Michigan Monthly Game Day - Build & Battle - March 21, 2009

[Draconious]

Michigan Monthly Game Day
Third Saturday of every month.

Next Day:

February 21, 2009

March 21, 2009

BLUE DRAGON GAMES
45581 Mound Rd, Utica, MI
(586) 323-6700‎

Setup @ 12:30PM

Players that are going to be there:
Draconious (Hosting)
ParaGoombaSlayer (attended 1 day so far)
StarofEarendil
MI_Tiger (attended 2 days so far)
MI_Tiger's Son (attended 1 day so far)

Players that are maybes:
DrRansom




Weather, etc canceled last months game day, Anyone up for doing it this month?


The game day is still on, but the long 6 month event with the $100 is on hold, for a few reasons; not enough participation, and I may not be in michigan for 6 more months due to the house forclosing and having to move in with parents in florida if I dont get a job up here.

The prize is currently not having to pay an entry fee... however, if at least 6 people show up (counting myself), and if everyone wants too... I will charge a $3.00 entry fee and give away one of my unopened figure packs. If I win, it will go to the 2nd place winner.

[Draconious]

Before you use any links in this post, please hit your browsers REFRESH button!

And another version of the rules: http://s88452779.onlinehome.us/HeroS...leRules___.pdf

Newest Battlefield Layout (I will keep one eventually...)


Score Sheet:




Build & Battle
For this event you need to bring a custom built battlefield along with your army. You will use the same army and battlefield for every game. Two hours will be allotted per game, which should allow for about 3 games to be played. The only prize is that there is no entry fee or cost to play.




Army (1000 Army Draft Points)
You get 1000 points to draft your army. No MARVEL figures allowed. Repainted figures are ok, but no proxy figures are allowed. Only one army card is required to represent multiples of the same common heroes or squads.

Battlefield Base (Level 0)
You must build your battlefield on top of a base made of (4) 24-hex and (4) 7-hex terrain tiles that will be placed adjacent to your opponent’s battlefield as shown. This base level will make it easier to move between tables and define a boundary for all players to make identical sized battlefields. Tiles cannot be added to make the base level larger or hang off the edges of the base level. In addition to the base tiles, you also get the terrain tiles shown below. These tiles can be any mix of rock, sand, grass, or swamp tiles. You do not have to use every available terrain tile. The open hexes on the base level must be filled or covered by using these tiles.

(2) 24-HEX \ (6) 7-HEX \ (8) 3-HEX \ (10) 2-HEX \ (20) 1-HEX \ (10) Water (or Swamp Water)

Terrain Groups (8 Battlefield Points)
You get 8 Battlefield Points to enhance your battlefield with the terrain groups listed below.

Group Cost Terrain
Starting Zone 1 +1 Row of 12 Starting Spaces (Maximum of 60 spaces)
Bridge 1 (1) 5-Hex road \ (2) Bridge Walls
Battlements 1 (10) Battlements
Water 2 (12) Water (or Swamp Water)
Ladder 2 (6) Ladders
Ruins 2 (1) Large Ruin \ (1) Small Ruin
Snow 2 Snow: (6) 2-Hex, (6) 1-Hex \ (6) Ice
Fortress Roof 2 (1) 9-Hex Wall-Walk \ (1) 7-Hex Wall-Walk
Ice 2 Glacier: (1) 6-Hex, (1) 4-Hex, (1) 3-Hex, (3) 1-Hex \ (9) Ice
Tower 2 (1) Wall-End with Base and Wall-Walk (5) Battlements, (6) Ladders
Small Hills 2 (3) 3-Hex \ (3) 2-Hex \ (3) 1-Hex (rock\sand\grass\swamp)
Large Hills 3 (2) 7-Hex \ (2) 3-Hex \ (2) 2-Hex \ (2) 1-Hex (rock\sand\grass\swamp)
Forest 3 (1) 4-Hex tree \ (4) 1-hex trees (any height)
Road 3 (8) 2-Hex Road, (8) 1-Hex Road
Jungle 3 (3) Palm Trees \ (6) Bushes
Elevation 4 (2) 24-Hex (rock\grass\swamp)
Lava 4 (11) Molten Lava \ Lava Field: (4) 7-Hex, (5) 2-Hex, (5) 1-Hex
Fortress Wall 4 (6) Walls with Bases and Wall-Walks \ (16) Battlements \ (6) Ladders
Fortress Door 5 (1) Door Arch \ (3) 1-Hex Wall-Walks \ (6) Ladders \ (10) Battlements


Glyphs (40 Extra Army Draft Points or 1 Extra Battlefield Point)
You may gain additional Army Draft Points and Battlefield Points by giving your opponent access to glyphs, which only your opponent can use. You may only provide one of each glyph, and each is worth 40 additional Army Draft Points or 1 additional Battlefield Point, not both. A figure’s movement does not have to stop when moving over a glyph. You may move your figures through your own glyphs as if they were an empty space, but you cannot ever place a figure you control on them. Before each game, as you are placing your figures, you may place your glyphs power side down on any rock, sand, grass, or swamp hex on your battlefield.

The useable glyphs are:


Luck +1 \ Move +2 \ Attack +1 \ Defense +1 \ Range +4

Glyph Capture
Any figure on a glyph may attempt to capture the glyph instead of attacking, roll the 20-sided die. If you roll a 1-14, nothing happens. If you roll a 15-20, the glyph is captured, place it next to your army cards. Any captured glyph is active as if you had a figure standing on it, until the end of the game.

Starting Zone
Your starting zone is the 24 spaces in the 2 rear most rows of your battlefield. You may add up to 3 additional rows of 12 spaces, by spending 1 Battlefield Point for each row. Tiles, obstacles, and glyphs, may be added on top of starting zone spaces, but any starting space with a glyph, that is blocked by an obstacle, or higher than 2 levels above the base, is no longer a starting space.

Maximum Elevation
You cannot stack terrain tiles more than 10 levels above the base level, except for fortress walls which may reach up to level 13 when placed on top of 2 tiles. The maximum elevation of; the access path, your starting zone, center line, and wall elevation is 2 levels above the base.

Accessibility
You cannot prohibit sections of your battlefield.

· Every space on your battlefield must be accessible without flying by all small and medium single spaced figures without crossing molten lava and without having to climb up more than 3 levels.

· Every space on your battlefield must be accessible by all small and medium flying figures without having to open or destroy the fortress door.

· Double based figures must be able to enter or engage at least 90% of the spaces on your battlefield (this will be a judgment call, using Krug to test).

· There must be at least one complete access path from your opponent’s battlefield to the last row of your starting zone without crossing molten lava, blue water, a glyph, or a space that is more than 2 levels above the base level. All spaces in the access path must fit a double spaced figure on them.

· There must be at least one complete path from each starting space to every other starting space without crossing molten lava or a space that is more than 2 levels above the base level.

· The row of 12 hexes adjacent to your opponent’s battlefield cannot be more than 2 levels above the base level and cannot contain; ruins, walls, trees, water, swamp water, ice, glaciers, or lava tiles.


Fortress (Walls, Tower, and Door)
The castle walls and door cannot have more than 2 levels of terrain between them and the base level. No wall section may be stacked double tall. No tile may be placed on top of a wall-walk tile that is on top of a wall, not even another wall-walk. The fortress door can only be opened or closed on your turn, while moving a figure you control. The fortress door does not block the access path to your starting zone, even if closed. Spare wall-walk or roof tiles may be used as road. The 3 hexes under the fortress door must be on the same level. Fortress wall sections must be attached to at least one other fortress wall, door, or tower. A Tower may stand alone.

Marro Hive
The marro hive may be placed anywhere on your battlefield, even outside of your starting zone.

Suspended Tiles (Caves, and Bridges)
All suspended tiles must be structurally secure. All useable hexes under suspended tiles must be easily reachable by player’s hands and visible with out moving terrain. There must be at least 9 levels of clearance under any suspended tile above the access path. All caves and overhangs with less than 9 levels of clearance cannot have a glyph placed under them. Cave clearance includes the entire path to get into the cave.

Water Edges
Water, swamp water, and lava tiles must be properly surrounded by full-height tiles, unless on the outer edge of the battlefield.

Snow & Ice
All snow and ice hexes require 2 spaces of movement to enter the hex instead of 1.


Score Card
Points: Your total army points remaining on the battlefield at the end of a game. If the game is called on time, subtract your opponent’s total army points on the battlefield from your total. This is only used for tie breaking. Count a hero’s entire point value regardless of how many wounds it has, and a squads entire point value even if some figures have been destroyed. Win/Loss: Circle the W if you won the game, L if you lost the game, and both if the game ended in a tie. SOS: After all games have been completed, find how many wins each of your opponents has, multiply this by 10. A tie counts as a win in this case. Final Score: Your final score is determined by adding up your total Points and total SOS. The winner is the player with the highest Final Score. Glyphs: Circle each glyph you are using, and write in how many bonus army or battlefield points you are claiming. Army & Battlefield: write down your entire drafted army and each terrain group, and its total points.

[StarofEarendil]

This could turn out interesting, but I guess I'll have to wait for the rules to be typed up.

[Draconious]

PRUNE this post, obsolete content.

[StarofEarendil]

So we get 1000 points for figures and land extentions?
Hmm...I'll have to try this at home one of these days...

[Draconious]

Yes, Draft points are for terrain and your army.

EDIT: This is not true anymore... needed to seperate battlefield and army points.

[Draconious]

Obsolete Content

[DrRansom]

Drac, this idea is absolutely cool. I cannot yet commit to coming but I have to say I love your creative and adventurous style!

Please keep it up!

[ParaGoomba Slayer]

This terrian thing is kind of complicated. Don't you think it's a bit early to introduce a bunch of rules and stuff until we have alot of players going? it looks pretty interesting though.

I have a few questions:

1.) You said no proxies. But what if I, for example, wanted to use a regular Swog Rider and a printout of Nerak's card as a substitute for Nerak?

2.) I assume you have to draft the 6-hex swamp base to use the Marro Hive, right? Or does it come free with the Hive?

3.) Do I get the maximum amount of manditory terrian for free?

I'm thinking of some evil ways to hide those 10 glyphs. I'll come up with a way. There has to be a loophole somewhere.

[Draconious]

Repaints are ok... in the case of the swog it would technically be a repaint... I might even accept the 4th mass subbing for the 10th so long as both are not in the same army or used by yoru opponent (kind of hard to predict), but I would rather see NO PROXIES. I definatly dont want to see a nagrub being used as charos.........

I think i also need to put in a rule about no-overhangs or caverns on the terrain... possibly making it a minimum of X levels so figures can fit under an over hang, so you dont go making all the glyphs hidden in a cubby hole were only nagrubs can get them...

Overal this event, should be a chance to use your dream army... with ideal map situations.

940: All 5 dragons - dont need glyphs, or more start zones...
1160: All Samurai, including kato, hato, 3 ashigaru pairs, and 2 archers - will require startzones - and a double base figure
1380: A full force of marro hive and hivelords including 3 or 4x some of the commons - requires start zones
Fill your side up with water, and use vipers
Put water on height, and use microcorp!


Obsolete Content has been trimed out of this post...

[MI_Tiger]

Right now it looks like my son and I will be able to make this game day.

I like the map idea, but I'm wary of the 1000+ point armies. It seems like every tournament raises the point limit a little more. I'm getting nostalgic for "the good old days" of 400-500 point armies that can finish in less than an hour.

It seems like there are 2 ways to go on this tournament:
1) Play "defensive" by building a terrain-specific army and the ideal map for that army (elevated water and a lots of Microcorp, or a castle with Omnicrons, or even lots of lava and Obsidian Guards). With this strategy, you will probably spend quite a few points on map features and you will hope the enemy will come to you.
2) Play "offensive" with a highly mobile army that can get through whatever terrain your opponent puts up. This would have lots of flyers or figures with other movement powers (Sgt Drake, monks). Theracus and Saylind could be very popular picks. With this strategy, your own map is less important so all of your points could go to the army.

I'm not sure which way I'll go, but either way should give the opportunity to see some seldom-used figures

[Draconious]

Originally Posted by MI_Tiger

... either way should give the opportunity to see some seldom-used figures

This is kind of what I am going for, I would not be surprised to see tealord or even dund in someones army...

Due to the size, we will have to remember to set the timer for the 2 hour limit, I think this is about how much time we spent on each game last time.

I am currently trying to think of any scoring problems... right now it is primarily focused on the difference between each players army points that are left on the battlefield (only the army counts not the terrain).

Basically adding up what each player has left... and finding the difference. Then for a final score I am throwing in the points of everyone you defeated... or maybe just everyone you played. to act as a strength of schedule.


Still working on changes... hopefully I will have them finalized by this weekend. so there is 2 weeks left for army/battlefield planning.

So far I got rid of the maximum elevation limit... hopefully I wont regret this, you can now go over 6 levels, so now it is a guessing game of just how tall everyone goes... and if you really need to go that tall.

And to make giving your opponents glyphs more of a risk, I am thinking of adding this in... or something like it. This is also supose to serve as a sort of capture the flag effect, with out actually ending the game when you capture it, just giving you power over the opponent. It is to counter act those sticking all 10 glyphs on the last row of their starting zone... this way if you get a minion or sentinel on a glyph back there, you got a chance of actually using it before the figure dies.

Glyph Capture (this rule may be discarded due to overkill)
Any figure on a glyph may attempt to capture the glyph. Instead of attacking, roll the 20-sided die. If you roll a 1-2, the glyph is destroyed and unusable, remove it from the battlefield. If you roll a 2-15, nothing happens. If you roll a 16-20, the glyph is captured, place it next to your army cards. Any captured glyph is active as if you had a figure standing on it, until the end of the game.