mount to get these, so I'm very excited about making this available to all new and old Heroscape fans.

Elstree
October 16th, 2018, 03:18 PM
I've been getting into 3d printing for HeroScape lately. One of the most recent things I've printed are srmalloy's waterfalls. They came out great!

https://www.heroscapers.com/community/gallery/files/3/3/hs_waterfalls_3d_printed.jpg (https://www.heroscapers.com/community/gallery/showimage.php?i=21521&c=9)

Using Cura, I rescaled his files to 10%, then duplicated the objects to print several at once. Then I imported the .stl files into Makerbot Print to save them as makerbot files. Following my first attempt I realized you'll get a cleaner surface on the visible portion if you arrange them back-to-back, as you see above. This is because as the print head moves up and prints each successive layer it sometimes leaves a little strand of plastic as it moves from one object to the next. The bit connecting them at the base is the "raft" which helps keep the object steady on the print surface during printing. Here's one removed from the raft (but I still have a little clean-up to do):

https://www.heroscapers.com/community/gallery/files/3/3/hs_waterfall_height_4.jpg (https://www.heroscapers.com/community/gallery/showimage.php?i=21520&c=9)

Thanks, srmalloy!

superfrog
October 16th, 2018, 03:22 PM
An Elstree sighting? What is this, 2010?

Yodaking
October 16th, 2018, 03:29 PM
If you upload the back to back file I can link it for others.

Elstree
October 16th, 2018, 03:49 PM
I'll try to do that in the next few days. On my home computer I have files for height 2, 3, and 4 formatted for three to a job (like the shortest falls in the first photo), but my files for the height 5, 6, 7, and 8 falls are just two because the university I work for has a 30g limit for personal print jobs. I can do three-ups for all of them, which will probably be more useful for folks here.

I also want to check and make sure srmalloy's ok with folks posting derivative work from his files. I want to be clear, this is all his work. What I've done is basically like changing the margins or font on a Word doc.

shaolin
October 16th, 2018, 04:12 PM
This is because as the print head moves up and prints each successive layer it sometimes leaves a little strand of plastic as it moves from one object to the next.
3D printing is my favorite thing to do lately so I’ll take any chance to talk about it. This might be fixable. I’ve been playing with my retraction and extrusion settings lately and getting much better results. Also if you use Cura there’s an option to “retract at layer change” that might help. I’ve been having problems with the pieces breaking easily so I upped the temp to 220 degrees, so turned extrusion down to 95%. Retraction is set at 6mm (Ender 3, so settings may not apply). And I think I upped the print speed a little too, it was leaving pimples when the hot end was touching for too long, think I’m up to around 35 mm/s. I’m still getting some stringing, gotta tackle that next, but the layers have been very smooth and even. Have you messed with any of those settings to try and tweak it?

Elstree
October 16th, 2018, 04:24 PM
This is because as the print head moves up and prints each successive layer it sometimes leaves a little strand of plastic as it moves from one object to the next.
3D printing is my favorite thing to do lately so Iíll take any chance to talk about it. This might be fixable. Iíve been playing with my retraction and extrusion settings lately and getting much better results. Also if you use Cura thereís an option to ďretract at layer changeĒ that might help. Iíve been having problems with the pieces breaking easily so I upped the temp to 200 degrees, so turned extrusion down to 95%. Retraction is set at 6mm (Ender 3, so settings may not apply). And I think I upped the print speed a little too, it was leaving pimples when the hot end was touching for too long, think Iím up to around 35 mm/s. Iím still getting some stringing, gotta tackle that next, but the layers have been very smooth and even. Have you messed with any of those settings to try and tweak it?

Unfortunately I don't have any control over any of this. I submit the file through a webpage, then pick up the finished product about five days later when the university's 3d print lab gets around to my stuff. (Personal print jobs understandably have lower priority than those submitted by students for classes.)

I'm just using Cura as a very basic editing tool for rescaling, duplication, rotating, and repositioning. I have to save the file in makerbot format before submission because the university's machines are Makerbot 5th Gens. About the only things I have control over are whether to use rafts, supports, and what color filament I want.

shaolin
October 16th, 2018, 05:12 PM
Booooo university! Lol

In that case, some pointy tweezers and an emery board are probably all you can do. That’s what I’ve been using to clean up the bumps from the strings as I play with the settings. Pull ‘em off and file ‘em down.

Elstree
October 17th, 2018, 03:11 PM
I uploaded some pictures of the waterfalls in action. The first shows them with traditional HeroScape figures. The second to shows how different figures and scenery completely change the perceived scale. (Note the rough surface on the tallest waterfall, which I have yet to clean up. This is what happens if you print that side facing another tall object. Compare it to the surface of the medium waterfall, which was printed back-to-back with another the same height.)

https://www.heroscapers.com/community/gallery/files/3/3/waterfall_demo_with_hs_figs.jpg (https://www.heroscapers.com/community/gallery/showimage.php?i=21522)

https://www.heroscapers.com/community/gallery/files/3/3/waterfall_demo_with_mw_figs.jpg (https://www.heroscapers.com/community/gallery/showimage.php?i=21523)

(Clicking on an image should take you to the gallery page where you can view the original image.)

Yodaking
October 17th, 2018, 04:06 PM
Some of us have been talking about a giant sized scape project (https://www.heroscapers.com/community/showthread.php?t=55163) where the scale of 1 hex is based on hundreds to feet rather then less then 10 feet. That second picture you posted seems to be right in the same scale range we've been talking about. Stop by and share your thoughts and custom terrain some time.

TREX
October 17th, 2018, 09:14 PM
That stuff looks great Elstree. I actually like them next to regular scale heroscape. They are more like little streams and fountains rather than raging waterfalls, but I like how it looks.

Dad_Scaper
October 17th, 2018, 09:50 PM
Those are gorgeous, elstree! Please come to the tournament on 11/3 and bring them! And also bring bunjee! :)

Elstree
October 24th, 2018, 01:38 PM
Quick question: Has anyone tried printing srmalloy's flat-topped "tree base" tiles from thingiverse, the ones found here:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1789245

(Note, they have to be rescaled to 10% size for most software, but that's not the problem.)

I printed a set out (at least up to those no larger than four hexes - the most I can print for free at my university). On a flat surface of heroscape tiles they fit great - there's a little bit of extra tolerance, so they slide around just a hair but that's not really a problem.

The problem is the lip around the edge is too wide and extends into the gutter such that they can't be placed adjacent to regular tiles. That is, you can't place them against "cliffs" or other elevated terrain. (Well, you can get one edge up against another tile, but two or more and it won't fit any longer.)

I was hoping someone might have already fixed the problem and have .stl files to share. I installed Blender with the thought that I might try editing the files myself, but to say Blender has a steep learning curve is an understatement.

Porkins
October 24th, 2018, 03:00 PM
I think TREX has been tacking models onto a tree base.

TREX
October 24th, 2018, 08:50 PM
Quick question: Has anyone tried printing srmalloy's flat-topped "tree base" tiles from thingiverse, the ones found here:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1789245

(Note, they have to be rescaled to 10% size for most software, but that's not the problem.)

I printed a set out (at least up to those no larger than four hexes - the most I can print for free at my university). On a flat surface of heroscape tiles they fit great - there's a little bit of extra tolerance, so they slide around just a hair but that's not really a problem.

The problem is the lip around the edge is too wide and extends into the gutter such that they can't be placed adjacent to regular tiles. That is, you can't place them against "cliffs" or other elevated terrain. (Well, you can get one edge up against another tile, but two or more and it won't fit any longer.)

I was hoping someone might have already fixed the problem and have .stl files to share. I installed Blender with the thought that I might try editing the files myself, but to say Blender has a steep learning curve is an understatement.
Ive been using these for tons of custom terrain and objects and think they're amazing. Ive probably printed over 100 of these so far.:) what you could do to snug them up is simple. You are correct that you have to scale them down to 10% of their size. If you wanted it a hair more snug just take the scale down to 9.7% or 9.8% and it should fix it right up.

Elstree
October 24th, 2018, 09:30 PM
Quick question: Has anyone tried printing srmalloy's flat-topped "tree base" tiles from thingiverse, the ones found here:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1789245

(Note, they have to be rescaled to 10% size for most software, but that's not the problem.)

I printed a set out (at least up to those no larger than four hexes - the most I can print for free at my university). On a flat surface of heroscape tiles they fit great - there's a little bit of extra tolerance, so they slide around just a hair but that's not really a problem.

The problem is the lip around the edge is too wide and extends into the gutter such that they can't be placed adjacent to regular tiles. That is, you can't place them against "cliffs" or other elevated terrain. (Well, you can get one edge up against another tile, but two or more and it won't fit any longer.)

I was hoping someone might have already fixed the problem and have .stl files to share. I installed Blender with the thought that I might try editing the files myself, but to say Blender has a steep learning curve is an understatement.
Ive been using these for tons of custom terrain and objects and think they're amazing. Ive probably printed over 100 of these so far.:) what you could do to snug them up is simple. You are correct that you have to scale them down to 10% of their size. If you wanted it a hair more snug just take the scale down to 9.7% or 9.8% and it should fix it right up.

I've actually tried that. I rescaled a single hex to 9.75%. That allowed a single hex to fit adjacent to regular tiles, albeit it's a tight fit. I was afraid though that with the larger tiles (especially the long, straight 5-hex base tile) that it might be too much over that distance and no longer fit over the hex tops underneath.

To be clear, what I want to do is not to make them fit more snugly to the tops of the underlying hexes. I want to reduce the exterior dimension so that they don't intrude as far into the hex gutter so that they can sit right up against cliff faces.

White Knight
October 24th, 2018, 10:34 PM
Quick question: Has anyone tried printing srmalloy's flat-topped "tree base" tiles from thingiverse, the ones found here:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1789245

(Note, they have to be rescaled to 10% size for most software, but that's not the problem.)

I printed a set out (at least up to those no larger than four hexes - the most I can print for free at my university). On a flat surface of heroscape tiles they fit great - there's a little bit of extra tolerance, so they slide around just a hair but that's not really a problem.

The problem is the lip around the edge is too wide and extends into the gutter such that they can't be placed adjacent to regular tiles. That is, you can't place them against "cliffs" or other elevated terrain. (Well, you can get one edge up against another tile, but two or more and it won't fit any longer.)

I was hoping someone might have already fixed the problem and have .stl files to share. I installed Blender with the thought that I might try editing the files myself, but to say Blender has a steep learning curve is an understatement.
Ive been using these for tons of custom terrain and objects and think they're amazing. Ive probably printed over 100 of these so far.:) what you could do to snug them up is simple. You are correct that you have to scale them down to 10% of their size. If you wanted it a hair more snug just take the scale down to 9.7% or 9.8% and it should fix it right up.

I've actually tried that. I rescaled a single hex to 9.75%. That allowed a single hex to fit adjacent to regular tiles, albeit it's a tight fit. I was afraid though that with the larger tiles (especially the long, straight 5-hex base tile) that it might be too much over that distance and no longer fit over the hex tops underneath.

To be clear, what I want to do is not to make them fit more snugly to the tops of the underlying hexes. I want to reduce the exterior dimension so that they don't intrude as far into the hex gutter so that they can sit right up against cliff faces.
I took a look at the files and they don't have any radii, so it's just moving some points around.

Do you want me to do it for you, or do you want a quick Blender tutorial on how to do it? It's really not that hard in Blender.

Elstree
October 24th, 2018, 10:50 PM
Quick question: Has anyone tried printing srmalloy's flat-topped "tree base" tiles from thingiverse, the ones found here:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1789245

(Note, they have to be rescaled to 10% size for most software, but that's not the problem.)

I printed a set out (at least up to those no larger than four hexes - the most I can print for free at my university). On a flat surface of heroscape tiles they fit great - there's a little bit of extra tolerance, so they slide around just a hair but that's not really a problem.

The problem is the lip around the edge is too wide and extends into the gutter such that they can't be placed adjacent to regular tiles. That is, you can't place them against "cliffs" or other elevated terrain. (Well, you can get one edge up against another tile, but two or more and it won't fit any longer.)

I was hoping someone might have already fixed the problem and have .stl files to share. I installed Blender with the thought that I might try editing the files myself, but to say Blender has a steep learning curve is an understatement.
Ive been using these for tons of custom terrain and objects and think they're amazing. Ive probably printed over 100 of these so far.:) what you could do to snug them up is simple. You are correct that you have to scale them down to 10% of their size. If you wanted it a hair more snug just take the scale down to 9.7% or 9.8% and it should fix it right up.

I've actually tried that. I rescaled a single hex to 9.75%. That allowed a single hex to fit adjacent to regular tiles, albeit it's a tight fit. I was afraid though that with the larger tiles (especially the long, straight 5-hex base tile) that it might be too much over that distance and no longer fit over the hex tops underneath.

To be clear, what I want to do is not to make them fit more snugly to the tops of the underlying hexes. I want to reduce the exterior dimension so that they don't intrude as far into the hex gutter so that they can sit right up against cliff faces.
I took a look at the files and they don't have any radii, so it's just moving some points around.

Do you want me to do it for you, or do you want a quick Blender tutorial on how to do it? It's really not that hard in Blender.

Give a man a fish/teach a man to fish...

I'll take the Blender lesson, if it's not too much trouble. :)

If you can describe what would need to be done to rescale, say, the two-hex tile I can probably figure it out for the rest of them.

I already have the .stls rescaled down to 10% from the original so you can start there if you like.

White Knight
October 25th, 2018, 06:47 PM
Give a man a fish/teach a man to fish...

I'll take the Blender lesson, if it's not too much trouble. :)

If you can describe what would need to be done to rescale, say, the two-hex tile I can probably figure it out for the rest of them.

I already have the .stls rescaled down to 10% from the original so you can start there if you like.
OK, let's see if you can follow this. Let me know if you have questions. I'm using the two hex tile.


Open Blender

Right click on the cube, hit the X key, and delete the cube.

At the bottom left, go to the View tab and click View Persp/Ortho. Itís a lot easier to edit the part in Ortho mode instead of Perspective mode.

File --> import --> .stl and import the model

Right click to select the model

Under the Tools Tab at the top left, do Scale, then move the cursor straight down and left click in the empty gray area. If you do it right, the Resize toolbar should appear. Under Vector, type .1 for X, Y, and Z to make the model 1/10 the size and easier to edit.

At the bottom left, go to the View tab and click Top to show the top view of the part.

At the bottom, go to Edit Mode (it starts in Object Mode)

Some Edit Mode tips:
- to select or unselect ALL vertices, type A (itís actually little case ďaĒ, with no SHIFT Key)
- to select only certain vertices, you can right click on them
- to select a group of vertices, type B and use the mouse and left click to make a window
- to toggle wireframe viewing ON/OFF, type Z
- if you are in wireframe viewing, using B will select all vertices through the part
- if you are in regular view (wireframe OFF), using B will select only the top vertices
- you want to be in wireframe mode to modify both top and bottom vertices at the same time

Now to modify:

Select only the bottom two vertices only (four if you include the ones into the page)
In the top left Tools tab, select Translate, left click in the lower gray area, and enter
X = 0
Y = .5
Z = 0
It should move the bottom edge up about half the thickness

Select only the outside vertices on the left side of both the bottom and top hexes.
In the Tools tab, select Translate, left click in the gray area, and enter:
X = .58
Y = 0
Z = 0
(the diagonals need to move a .115:1 ratio compared to the flats)

Select only the outside vertices on the right side of both the bottom and top hexes.
In the Tools tab, select Translate, left click in the gray area, and enter:
X = .-58
Y = 0
Z = 0

Select the lower pair of middle vertices
In the top left Tools tab, select Translate, left click in the lower gray area, and enter
X = 0
Y = -.5
Z = 0

Select the upper pair of middle vertices
In the top left Tools tab, select Translate, left click in the lower gray area, and enter
X = 0
Y = .5
Z = 0

Select the pair of top vertices
In the top left Tools tab, select Translate, left click in the lower gray area, and enter
X = 0
Y = -.5
Z = 0

Your part edges should now be thinner (same on the inside, but smaller on the outside).

Go to Object Mode
Go to File --> Export --> stl

Elstree
October 26th, 2018, 11:07 AM
Thank you! I will give this a shot when I get home from work tonight.

White Knight
October 28th, 2018, 01:03 AM
3D printed some more trees, this time using green, brown, and gray filaments. No painting required!

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zNI7cxAQ6Qgh3vLyzcZu4W6WPy9CVqGH_kVIyCqtCpDzfEcSJBBfZJgeUSqD4r6SrVcxs6 ONgZFiNDsCZ96ZjYMT3741eV2kYwlerkroe8NVoB8Q7uKR3CZ4O633bdH9U29yI4FdSgCQ Ta5wZ5T5SRrSBS2izzYjFjM5_hS4kdW7XNUR7GKW5vLAdqvI_QBenm1iXF8tqrl8P5wWDq TWJ5U-I40gFg2ILFtvlVeqQtMOTbypkig0DnxQdusM0I3hYwz7rrki0kht1k97p6OCDILSE0mlYd o0ef7zxF6WxxB5Bov7RUNGOB2o6-fU2irfvb54y9ZTqi80v4tgdnAu5AKgJ4sOnujwOKLkRvt8y9Jwz_iizrVnlrwkmHA7bJiX r6eKhnYlUWCbMmFx_NK8sVIvAE9nf81X4OvDtrBXLRh2-FHzTcEDXG3O1rAZb_SCYF_EU1B-Tqm_3D95O371u5Ak-m35RbpPZUSDkwfKab7ZZcSqw1_DRnvzat3ZugNSF_e2TSG8jSy7eJk6OwL1Id2zJ0IULYp 53F82ZtDa372lhpRbxSel4XydbwR99DXkzzRrwd4dE_LPyD9Re96ayTOIQACGQg_-T46qyv1DP1gZCUkrZZg7gRBY-zX8oU9u4-AwaV7c8-f4MByAV5x_rmF2=w1023-h767-no

Dad_Scaper
October 28th, 2018, 01:20 AM
Those are great!

TREX
October 28th, 2018, 01:31 AM
Those are great White Knight. I havent got to printing the trees yet. I've been thinking about it though. I've been on a Custom Heroscape Terrain tangent where I've been basing all kinds of fun stuff on those single hex tree bases. I've been printing different types of Star Wars turrets lately. Here's a great file for the Anti Infantry Battery. It's almost dead on with the measurements of an original star wars miniatures one at 77% Without modifying it, it will fit on a 7 hex:) I'm printing a set of two of them at 75% right now. Already did some atgar cannons as well. This file works great too for those. I'm going to do a man-able turret card for the Atgar cannon as well as the eweb. Here are the two files.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3041805 This one at about 75% to 77% will match the one HoSS does.
This one doesnt need supports.

The Atgar cannon is just at 100%
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2772222
This one does use supports but they are super easy to remove on this one.
Havent got to the Eweb yet, but these other files turn out awesome.

These should probably be linked over in the 3d Printable HoSS section huh.:)

japes
October 28th, 2018, 11:31 AM
All I get is a grey circle with a white line when trying to see WK's trees. I tried to copy the link into Chrome as well but no luck.

White Knight
October 28th, 2018, 11:35 AM
All I get is a grey circle with a white line when trying to see WK's trees. I tried to copy the link into Chrome as well but no luck.
Google photos doesn't work for everyone. :(

Reposted on Facebook:


https://scontent-dfw5-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/44929216_10156910744616757_8634931005855105024_o.jpg?_nc_cat=107&_nc_ht=scontent-dfw5-1.xx&oh=b883cc29df6e4f769901982969a11660&oe=5C87CC21

Elstree
October 28th, 2018, 03:49 PM
I had the same problem viewing the photo, but I can see the facebook version.

Do you have an airbrush? I'd suggest a top-down blast all the way around, about 30 degrees off from vertical, with a slightly lighter green, then finish with a darker wash.

Elstree
October 28th, 2018, 04:06 PM
OK, let's see if you can follow this. Let me know if you have questions. I'm using the two hex tile.
[...snip...]


Thank you! That was exactly what I needed to get started! Once I got the hang of it, I started exploring other tools. If anyone else wants to try their hand at Blender, here are a few other tips I figured out:


Clicking Translate or Scale twice will open the numerical dialog box below without the hazard of straying through the work area and accidentally dragging the selected points around.


Clicking "a" will release any vertices you have selected (assuming there are some; otherwise it's select all).


Clicking in the work area will place the target cursor. You can then type Alt+Home to recenter the screen on this point. This makes it much easier to zoom in on tight areas. (One of the hardest things I've found in Blender is moving the view around. Other tips on this would be welcome.)


Under view, you can turn on the Properties toolbar. When you select a point, you'll see it's xyz coordinates. (You can use this to make sure pairs of points are lined up properly on the same grid lines.)


To measure the length of an edge, first change the select tool to "edge" using the button on the bottom toolbar. Then in the Property toolbar, scroll down and check the "length" checkbox. The lengths of each edge will now be displayed next to the selected segment. (Very helpful for double checking segment lengths after making changes!)


I haven't yet found a way to directly measure the distance between two selected points, but you can create a temporary edge and find its length, then undo it (CTL+z). Right click to select the first point, then shift+right click to select the second one. Then on the left-hand sidebar menu, scroll down to the Mesh Tools section and under Add: find the Make Edge/Face button. Click this to create an edge and view its length, then undo it.


By the way, there's some weirdness going on with the geometry in that double-hex file. The two points of each hex marking the interior edge of the lip along the faces where the two hexes meet are off. Specifically, they're slightly too far apart compared to the others, and a little closer to the center as well. I assume srmalloy moved these points to create a narrower neck in the middle that would interfere less with neighboring tiles.

Still, it disturbed my wa so I had to "fix" it and make that interior perimeter a true hexagon again. :) (We'll see how "fixed" it is when I get the printed version back in a week or so. My guess is I'll see why he did what he did once I see why mine won't fit right!)

Elstree
October 28th, 2018, 09:42 PM
Whoa! @White_Knight, I just looked at some of your .stls in Blender and that is some sophisticated stuff! The rounded corners on those tree bases, the tree base rocks, that tree trunk! Do you have access to a laser scanner or something?

White Knight
October 29th, 2018, 04:25 PM
Whoa! @White_Knight, I just looked at some of your .stls in Blender and that is some sophisticated stuff! The rounded corners on those tree bases, the tree base rocks, that tree trunk! Do you have access to a laser scanner or something?
Ha! I wish!

Some of the parts (mostly the hexes and some bases) I made in Pro Engineer CREO. Some of the parts (the Heroscape trees) are from VirtualScape files. Most of the complex parts (tree trunk, etc...) are taken from the internet (mostly thingiverse.com and yeggi.com) and altered just slightly by me in Blender.

The .stl files of mine that are scanned are the Heroscape figures. A group of us took a suite of pictures of each figure and used 123D Catch to turn them into .obj models. Then we used Blender to clean them up and add bases. Unfortunately 123D Catch by Autodesk has been discontinued. I heard that 3DF Zephyr can convert photos to 3D models as well, but I haven't tried it.

JairEmia
November 9th, 2018, 04:13 PM
Hey I am sure its been asked before, but have any of you found a clear blue pla that is close in look to older sparkle water tiles? would like to print up some waterfalls on my ender 3 but would rather they matched. I appreciate any help you can give me. :)

Dad_Scaper
November 17th, 2018, 12:23 AM
JairEmia! Where did you come from???

Good to see you looking in on us, friend. :)

White Knight
November 17th, 2018, 10:53 AM
Hey I am sure its been asked before, but have any of you found a clear blue pla that is close in look to older sparkle water tiles? would like to print up some waterfalls on my ender 3 but would rather they matched. I appreciate any help you can give me. :)
Not me. I haven't tried to match the water tiles yet.

MementoMori
November 20th, 2018, 05:19 PM
I have the feeling that it might be easier to match color with PET than with PLA

japes
November 29th, 2018, 06:56 PM
I have a quick question. I'm getting ready to add an Ender 3 to my Christmas wishlist. What type of filament would you recommend for a first timer that is planning on printing some figures and perhaps some terrain?

Tornado
November 29th, 2018, 07:00 PM
I will ask my friend what he got, it seems to work pretty good.
I know the gray was pretty awesome and looked great for terrain, like ruins.
He has been on a huge glow in the dark kick, printing out a bunch of different colored dragon heads.

Yodaking
November 29th, 2018, 07:15 PM
White/black/grey are all good base colors for mini painting. As for the different plastics, I'm not familiar enough with both to recommend one over the other but I've seen people in the past say they get better results with one (don't recall which one though) with their printer and paints.

White Knight
November 29th, 2018, 08:30 PM
I have a quick question. I'm getting ready to add an Ender 3 to my Christmas wishlist. What type of filament would you recommend for a first timer that is planning on printing some figures and perhaps some terrain?
I like white PLA for miniatures and black PLA for items I don't plan to paint. The white shows off the details better. The black looks better as a finished product.


I've used other colors, but just for specific things. (Green for pine trees, brown for bases, etc...)

japes
November 29th, 2018, 09:31 PM
I have a quick question. I'm getting ready to add an Ender 3 to my Christmas wishlist. What type of filament would you recommend for a first timer that is planning on printing some figures and perhaps some terrain?
I like white PLA for miniatures and black PLA for items I don't plan to paint. The white shows off the details better. The black looks better as a finished product.


I've used other colors, but just for specific things. (Green for pine trees, brown for bases, etc...)

I wasn't too far off. My initial but was clear PLA since I thought it was versatile.

TREX
November 29th, 2018, 10:47 PM
White/black/grey are all good base colors for mini painting. As for the different plastics, I'm not familiar enough with both to recommend one over the other but I've seen people in the past say they get better results with one (don't recall which one though) with their printer and paints.

This is my preference as well for stuff being painted. I generally use black for all my painted terrain.

japes
November 30th, 2018, 01:30 PM
I have a quick question. I'm getting ready to add an Ender 3 to my Christmas wishlist. What type of filament would you recommend for a first timer that is planning on printing some figures and perhaps some terrain?
I like white PLA for miniatures and black PLA for items I don't plan to paint. The white shows off the details better. The black looks better as a finished product.


I've used other colors, but just for specific things. (Green for pine trees, brown for bases, etc...)

White/black/grey are all good base colors for mini painting. As for the different plastics, I'm not familiar enough with both to recommend one over the other but I've seen people in the past say they get better results with one (don't recall which one though) with their printer and paints.

This is my preference as well for stuff being painted. I generally use black for all my painted terrain.

Having received printed pieces from both of you I probably should have known the color's you guys preferred. Material however I had no clue. The only thing I knew of was that I bought some ABS pellets that I melted down with MEK to make a paste to fix my camper.

I have yet to paint either the white figures from WK or the black figures from Trex. Why do each of you feel that your choice is better. Not trying to start a disagreement but I respect both of your works and wanted to understand your opinions.

Mainly the part I have in bold above. Seems like you both say that Black makes a better final product but white's detail is better?

So if I'm a mediocre painter would more detail be better or does the black looking better as a finished product be better to prop up the paint job?

Yodaking
November 30th, 2018, 02:32 PM
Just guessing here, but I would surmise that printing in white being bright when put under light makes it easier to see the details for you the painter, which makes painting easier. Black absorbs the light though, so if you are not going to be painting it the darkness helps cover up the flaws in the printing process that you would normally cover up with paint.

White Knight
November 30th, 2018, 02:45 PM
I think Yodaking is right. There are additives in different colors that make a physical difference in strength and resolution, but i can't say that is the case here.

I like the look if the black for electronics enclosures, and other engineering final products. It looks like an off the shelf part. White looks obviously 3d printed, as does orange and some other colors.

I mostly use PLA+ from esun for my figures. I like it better then regular PLA (not as brittle, and prints better on my printer.)

I use ABS for things that have to be water resistant. But the ABS does not print as well on my printer. Large items tend to warp at the edges, and the resolution isn't quite as good. I'll also use AND if I want a cleaner finish, since AND can be polished with acetone.

I've used clear PET for elemental and water resistant items as well. But PET is stringy and more difficult to get a good print.

MementoMori
December 3rd, 2018, 06:48 PM
I always print minis in grey PLA, and then prime them in grey or brown.

White Knight
December 7th, 2018, 11:28 AM
I recently been updating my classic and road hexes based on inputs from others. (Note that they are a little tight on my printer, but they seem to work well for others.) Also added textures:

Classic single hex (https://drive.google.com/open?id=1i7zlgsd7zXGVZ4TQHhHtBXm00AJ___Q1)

Classic double hex (https://drive.google.com/open?id=14jgLDrZm9z5H9KTJbFh6klOzh0_kR3R-)

Classic 3 hex (https://drive.google.com/open?id=1r3G6mlBn8Onmr0PQEpVhCwsjvwkgIDX6)

Classic 4 hex (https://drive.google.com/open?id=1x3vCZKXEupxBZaoIXFAUTwzFf4hJBy5r)

Classic 7 hex (https://drive.google.com/open?id=1P3R3unMdZLm30WnUL-ZfLlyJ6kQACqkT)

Classic 24 hex (https://drive.google.com/open?id=1izFgVaAGnrAGJlmEURAAzGsl1mzLho4z)

Road single hex (https://drive.google.com/open?id=1EDV2uMtqm_MS_zXK61VBGZGq6YPRQf7G)

Road double hex (https://drive.google.com/open?id=1wf1xrkXnHEMTIPQ8-DDn_Oxqrwfwc8wL)

Road 3 hex (https://drive.google.com/open?id=1pphbcZeW7fD--3MjXrDDIFsb8CHhgf6G)

Road 4 hex (https://drive.google.com/open?id=12OMH1ZDEW6zof6JuPyGbA_DxCv0Kh80y)

Road 5 hex straight (https://drive.google.com/open?id=1HuQLT4-AmsEK--fgnq2kkPjpnDu445jl)

Road 7 hex (https://drive.google.com/open?id=1p5zZtPSAsvmM8IY35kxbrdiBgBbNxEeP)

Bridge half (https://drive.google.com/open?id=1rt49PmK5PvHVASqFO6rIcPH3mnUkIbjY)

https://scontent-dfw5-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/47261583_10157011353621757_8329797798794887168_o.jpg?_nc_cat=104&_nc_ht=scontent-dfw5-1.xx&oh=32415b727298d16816991309d0ca20d7&oe=5C6939A5

https://scontent-dfw5-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/47176397_10157011353606757_7778285721239945216_o.jpg?_nc_cat=108&_nc_ht=scontent-dfw5-1.xx&oh=f94612f7b983442fe3dbb4933d2a0e21&oe=5CB090FE

Yodaking, can you add these to the OP?

serial2k9
December 7th, 2018, 11:58 AM
Hello,

I'm new here in the forum...
I'm from Austria and have seen your STL files of the HS Hexes. I did a little redesign to them and mixed it with other models I have found. I will try to make them locking like the original stones.
http://www.3dpb.at/pics/Hex_NEW.png
The first test Hex is printing at the moment, I'll let you know if it fits as I wanted.
Download STL file:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1eg9jSTYW2yZ3A4mPFBvAyE0XykBngzxO

Best Regards
Alex

Yodaking
December 7th, 2018, 12:28 PM
I recently been updating my classic and road hexes based on inputs from others. (Note that they are a little tight on my printer, but they seem to work well for others.) Also added textures:

Classic single hex (https://drive.google.com/open?id=1i7zlgsd7zXGVZ4TQHhHtBXm00AJ___Q1)

Classic double hex (https://drive.google.com/open?id=14jgLDrZm9z5H9KTJbFh6klOzh0_kR3R-)

Classic 3 hex (https://drive.google.com/open?id=1r3G6mlBn8Onmr0PQEpVhCwsjvwkgIDX6)

Classic 4 hex (https://drive.google.com/open?id=1x3vCZKXEupxBZaoIXFAUTwzFf4hJBy5r)

Classic 7 hex (https://drive.google.com/open?id=1P3R3unMdZLm30WnUL-ZfLlyJ6kQACqkT)

Classic 24 hex (https://drive.google.com/open?id=1izFgVaAGnrAGJlmEURAAzGsl1mzLho4z)

Road single hex (https://drive.google.com/open?id=1EDV2uMtqm_MS_zXK61VBGZGq6YPRQf7G)

Road double hex (https://drive.google.com/open?id=1wf1xrkXnHEMTIPQ8-DDn_Oxqrwfwc8wL)

Road 3 hex (https://drive.google.com/open?id=1pphbcZeW7fD--3MjXrDDIFsb8CHhgf6G)

Road 4 hex (https://drive.google.com/open?id=12OMH1ZDEW6zof6JuPyGbA_DxCv0Kh80y)

Road 5 hex straight (https://drive.google.com/open?id=1HuQLT4-AmsEK--fgnq2kkPjpnDu445jl)

Road 7 hex (https://drive.google.com/open?id=1p5zZtPSAsvmM8IY35kxbrdiBgBbNxEeP)

Bridge half (https://drive.google.com/open?id=1rt49PmK5PvHVASqFO6rIcPH3mnUkIbjY)

https://scontent-dfw5-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/47261583_10157011353621757_8329797798794887168_o.jpg?_nc_cat=104&_nc_ht=scontent-dfw5-1.xx&oh=32415b727298d16816991309d0ca20d7&oe=5C6939A5

https://scontent-dfw5-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/47176397_10157011353606757_7778285721239945216_o.jpg?_nc_cat=108&_nc_ht=scontent-dfw5-1.xx&oh=f94612f7b983442fe3dbb4933d2a0e21&oe=5CB090FE

@Yodaking (https://www.heroscapers.com/community/member.php?u=4224) , can you add these to the OP?


Yeah, it may not be today but I can do an update here. Do you want me to just replace the old links where I can or should I have both links available?

White Knight
December 7th, 2018, 12:45 PM
Yeah, it may not be today but I can do an update here. Do you want me to just replace the old links where I can or should I have both links available?
Go ahead and delete the old links for the 5 and 7 hexes. The singles and can stay since they have different heights and so can the twisted hexes. Also delete the old bridge files.

White Knight
December 7th, 2018, 12:46 PM
Hello,

I'm new here in the forum...
I'm from Austria and have seen your STL files of the HS Hexes. I did a little redesign to them and mixed it with other models I have found. I will try to make them locking like the original stones.
http://www.3dpb.at/pics/Hex_NEW.png
The first test Hex is printing at the moment, I'll let you know if it fits as I wanted.
Download STL file:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1eg9jSTYW2yZ3A4mPFBvAyE0XykBngzxO

Best Regards
Alex
Welcome to the forum! Once you get them sized correctly, please post your files. Thanks!

japes
December 7th, 2018, 03:55 PM
I recently been updating my classic and road hexes based on inputs from others. (Note that they are a little tight on my printer, but they seem to work well for others.) Also added textures:


https://scontent-dfw5-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/47176397_10157011353606757_7778285721239945216_o.jpg?_nc_cat=108&_nc_ht=scontent-dfw5-1.xx&oh=f94612f7b983442fe3dbb4933d2a0e21&oe=5CB090FE


Oh wow...now I really need to get a printer for xmas. I can finally complete my RttFF set by printing the bridge wall piece that I'm missing.

japes
December 7th, 2018, 03:56 PM
Does anyone know what type of plastic the original tiles are made from?

White Knight
December 7th, 2018, 04:40 PM
Does anyone know what type of plastic the original tiles are made from?
Check this thread (https://www.heroscapers.com/community/showthread.php?t=34390)


Only two people answered. The first said styrene. The second said polyethylene. I'm tending to think it's probably injection molded polyethylene.

Porkins
December 12th, 2018, 01:18 PM
I don't think the terrain is Polyethylene. The terrain seems too brittle to me to be PE. PE is more "bendy"; think Dogloo, that product is polyethylene. I think it is probably ABS, but not positive. LEGOs are made from ABS, but using molds with a very low surface finish.

If it were styrene, it would melt in contact with model cement, which I don't think it does. Polyethylene would not be able to be glued with Super Glue; I think terrain can be glued with Super Glue. Can anyone confirm. Acetone (ie - nail polish) would melt ABS. Has anyone tried acetone on a terrain piece?

One guy in the other thread mentioned yellowing snow (not yellow snow; that's different; don't eat it). I have had success whitening yellowed snow using Oxy Clean, Hydrogen Peroxide and sunlight.

Yodaking
December 12th, 2018, 01:49 PM
I have some hexes that were glued together to make a large bridge, they were a friends tiles so I'm not sure what he used for the glue. I know the tiles are fairly brittle too, I stepped on one and it fractured along hard lines.

japes
December 12th, 2018, 04:31 PM
I don't think the terrain is Polyethylene. The terrain seems too brittle to me to be PE. PE is more "bendy"; think Dogloo, that product is polyethylene. I think it is probably ABS, but not positive. LEGOs are made from ABS, but using molds with a very low surface finish.

If it were styrene, it would melt in contact with model cement, which I don't think it does. Polyethylene would not be able to be glued with Super Glue; I think terrain can be glued with Super Glue. Can anyone confirm. Acetone (ie - nail polish) would melt ABS. Has anyone tried acetone on a terrain piece?

One guy in the other thread mentioned yellowing snow (not yellow snow; that's different; don't eat it). I have had success whitening yellowed snow using Oxy Clean, Hydrogen Peroxide and sunlight.

I use MEK to melt ABS to repair ABS on a vintage camper I'm restoring. I should try that to repair some broken tiles and see if it works. a little MEK to "soften" the ABS and then push the two sides together and let them set.

MementoMori
December 18th, 2018, 02:38 PM
As every single time I started any Heroscape related project, life got in the way again. This time the project I was working on was the Ticalla Jungle set, and it's the second time I have to stop work on this (same happened with medium and big outcrops).

I will be preparing a competitive examination and won't have any free time until summer, so I decided to share my ticalla files in their current unfinished status. I'd host the files to link them directly form here, but the leaves file is too big and it's only 1 out of 4.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3295375

japes
December 20th, 2018, 10:58 AM
Because we are going out of town, my family opened up Christmas Presents...Guess what I got. Well I haven't got it yet since it wasn't delivered in time but I got a cool picture of it.

My wife and son got me an Ender 3...Get ready for lots of questions.

TREX
December 20th, 2018, 11:12 AM
Because we are going out of town, my family opened up Christmas Presents...Guess what I got. Well I haven't got it yet since it wasn't delivered in time but I got a cool picture of it.

My wife and son got me an Ender 3...Get ready for lots of questions.

Congrats japes. 3d printers are super fun but can have quite a few little problems pop up that will get you a bit irritated at times. Overall they are very fun tools for someone printing out components for tabletop game pieces.

White Knight
December 20th, 2018, 02:01 PM
Because we are going out of town, my family opened up Christmas Presents...Guess what I got. Well I haven't got it yet since it wasn't delivered in time but I got a cool picture of it.

My wife and son got me an Ender 3...Get ready for lots of questions.
Yay!


My Ender 3 probably won't arrive in time for Christmas either, but it's on its way. Looking forward to better resolution than my current printer.

Tornado
December 20th, 2018, 02:01 PM
Sweet.
One of the main things you need are settings for Cura.
Search around online.

japes
December 20th, 2018, 02:15 PM
Because we are going out of town, my family opened up Christmas Presents...Guess what I got. Well I haven't got it yet since it wasn't delivered in time but I got a cool picture of it.

My wife and son got me an Ender 3...Get ready for lots of questions.
Yay!


My Ender 3 probably won't arrive in time for Christmas either, but it's on its way. Looking forward to better resolution than my current printer.

Oh wow. So the Ender 3 has better resolution than what you are using now. Cool. I haven't had any issues with what you've sent me so far.

My biggest hope is that I can find some stand in models for the C3G common figures.

crxcowboy
December 23rd, 2018, 12:19 AM
Just got an Ender 3 myself. Can't wait to try something simple like the lamp posts first. Then I'll advance to the big stuff like the glaciers. But, I was curious about the figures. There are some scans on here of figures, but when viewed in a model viewer they seem quite ... "blobby." Even though they are supposed to be high res scans, is that really what the figures look like without the paint?

TREX
December 23rd, 2018, 12:44 AM
Just got an Ender 3 myself. Can't wait to try something simple like the lamp posts first. Then I'll advance to the big stuff like the glaciers. But, I was curious about the figures. There are some scans on here of figures, but when viewed in a model viewer they seem quite ... "blobby." Even though they are supposed to be high res scans, is that really what the figures look like without the paint?

The scans have been cleaned up taking the excess background and such out. Then wk has added a base. They can still be put in a slicer program and cleaned up more but that takes a good bit of time. Having just about every model in my collection I can say they are not as crisp as the originals but are a good start. The glaciers are actually much easier than you would think. Good luck to you in your 3d printing quest for the table top it is quite fun but more work than youd expect.

White Knight
December 23rd, 2018, 02:00 AM
Just got an Ender 3 myself. Can't wait to try something simple like the lamp posts first. Then I'll advance to the big stuff like the glaciers. But, I was curious about the figures. There are some scans on here of figures, but when viewed in a model viewer they seem quite ... "blobby." Even though they are supposed to be high res scans, is that really what the figures look like without the paint?
The better term is "higher resolution".

All of the models were made from photographs input into the 123D Catch program from Autodesk that uses the photos to create a 3D .obj model. The "higher resolution" models are the direct output from 123D Catch. The lower resolution models were decimated (reduced polygon count) to make them load faster in Hexscape.

123D Catch has been discontinued, and all of our project files (and the photographs) have been deleted. We only have the original scans that I saved on my home computer.

Zephyr 3DF works similarly to 123D Catch with photographs, but it accepts higher resolution photographs, so I may try to recapture some figures and see if the resolution of the final models is any better.

shaolin
December 24th, 2018, 02:22 PM
Zephyr 3DF works similarly to 123D Catch with photographs, but it accepts higher resolution photographs, so I may try to recapture some figures and see if the resolution of the final models is any better.
If the resolution is any better, let me know. I donít have many figures to take new pictures, but Iíll gladly download the app and help with any grunt work. Shoot me some images and Iíll help scan, anything like that.

mcmeeple
December 28th, 2018, 10:06 AM
I recently been updating my classic and road hexes based on inputs from others. (Note that they are a little tight on my printer, but they seem to work well for others.) Also added textures:

Classic single hex (https://drive.google.com/open?id=1i7zlgsd7zXGVZ4TQHhHtBXm00AJ___Q1)

Classic double hex (https://drive.google.com/open?id=14jgLDrZm9z5H9KTJbFh6klOzh0_kR3R-)

Classic 3 hex (https://drive.google.com/open?id=1r3G6mlBn8Onmr0PQEpVhCwsjvwkgIDX6)

Classic 4 hex (https://drive.google.com/open?id=1x3vCZKXEupxBZaoIXFAUTwzFf4hJBy5r)

Classic 7 hex (https://drive.google.com/open?id=1P3R3unMdZLm30WnUL-ZfLlyJ6kQACqkT)

Classic 24 hex (https://drive.google.com/open?id=1izFgVaAGnrAGJlmEURAAzGsl1mzLho4z)

Road single hex (https://drive.google.com/open?id=1EDV2uMtqm_MS_zXK61VBGZGq6YPRQf7G)

Road double hex (https://drive.google.com/open?id=1wf1xrkXnHEMTIPQ8-DDn_Oxqrwfwc8wL)

Road 3 hex (https://drive.google.com/open?id=1pphbcZeW7fD--3MjXrDDIFsb8CHhgf6G)

Road 4 hex (https://drive.google.com/open?id=12OMH1ZDEW6zof6JuPyGbA_DxCv0Kh80y)

Road 5 hex straight (https://drive.google.com/open?id=1HuQLT4-AmsEK--fgnq2kkPjpnDu445jl)

Road 7 hex (https://drive.google.com/open?id=1p5zZtPSAsvmM8IY35kxbrdiBgBbNxEeP)

Bridge half (https://drive.google.com/open?id=1rt49PmK5PvHVASqFO6rIcPH3mnUkIbjY)

https://scontent-dfw5-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/47261583_10157011353621757_8329797798794887168_o.jpg?_nc_cat=104&_nc_ht=scontent-dfw5-1.xx&oh=32415b727298d16816991309d0ca20d7&oe=5C6939A5

https://scontent-dfw5-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/47176397_10157011353606757_7778285721239945216_o.jpg?_nc_cat=108&_nc_ht=scontent-dfw5-1.xx&oh=f94612f7b983442fe3dbb4933d2a0e21&oe=5CB090FE

Yodaking, can you add these to the OP?

These look awesome and are just what I have been looking for! The previous ones I found were all scaled wonky.

What orientation have you been printing these in? And have you been using supports?

I am considering merging these with other 3d objects to print on tile objects.

White Knight
December 28th, 2018, 01:08 PM
I recently been updating my classic and road hexes based on inputs from others. (Note that they are a little tight on my printer, but they seem to work well for others.) Also added textures:

Classic single hex (https://drive.google.com/open?id=1i7zlgsd7zXGVZ4TQHhHtBXm00AJ___Q1)

Classic double hex (https://drive.google.com/open?id=14jgLDrZm9z5H9KTJbFh6klOzh0_kR3R-)

Classic 3 hex (https://drive.google.com/open?id=1r3G6mlBn8Onmr0PQEpVhCwsjvwkgIDX6)

Classic 4 hex (https://drive.google.com/open?id=1x3vCZKXEupxBZaoIXFAUTwzFf4hJBy5r)

Classic 7 hex (https://drive.google.com/open?id=1P3R3unMdZLm30WnUL-ZfLlyJ6kQACqkT)

Classic 24 hex (https://drive.google.com/open?id=1izFgVaAGnrAGJlmEURAAzGsl1mzLho4z)

Road single hex (https://drive.google.com/open?id=1EDV2uMtqm_MS_zXK61VBGZGq6YPRQf7G)

Road double hex (https://drive.google.com/open?id=1wf1xrkXnHEMTIPQ8-DDn_Oxqrwfwc8wL)

Road 3 hex (https://drive.google.com/open?id=1pphbcZeW7fD--3MjXrDDIFsb8CHhgf6G)

Road 4 hex (https://drive.google.com/open?id=12OMH1ZDEW6zof6JuPyGbA_DxCv0Kh80y)

Road 5 hex straight (https://drive.google.com/open?id=1HuQLT4-AmsEK--fgnq2kkPjpnDu445jl)

Road 7 hex (https://drive.google.com/open?id=1p5zZtPSAsvmM8IY35kxbrdiBgBbNxEeP)

Bridge half (https://drive.google.com/open?id=1rt49PmK5PvHVASqFO6rIcPH3mnUkIbjY)

https://scontent-dfw5-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/47261583_10157011353621757_8329797798794887168_o.jpg?_nc_cat=104&_nc_ht=scontent-dfw5-1.xx&oh=32415b727298d16816991309d0ca20d7&oe=5C6939A5

https://scontent-dfw5-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/47176397_10157011353606757_7778285721239945216_o.jpg?_nc_cat=108&_nc_ht=scontent-dfw5-1.xx&oh=f94612f7b983442fe3dbb4933d2a0e21&oe=5CB090FE

@Yodaking (https://www.heroscapers.com/community/member.php?u=4224) , can you add these to the OP?

These look awesome and are just what I have been looking for! The previous ones I found were all scaled wonky.

What orientation have you been printing these in? And have you been using supports?

I am considering merging these with other 3d objects to print on tile objects.
I haven't printed any myself, but the guy I made them for printed at least some of them upside down.

Elstree
December 31st, 2018, 12:09 PM
I haven't printed these specifically, but in general if you print right-side up you'll get better results with the surface texture on the top of the tiles; however, you'll also have a whole mess of supports underneath to remove. Upside-down saves you the supports and plastic, but the surface texture may be uneven.

So it's a trade-off.

TREX
December 31st, 2018, 01:19 PM
I haven't printed these specifically, but in general if you print right-side up you'll get better results with the surface texture on the top of the tiles; however, you'll also have a whole mess of supports underneath to remove. Upside-down saves you the supports and plastic, but the surface texture may be uneven.

So it's a trade-off.

I agree. for them just being tiles for terrain, I generally print them upside down. Removing supports is my least favorite thing to do on models. If you can print without supports or there is a model that can be printed without supports, its the way to go. Also saves filament.

Moto-dragon
February 9th, 2019, 04:13 PM
Hello,
Very nice designs. I just printed the 1 & 3 hex glaciers and they turned out good.
I have an issue with the bridge wall... when I open it in the slicer it opens 7mm (0.27inch) long...that is a little bit...ant-man size :)
Anyone else had this issue?
I am reading thru the pages of this thread but all links I download are the same.
THX

White Knight
February 10th, 2019, 12:32 PM
Hello,
Very nice designs. I just printed the 1 & 3 hex glaciers and they turned out good.
I have an issue with the bridge wall... when I open it in the slicer it opens 7mm (0.27inch) long...that is a little bit...ant-man size :)
Anyone else had this issue?
I am reading thru the pages of this thread but all links I download are the same.
THXIt's in inches, so it's 7 inches long. Scale by 25.4 to make it print right.

Elstree
February 12th, 2019, 11:43 AM
I'm not 100% sure about this, but it seems like each program just saves its files in its own default "units", but what constitutes a "unit" can change from program. So a 7" object designed in a program that uses inches by default is saved as 7 units long, but when that file is opened in a program that uses mm by default it interprets it to be only 7 mm long.

TREX
February 12th, 2019, 01:12 PM
I'm not 100% sure about this, but it seems like each program just saves its files in its own default "units", but what constitutes a "unit" can change from program. So a 7" object designed in a program that uses inches by default is saved as 7 units long, but when that file is opened in a program that uses mm by default it interprets it to be only 7 mm long.

I agree. Ive had to scale the models up by 2540%. They are perfect and fit perfectly that way.

White Knight
February 13th, 2019, 04:41 PM
(moved to figure thread)

TREX
February 13th, 2019, 04:46 PM
Those are beautiful WK. You should link it to the facebook page. You'll get takers in droves. Great job.

White Knight
February 14th, 2019, 10:46 AM
(moved to figure thread)

TREX
February 14th, 2019, 11:22 AM
I can tell especially on the faces of the quasatch hunters how much nicer the models are. Those look awesome. I for sure want to try to print those. Ive always wanted to make additional models of the yeti figures and paint them up differently. Those are some of the best looking models yet. Im truly excited.

Tornado
February 14th, 2019, 01:17 PM
What profile settings are you using WK?

Yodaking
February 14th, 2019, 02:43 PM
Not being able to print hollow or something close to hollow is one of the things that disappointed me about my little cheap printer that I never use.

crxcowboy
February 14th, 2019, 05:51 PM
Awesome! Do you have a lot of issues removing supports?
That's the one thing that I've had problems with printing figures.

White Knight
February 14th, 2019, 09:32 PM
What profile settings are you using WK?
I used the stock Ender 3 settings with a few small personal mods to help it stick better to the bed:

Quality
Layer Height .2mm
Initial Layer Height .3mm
Top/Bottom Line Width .6mm

Shell
Wall Thickness .8mm
Top/Bottom Thickness .6mm
Top Thickness .6mm
Bottom Thickness .6mm

Infill Density 100% on small figures, 35% on large and huge figures

Material (esun PLA+)
Printing Temperature 200C
Build Plate Temperature 60C
Diameter 1.75mm
Flow 100%
Enable Retraction (check)

Speed
Print Speed 60mm/s
Travel Speed 120 mm/s
Print Acceleration 500 mm/s2
Travel Acceleration 5000 mm/s2
Print Jerk 20 mm/s
Travel Jerk 30 mm/s

Cooling
Enable Print Cooling (check)

Support
Generate Support (I usually make my own supports, but I've checked this box on some figures like the Templar Calvary and it worked well)

Build Plate Adhesion
Type Skirt


I really like the esun PLA+ filament

White Knight
February 14th, 2019, 09:45 PM
Awesome! Do you have a lot of issues removing supports?
That's the one thing that I've had problems with printing figures.
I've used the stock Ender 3 supports for larger figures and it's worked pretty well. But I wouldn't trust them on something as fragile as a Venoc Viper. Mostly I use Blender to add custom tree supports:


https://scontent-dfw5-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/52441806_10157188593376757_50261034442686464_n.jpg?_nc_cat=100&_nc_ht=scontent-dfw5-1.xx&oh=b46b45aa3f0b1c3a424bfb015feb2608&oe=5CFAA8C2

https://scontent-dfw5-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/52315715_10157188593301757_8526347837405921280_n.jpg?_nc_cat=101&_nc_ht=scontent-dfw5-1.xx&oh=7a6586f0371f119da71aad3095bdf0a6&oe=5CEEB39B


https://scontent-dfw5-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/51885772_10157188593431757_2887985350414696448_n.jpg?_nc_cat=103&_nc_ht=scontent-dfw5-1.xx&oh=d8f354a208a1affcd81b098f90d61492&oe=5CEFDBA9

https://scontent-dfw5-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/51943324_10157188593341757_4732548317987209216_n.jpg?_nc_cat=103&_nc_ht=scontent-dfw5-1.xx&oh=d309dc84c5e6394c60e6c54f3cef069a&oe=5CEEE493

It takes a little trial and error (some failed prints) to get the supports right, but once they are dialed in it makes removing them pretty easy. First I cut (melt through) them with a hot tool. Then I remove the supports with dykes and then clean everything up with the hot tool.

(If I don't cut through with a hot tool first, the dykes will try to force the two halves of the supports apart as they cut which stressed the rest of the part and can break legs or other features.)

Tornado
February 14th, 2019, 09:59 PM
Thanks WK. Where do you get your pla+?

White Knight
February 14th, 2019, 10:05 PM
Thanks WK. Where do you get your pla+?
Amazon

Tornado
February 14th, 2019, 10:22 PM
Of course. :) Thanks.