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Old April 26th, 2012, 05:24 PM
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SnappleScape: 1st Edition - MagicScape

I've tried out a number of custom rules sets of my own creation trying to come up with new and fun ways to play with my awesome HeroScape stuff. Here is my first set of rules that I felt was actually decent enough to share. I'd love to hear any and all feedback.

MagicScape: Trials of the Planeswalkers

OK, so I know people have tried to merge HeroScape and Magic the Gathering quite a few times and I know, it's never really turned out spectacular. You might even argue that it's just a horrible idea and I shouldn't even bother. Well, I've got a lot of magic cards and I've got a lot of HeroScape and I just love the idea of combining the two. Why is this going to work when so many others have failed? Well, it probably won't, but I think I've taken a fresh and simple approach where others have simply tried too hard and the result is a clunky frankenstein monster of a game (if it could even be called that).

Warning!!!: This game contains dungeon crawling and deck-building! If you don't like either of those genres, you can stop now and I can save you some valuable time.

If you want to get right to the game, skip all this intro crap and get right to the "So here's my game"

We all know what's freakin awesome about both games, so let me focus on the downside of each which will hopefully be fixed by merging the 2. And then let me warn you of the downsides of my game.

HeroScape

- No surprise: Once the armies are all setup, the game largely plays out in a predictable manner. Ranged units run and gun while melee units try to get in close and do damage before they get taken out. There's no “magic” moments where you're so close to death, but if you just draw your last fireball, you might be able to pull out a victory. The dice add some of that surprise, but it's just not the same as drawing that perfect card in MtG.
- Too much luck: I don't think anyone will argue that a game of HS lives and dies by the die rolls. Magic has a lot of luck too, but a deck of cards means you're eventually going to get what you're looking for. With dice, you just might never roll a skull again in your whole life.
- No magic: As others have pointed out, HeroScape's magic is largely made up of just a skill or 2 per unit. That's all well and good, but I'm looking for a deep magic system where counterspells and healing potions are flung with abandon and pestilence and earthquakes can change the feel of the game completely at the drop of a hat.
- Not deep enough: For those that say HeroScape doesn't even qualify as a light wargame, I pretty much agree with you. It's fun, but it just doesn't keep you up at night thinking of new strategies the way Magic does.

Magic the Gathering:

- $$$/balance: It's a money drain and the guy that scoured the internet for the best legal deck and then bought it is probably going to win. That sucks. It sucks so bad that it's probably why I don't play Magic any more. This is mitigated by the "cube" approach which I really want to try sometime or by countless other variants, but you still feel like it's pretty difficult to play a completely balanced game of Magic like you can with Summoner Wars.
- No tactics: My biggest problem with Magic is that it's not a board game. If magic was invented with a dueling board where you place the monsters down and play out the tactics like Summoner Wars, it would probably have made my teenage mind explode back in the 90’s. Ever since I played my first magic game, I thought well why the hell can't my grizzly bear just chase down that stupid prodigal sorcerer and eat him instead of letting him ping me for 1 each freakin turn.
- Too much emphasis on customization: OK, this might actually be a huge positive for some, but making your deck and fine-tuning it is about 2/3 of this game. I don't have time for this anymore and you shouldn't either unless you're a tournament player or an anti-social kid (which I was). I'd much rather be playing than fine-tuning and I've found that too much fine-tuning means you're probably going to win too many times and people are going to stop playing with you. Yet another advantage of playing Summoner Wars instead of Magic. At this point, if you've read all this, you're saying "why aren't you just playing Summoner Wars?" to which I say, I do, but I like minis and I like a pretty map and I like dungeon crawls and I like deck building which are all a big part of my game.

MS: TotPW (My Game):

- Big freakin investment: You need a decent amount of MtG and a lot of HeroScape. If you don't have either, you should probably stop reading now. If you don't have magic, it's probably not too hard to come up with a decent stack of the cheap MtG cards you need if you look through my guide even if you have no MtG at all. Starting out with zero HeroScape makes this a huge investment especially at today's prices (this is primarily why I posted this here and not BGG).
- Crazy amount of inital setup: Going through your MtG and HS for what you need does take a while, but it’s fun and you'll only need to do it once (unless you go back and forth from this and regular HS). After that, setup and take down isn't too bad, but like any deck-building game, you're going to have to sort things out when you're done. This is typically much less sorting than other deck builders.
- Takes a while: I've played it a couple times and it takes probably 2 hours initially, but that will probably get down to the hour range if you play it a bunch.
- Too much going on???: I could see some making the argument that there's just too much... stuff. Frankly, I love games with too much stuff, but it is certainly intimidating to someone who doesn't play games with a lot of stuff. If you're going to show this to someone who took one look at everything in a box of Axis and Allies or Twilight Imperium and ran away, you'll probably get the same reaction. MtG and HeroScape both had a certain amount of elegance. MtG was just 2 decks of cards and HS comes in a nice board-game-like box. I'm blowing all that completely out of the water. This is specifically for collectors with an addiction, or people who embrace the epic. Now that I think about it, what you start out with here is significantly prettier than starting out with say … Axis and Allies, so if you’re good, you can trick your opponent into thinking it’s really a simple game and the game will naturally expand as you dungeon crawl, expand the map and add cards/creatures to your deck.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

So here's my game

Back-story: You are a PlanesWalker Initiate. You've studied for years under the tutelage of your master and are now ready to attempt the Trials and be given the title of PlanesWalker. The Trials are held every year in the dungeon of the PlanesMasters where each room holds monsters waiting to attack and spells and artifacts that you can add to your arsenal. You and the other initiate(s) are transported to the starting area where you will begin your quest. Strict rules have been given to each initiate to not interfere with anyone else’s quest until the final room has been unlocked at which point the trial becomes a fight to the death. Only one will emerge to claim the title of PlanesWalker.

Requirements (2 player game): At least 35 minis that match magic cards. At least 2 castle sets or lots of dungeon sets for road/dungeon tiles. Magic cards: 35 creatures, 16 artifacts, 50 land, 38 spells. 2 Initiate minis. Familiarity with the standard Magic the Gathering rules. Wherever I haven’t covered rules here, refer to MtG rules.

The Basic Idea: It’s basically MtG, HeroScape, Summoner Wars, Dungeon Run and Thunderstone/Dominion rolled into one game. Instead of trying to add a magic system to HS, I simply threw out the HS cards and went with all MtG cards. I feel this avoids a lot of the pitfalls other variants have fallen into. You pick one mini to act as your PlanesWalker and they get 20 life just as in MtG. You’ll each start with 6 dungeon rooms that you have to move through until you can enter the final dungeon room and fight the final set of monsters after which point you can beat the snot out of all the other initiates who hopefully haven’t done as well as you have constructing your magic library. You’ll start with a small deck of cards consisting of low-level creatures, spells and land as well as your most treasured artifact that you brought from home. With each room conquered, you’ll add to that deck. The spell casting and battle system are very close to what MtG is, but now you can directly attack creatures with other creatures. Unlike MtG, when you run out of cards, you simply shuffle your graveyard back into your deck and draw normally. It’s a dungeon crawl that’s largely you versus the dungeon until the boss room is revealed at which point the game shifts to a MtG duel/battle-royale played out on a tactical map.

Setup

Cards/Units: The game units consist of 2 decks of creatures, 1 deck of treasure spells/land, 1 deck of treasure artifacts, and then a starting deck for each player. Each creature card must have a matching mini (doesn’t have to be HS as D&D, Star Wars and HeroClix minis work just as well). Matching up cards to minis is the main tricky part of getting this game together. Some minis match cards really well while others require a certain leap of faith. Of course if you want to play a card with a mini that has absolutely no resemblance, go for it, but my card/mini guide should help get you a decent selection of creatures to play with. I also like to go with cards that have a more abstract art style thus allowing you much more license when picking a matching mini.




The lesser creature deck must consist of at least 1 creature of each color (including colorless) of casting cost no more than 3 for each player. So for a 2 player game you would have at least 12 lesser creatures. The greater creature deck must consist of at least 1 creature of each color (including colorless) of casting cost greater than 3 for each player plus 3 additional ones for the final battle. This would be 15 for a 2 player game. The artifact deck should consist of at least 1 non-creature artifact for each room the dungeon will have (12 for a 2 player game). They should all be roughly the same casting cost and usability. The closer they are, the less luck factors into game. You don’t want someone getting the glasses of urza while another player gets the black lotus. The spell/land deck must consist of 3 basic land and 3 spells from each of the 5 colors for each player in the game (total size of 60 for a 2 player game). The spells should be of casting cost 4 or greater, but exceptions should be made to include single copies of such highly useful spells as disenchant, swords to plowshares, counterspell, regrowth, terror, etc. These are to be considered the “higher level” spells that an initiate must use to become a higher level wizard. In addition to all this, each player can pick a “boss artifact” that remains with the boss room until the bosses are defeated. Once the boss is defeated, that player may choose their predefined boss artifact and add it to their collection.

Starting Player Deck: Each starting deck must consist of 4 creatures of casting cost no more than 3, 4 spells of casting cost no more than 3, 4 basic land and a non-creature artifact of casting cost no more than 3 (casting costs including an X are immediately disqualified). This is where your magic skills come into play. You must pick cards that an initiate would use, but try to pick cards that form a cohesive starting deck. I’ve also found that certain restrictions need to be made to enable a more fun experience. Only include 1 insta-death card in your deck. This includes direct damage cards like lightning bolt as well as cards like terror and swords to plowshares. Also, only one counterspell should be allowed. Only include 1 first strike creature as this ability has a tendency of being almost game breaking in the beginning half of the game when taking out dungeon monsters.



The Dungeon: The dungeon will consist of a starting area, 6 rooms per player and a boss room. The starting room and final room should be a perfect hexagon with each side being 3 hexes long (19 spaces total). Place a landmark in the middle of the starting room (I use a rock outcropping). Place each player’s wizard mini in a space next to the center space.



Each dungeon room is a 7 hex piece with height = 2 consisting of a 7 hex base (to keep everything nice and tidy) of any type and topped with an assortment of single, double and triple hexes in the following order. One room should be a dead end with a single road tile on a corner. One room should have 2 road tiles on the edges at opposite positions. One should have 3 road tiles equally spaced from each other along the edges. One should have 4 road tiles in groups of 2 along the edges. One should have 5 road tiles along the edge and one should have all 6 edge spaces populated with road tiles. These 6 rooms should then be randomized (I line them up and use dice to order them) and stacked up in a tower. After playtesting a while, I found it’s best to put the dead end always at the bottom of the stack as it’s too much of a roadblock if you encounter it in the beginning. When you enter a room, you’ll take the top room from your stack and place it according to the placement rules.



Playing your Turn

Each player’s turn is very similar to playing a turn in Magic. There’s the Untap phase followed by Upkeep, then the Main phase where movement, battle and spells occur, then the cleanup, discard and finally the draw phase. Yes, that’s right, the draw phase is last in order to speed the game up and give you all the tools you need to figure out what you’re going to do on your next turn. Follow standard magic rules through all these phases except for the main phase.

Main Phase: In the main phase, you can cast a spell at any time before, during and after movement/combat. You may place a single land into play if you have one in your hand. When you’re ready, you will move all your creatures and your wizard together. After moving all your units, you can then attack with all your units. Remember, until the boss room is placed, you may only affect your opponents with counterspells and by targeting global enchantments. No spells can target the opposing players, their creatures, artifacts, lands or their hand (no discards).

Spells and Artifacts: When casting creature spells, those creatures are placed anywhere your Wizard can see with a clear line of sight. Refer to HS rules to determine line of sight. Spells that target a player or a creature must have a direct line of sight to that mini. There are no restrictions on distance as long as there is a clear line of sight. Global Enchantments are considered just that. When they are cast, they are considered to be present everywhere in the dungeon. As such, they can be targeted by a disenchant or similar spell from anywhere without line of sight. Counterspells are the only spells that target something specific, but don’t need clear line of sight. You can counter any spell that is being cast from anywhere in the dungeon while it’s being cast. All artifacts are to be considered on your Wizard’s person and all spells originate from your Wizard’s mini, so everything must have a clear line of sight to the intended target of that artifact or spell. Beneficial effects like a +1/+1 bonus as well as doing a point of damage must have a clear line of sight from the Wizard to the target creature or Wizard. Also, when destroying an artifact, since the artifact is on the wizard, you would have to have a clear line of sight to the wizard in order to destroy the artifact.

Movement: All units can move 4 spaces except flying units which can move 6. Wizards are inherently flying units as the spell of flight is taught to all initiates when they first learn the art of magic. Non-flying units may move through friendly units, but may not move through enemy units. Flying units may move through any unit. The one restriction on movement that should be noted is that if any unit begins their movement next to an enemy unit (except the enemy wizard since they generally aren’t trying to eat you or swing swords at you), that unit is considered engaged and their movement value is halved for that turn. To avoid this, you should attempt to use spells to destroy those adjacent enemy creatures before you begin your movement.

Combat: Attacking is a lot like attacking in MtG. Attacking causes a unit to tap, defending units will counterattack if they are within range AND UNTAPPED. Spells may be used during combat and if you do enough damage to match or exceed the defense value of either creature, that creature is killed at the end of combat. Units can attack together against a single target, but the target decides how counterattack damage is dealt.

Ranged Units: One of the very few major changes (possibly a kludge) I made to the MtG formula was to introduce a ranged concept where the cards don’t explicitly call out their range. If a card/mini looks like a ranged card/mini (arrows, magic missile, dragon w/fire breath, rifle, javelin, blow-gun, slingshot), it attacks from range. If a unit looks like it could have a melee attack AND a ranged attack, that unit is a ranged unit and cannot make melee attacks. This avoids any unit getting an unfair advantage by having both types of attacks. These units cannot move and attack in the same turn, but they can attack as far as they can see in the dungeon. Use HS clear line of sight rules to determine whether or not a ranged unit can target an enemy unit.

Wizard defense: While creatures can directly attack other creatures now, they can still attack wizards to remove life points, but a wizard can still use a creature to block that attack as in MtG. Any and all untapped creatures that are adjacent to the wizard can be declared as blockers of a creature-to-wizard attack as long as the attacking creature isn’t unblockable. Just like in MtG, flying creatures cannot be blocked by non-flying creatures, and so on and so forth (this doesn’t apply to counterattack damage when creatures attack other creatures). If multiple adjacent creatures are assigned as blockers to a single attack, the attacker determines how damage is applied.

Note: Empty spaces between rooms are considered to be walls which block line of sight. When determining whether a target is valid or not, place castle walls in empty spaces to make sure there is a clear line of sight. You could put walls in every empty space to give this more of a dungeon feel, but I prefer the open map and I will temporarily add castle walls to check line of sight and make sure a target is valid.

Dungeon Rooms/Placement Rules: The 6 corners of the starting room and each road-hex-corner of dungeon rooms are considered to be the doorways to new dungeon rooms where you will encounter new dungeon creatures. When you move past one of these spaces, place a single hex doubled up so that height = 2 right next to that doorway space. Next to this, place the dungeon room from the top of your stack. One of the roadway tiles must be touching the single hex. If the new dungeon room matches up with another dungeon room, you must attempt to rotate the dungeon room to make road hexes match road hexes and non-road hexes match non-road hexes such that if someone was to walk between these rooms, they would line up. If this cannot be achieved, the room is still placed, but any road hex that leads to a non-road hex is now considered a secret passageway from the side with the road hex. The non-road hex side may not be moved through until the secret passageway has been opened from the road hex side. These passageways are considered opened and can be traversed from either side when a single hex (height = 2) is placed to connect the dungeon rooms.




When entering a dungeon room, draw 2 creature cards following this formula: Your first 2 dungeon rooms = 2 lesser creatures, the next 2 dungeon rooms = 1 lesser and 1 greater, the last 2 dungeon rooms = 2 greater creatures. Control of the creatures are given to an opposing player and while they can move and attack with these creatures, they are considered completely separate from that players creatures, land, artifacts and enchantments (for example, Keldon Warlord does not get the bonus from that player’s creatures, but does from the other creature in the room). These creatures are placed first in the middle of the room and the 2nd in the rear of the room (farthest from where the player first entered the room). If you have 2 hex creatures, simply place them as far away from the player’s minis as possible. The come into play untapped and can counterattack immediately, but they only get a chance to attack if they survive the current player’s turn. One important note: these creatures do not suffer summoning sickness, so they may be tapped to use their abilities this turn.



Each dungeon room creature that is defeated is in turn placed in that player’s “stash” (More on the stash later). When a player destroys all creatures in a room, they collect the spoils of that room. Draw 5 cards from the spell/land deck and choose 2 to put in your stash. Also draw 1 card from the artifact deck. This artifact may be immediately placed in your hand, or it may be placed in your stash.

Stash: The stash is a pile of cards kept face down separate from the library and graveyard. It is basically your trove of cards that are available for adding to your library or for selling to the spell merchant for other spells. You may look at your entire stash whenever you like. When your library runs out of cards and you must draw, two things happen. First, the spell merchant visits you. Draw 7 cards from the top of the spell/land deck. You may purchase any of these cards using your stash cards at a cost of 2 stash cards per 1 spell/land. You do not have to purchase any if you don’t want to. The purchased cards are put back in your stash. The second thing that happens is you have an opportunity to put any number of stash cards into your graveyard before you shuffle your graveyard back into your library.

Final Room: When you have placed and conquered all 6 of your dungeon rooms, you may enter the final dungeon room. The large boss room should fit nicely into any open area and any connections it makes to existing rooms are automatically traversable both ways. Also, any boss room corner hexes that are not connected to another room are considered portals to the unconnected corners of all other dungeon rooms thus allowing fast movement between the final room and the other rooms in the dungeon. You may also use these portals to go directly from an unconnected corner in one dungeon room to another unconnected dungeon room corner thereby bypassing the boss room entirely. This allows for a speedy end game and also makes it so that the Wizard who opens the final room really needs to be ready for the final creatures as well as the onslaught of the other Wizards. After the room is placed, draw 3 greater creatures as you would any other dungeon room and place them in the middle/rear of the room. Give control of the boss creatures to one of the opposing players.




At this point all wizards can directly attack/affect another wizard and their creatures/artifacts through spells, artifact abilities and with creatures.

Boss creatures when defeated are put in that player’s stash just like normal dungeon room creatures. When any player defeats all the boss creatures, draw 7 cards from the spell/land deck and choose 3 to put in your stash and choose your pre-designated boss artifact card and place it in your hand.



Winning

The game is over when all opposing Wizards have 0 life.

Special Abilities (if not listed, see MtG rules for ability rules):
- Flight: Unit can move 6 spaces and can move through enemy units (still affected by engagement).
- First Strike: If lethal damage is done, the enemy unit does not get a chance to counterstrike.
- Banding: When attacking an enemy unit with 2 (or more) adjacent units and one (or more) of them have banding, you may choose how counterattack damage is done. When defending against an attack and either that unit or an adjacent unit has banding, the attack damage is distributed by the defender. If 3 adjacent units wish to band, at least 2 of them must have banding. If 4 with to band, at least 3 of them must have banding and so on.
- Trample: When attacking, all adjacent units are attacked by this unit’s attack value separately. Each unit attacked may counterattack separately. Wizards may not use an adjacent unit to defend if they are trampled.
- Landwalk: Wizards may not use an adjacent unit to defend if the attacking creature’s landwalk land type matches a land that the defending wizard has in play.
- There are many more that I’m not including here, but I’ll try to update this list as I find abilities that work with this game and that are different than how they work in the MtG rule set.

Tips

- Play this on a large table.
- Try to remember to draw at the end of your turn and plan your next move while your opponent is playing their turn to keep the game flowing at a quick pace.
- To increase the theme of a player deck, you can have each player bring their corresponding color’s worth of creatures and spells to add to the shared spell/land deck and the 2 creature decks. When they come upon those spells and creatures, their deck will grow into the deck that they designed.
- If you have 2 copies of a creature/mini in play, place a lego or similar token on the card and mini to keep it straight which card goes to which mini. This becomes very important when one copy has enchantments/tokens on it.
- Don’t put wussy creatures in the creature decks. Cards like Keldon Warlord or Combat Medic are not good candidates to encounter in the dungeon. You could add these and house rule it to where any time you draw one of these, you draw an additional creature (only do this if you’ve added extra creatures to the decks).

Teams: This game lends itself to team play. 2v2 or 3v3 is possible with the 6th player starting with an artificer deck consisting of 5 low level artifacts, 4 low level artifact creatures and 4 basic lands.

Variants

- For a more euro game feel, just play the first half where you may not directly affect your opponents. The first to conquer the 3 boss creatures wins. For this variant to work properly, the final boss room does not connect via portal to the other rooms thereby making it more important for the other Wizards to either keep up with their own dungeon rooms or veer off and seek out the lead Wizard when they are close to entering the final room.
- Alternately for a more quick and direct conflict and less deck-building and dungeon crawling, each player may create a deck of at least 30 cards and construct a map of any type/size. Place your wizard in your starting area and the game plays out according to the above rules without the dungeon rooms/spoils/stash/merchant.
- If starting with one color seems too limiting, have each starter deck include 2 colors (split equally half and half).
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Old April 26th, 2012, 05:36 PM
Snappleman's Avatar
Snappleman Snappleman is offline
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Re: SnappleScape: 1st Edition - MagicScape

Snappleman's Magic Card to Scape Mini Guide (work in progress)
(* means that it's almost a perfect match)
I use gatherer.wizards.com to lookup the cards.

HeroScape

Raelin - Archangel, Serra Angel, Luminous Angel
Tarn Viking Warriors - Balduvian Barbarians*, Foot Soldiers, Glory Seeker
Deathwalker 9000 - Juggernaut
Mimring - Any golden dragon - Shivan Dragon*
Ne-Gok-Sa -
Syvarris -
Thorgrim -
Finn -
Zettian Guards -
Grimnak - Imperiosaur
Izumi Samurai - Brothers Yamazaki, Kumano's Pupils, Toshiro Umezawa

Tor-Kul-Na - Undead Warchief
Drudge/Stingers - Lurking Nightstalker, Prowling Nightstalker
Marrden Nagrubs - Greater Mossdog, Armor Thrull
Sonlen - Meddling Mage, Brimstone Mage

Ferral Troll - Sedge Troll*, Hedge Troll, Albino Troll, Sea Troll
Tandros - Boros Switftblade
Darrak Ambershard - Dwarven Vigilantes
Pelloth - Lord of the Undead, Dragonmaster Outcast, "Dralnu, Lich Lord", Orzhov Guildmage
Othkurik - Catacomb Dragon, Ebon Dragon

Obsidian Guards - Coal Stoker*, Coal Golem, Bloodpyre Elemental, Lavacore Elemental, Greater Forgeling, Vent Sentinel

Dzu-Teh - Karplusan Yeti*, Ohran Yeti, Stalking Yeti

Fyorlag Spiders - Any Spider

Dumutef Guard - Spiritmonger*, Rakeclaw Gargantuan, Detritivore

Sujoah - Giant Dustwasp*
Zelrig - Rathi Dragon*
Wo-Sa-Ga - Thundering Wurm*, Streetbreaker Wurm*, Plated Slagwurm, Spined Wurm

Brunak - Centaur Safeguard, "Stonebrow, Krosan Hero"
Charos - Any Green Dragon - Shivan Dragon (old version), Canopy Dragon
Jotun - Oathsworn Giant, Hill Giant, Highland Giant, Mountain Titan
Su-Bak-Na - "Skithiryx, the Blight Dragon"*, Bladewing the Risen*, Draco, Silent Specter

Braxas - Ebon Dragon*
Theracus - Any griffen - Razor Hippogriff*, Harrier Griffen
Nilfheim - Any White Dragon - Alabaster Dragon, Exalted Dragon*, Pearl Dragon, Treva the Renewer

Marcus - Steward of Valeron
Taelord the Kyrie Warrior - Rakdos the Defiler*, Lord of the Pit, "Kuro, Pitlord", Leige of the Pit, Stronghold Overseer, Abyssal Persecutor
Roman Legionnaires - Conclave Phalanx, Stalwart Shield Bearers
Roman Archers - Elite Archers, Longbow Archer
Venoc Vipers - Serpent Warrior*, Serpent Assassin, Bassilisk???, Rampart Crawler, Serpentine Basilisk, Patagia Viper
Blade Grut - Keldon Berserker

Sir Denrick - Northern Paladin*
Minions of Utgar - Any demon - Bloodgift Demon
Knights of Weston - Sacred Knight, Northern Paladin, Staunch Defenders
Marro Drones - Abyssal Nightstalker, Null Champion
4th Massachusetts Line - Alaborn Musketeer (closest I could come)

Deathwalker 7000 - Platinum Emperion
Concan the Kyrie Warrior - Angel of Mercy*, Warrior Angel, Angelic Overseer
Marrden Hounds - Scourge Devil*, Undead Leotau, Kavu Predator, Phyrexian Ghoul, Kiln Fiend, Hollow Dogs, Lava Hounds
Shaolin Monks - Budoka Pupil*, Okina Nightwatch, Order of the Sacred Bell
Sentinels of Jandar - Sustainer of the Realm, Serra Advocate
MacDirk Warriors - Highland Berserker*

Valguard - Keldon Warlord, Kresh the Bloodbraided
Tagawa Samurai - Meng Huo's Horde, Iizuka the Ruthless, Samurai Enforcers
Aubrien Archers - Selesnya Sagittars*, Norwood Archers, Elvish Archers, Skyshroud Archer

Warriors of Ashra - Elvish Warrior*, Wood Elves, Norwood Warrior, Safehold Sentry, Elvish Berserker
Ninjas of the Northern Wind - Ninja of the Deep Hours, Okiba-Gang Shinobi, Nightshade Assassin, Stronghold Assassin
Blastatrons - Trokin High Guard
Deathstalkers - Clockwork Beast*

Zombies of Morindan - Any Zombies
Einar Imperium - Phantasmal Forces*
Shades of Bleakwoode - Bog Wraith*, Drift of Phantasms, Frozen Shade, Ghost Quarter
Heavy Gruts - Orcish Veteran
Runa - Copper-Leaf Angel*, Avatar of Discord*
Empress Kiova - Angel of Salvation

Cyprien Esenwein - Sengir Vampire*, Baron Sengir
Sonya Esenwein - Sengir Vampire*
Iskra Esenwein - Sengir Vampire*
Marcu Esenwein - Minions of Leshrac
Kyntela Gwyn - Dawnglare Invoker*
Isamu - Nekrataal
Ashigaru Yari - Faithful Squire*, Volunteer Militia*, Pikemen
Templar Cavalry - Charging Paladin, White Knight, Caravan Escort, Knight Errant, Knight of Valor
Rechets of Bogdan - Any gargoyle -

Kato Katsuro - "Takeno, Samurai General"*, Konda's Hatamoto
Sir Dupuis - Seasoned Marshal*, Knight of the Skyward Eye
Moriko - Walker of Secret Ways, Fortune Thief
Otonoshi - Walker of Secret Ways, Nightshade Assassin
Jorhdawn - Archivist*, Reckless Embermage, Skill Borrower
Chardris - Fireslinger*, Prodigal Pyromancer
Wolves of Badru - Any dog/hound/wolf - Guard Dogs

Kumiko - "Higure, the Still Wind"*
Capuan Gladiators - Crowd Favorites, Frontline Strategist
Marro Dividers - Corpse Harvester*
Axegrinders of Burning Forge - Any Dwarf -

Granite Guardians - Rockslide Elemental*, Glass Golem, Obsianus Golem, Rumbling Slum
Quasatch Hunters - Gorilla Warrior, Sylvan Yeti, Karplusan Strider, Shambling Strider
Sir Hawthorne - Black Knight*, Order of the Ebon Hand

Greenscale Warriors - Lizard Warrior*, Burning-Tree Bloodscale
Water Elemental - Water Elemental*, Brine Elemental*, Waterspout Elemental, Tideforce Elemental
Earth Elemental - Earth Elemental*, Kami of Old Stone, Mirror Golem
Fire Elemental - Fire Elemental*
Air Elemental - Air Elemental*, Cloud Spirit, Fog Elemental
Wyvern - Sabertooth Wyvern, Flowstone Wyvern
Fen Hydra - Any Hydra - Khalni Hydra*, Rock Hydra
Phantom Knights - Phantom Warrior, Ghosts of the Innocent, Celestial Crusader, Revered Dead
Sahuagin Raider - Any Merfolk, Rootwater Commando*
Estivara - Sorceress Queen, Vein Drinker, Dakmor Sorceress, Thoughtpicker Witch, Blood Cultist, Coffin Queen, Bitterheart Witch
Torin - Cyclopean Giant, Tar Pit Warrior
Greater Ice Elemental - Primal Plasma

Goblin Cutters - Any Goblins - Festering Goblin
Heirloom - Wizard Replica*
Mika Connour - Selhoff Occultist*, Deft Duelist
Ogre Warhulk - Menacing Ogre, Ogre Sentry, Skull Collector
Black Wyrmling - Any black drake - Scavenger Drake*
Red Wyrmling - Any red drake - Flowstone Wyvern*, Dragon Whelp
Mind Flayer Mastermind - Loxodon Hierarch, Loxodon Mystic
Iron Golem - Darksteel Sentinel, "Bosh, Iron Golem", Titanium Golem
Warforged Soldiers - Moriok Replica*, Porcelain Legionnaire*, Soldier Replica
Werewolf Lord - Howlpack Alpha, Howlpack of Estwald, Nightfall Predator

Siege - Benalish Commander, Coralhelm Commander, Gustcloak Sentinel
Evar Scarcarver - Sparkmage Apprentice*
Ogre Pulverizer - Grey Ogre, Ogre Recluse, Borderland Behemoth
Death Knights - Drudge Reavers
Frost Giant - Ivory Giant, Frost Titan
Master of the Hunt - Master of the Wild Hunt

Acolarh - Selesnya Guildmage*

Master Win Chiu Woo - Human Ascendant*, Homura, Iwamori of the Open Fist

Agent Skahen - "Jaya Ballard, Task Mage"


HeroClix

Swampthing - Plant Elemental*, Forgotten Ancient, Force of Nature
Wasp - Any Sprite
Clayface - Flowstone Giant*, Primal Clay
Silver Samurai - Kitsune Blademaster
Carnage - Sangrophage
Shatterstar - Kazandu Blademaster
Iron Man - Crosis's Attendant*
Juggernaut - Juggernaut
Wendigo (brown) - Karplusan Strider
Wendigo (white) - Wettigo
Man-Thing - Fungus Elemental
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Old April 26th, 2012, 09:51 PM
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Re: SnappleScape: 1st Edition - MagicScape

A LOT of work must have went into this!

It also looks pretty amazing, I will have to try it out, real soon.

I just hope that my triples of every Conflux card ever made has enough creature analogues to HeroScape minis

Once again, great job, and with additions like these, I expect to see you get a lot of green bars fast!

+rep!

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  #4  
Old April 28th, 2012, 04:03 AM
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Re: SnappleScape: 1st Edition - MagicScape

Man, if my Brother in law sees this, I KNOW he is gonna want to play. I think it looks like fun, but if he gets super addicted, it will be all he ever talks about... he already talks about Magic: The Gathering way too much.

Good work on putting this together.
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Old April 28th, 2012, 05:58 PM
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Re: SnappleScape: 1st Edition - MagicScape

Thanks for the kind words you guys. I realize there's not much of an audience for this, especially now. It's fun to put this stuff together. I'm secretly a game maker at heart and mash-ups apparently are my passion.
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Old April 28th, 2012, 05:59 PM
Griffin Griffin is offline
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Re: SnappleScape: 1st Edition - MagicScape

I believe if this game was in boxes at game stores everywhere, it would do EXTREMELY well. I know I would buy it, and I plan on playing this with my brother in law.
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Old April 29th, 2012, 07:50 AM
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Re: SnappleScape: 1st Edition - MagicScape

If this game was in a box, it would cost roughly $250 and only a single copy would sell and that would be my Mom who always supports her offspring in whatever they do. The cool part about this game is that very little balancing needs to be put in place since Magic has had plenty of play-testing.
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Old April 29th, 2012, 02:32 PM
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Re: SnappleScape: 1st Edition - MagicScape

I don't have any Magic cards and I don't want any, but this looks like a cool idea and is the most I've ever been tempted to get any. (But still not enough!). I like Thunderstone as kind of a Dominion/Heroscape mash up, but the actual dungeon battles are pretty limited to just cards from your deck - it'd be fun to spice them up with minis and dice rolling.

C3G can be played with official Heroscape, but it's not recommended.


DISCLAIMER: C3G claims no ownership of the characters or artwork used for C3G customs. All rights for the characters belong to their respective publishers/creators. C3G cards are not intended for sale, and C3G does not authorize any party to profit from C3G cards.

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  #9  
Old April 29th, 2012, 06:17 PM
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Re: SnappleScape: 1st Edition - MagicScape

Quote:
Originally Posted by IAmBatman View Post
I don't have any Magic cards and I don't want any, but this looks like a cool idea and is the most I've ever been tempted to get any. (But still not enough!). I like Thunderstone as kind of a Dominion/Heroscape mash up, but the actual dungeon battles are pretty limited to just cards from your deck - it'd be fun to spice them up with minis and dice rolling.
ThunderScape is absolutely on my todo list.
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Old April 29th, 2012, 07:20 PM
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Re: SnappleScape: 1st Edition - MagicScape

Quote:
Originally Posted by Snappleman View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by IAmBatman View Post
I don't have any Magic cards and I don't want any, but this looks like a cool idea and is the most I've ever been tempted to get any. (But still not enough!). I like Thunderstone as kind of a Dominion/Heroscape mash up, but the actual dungeon battles are pretty limited to just cards from your deck - it'd be fun to spice them up with minis and dice rolling.
ThunderScape is absolutely on my todo list.
For that one, I think you'd have to make custom cards where you could purchase Heroscape heroes or treasure glyphs, etc., to bring with you into the dungeon and then you could actually do the dungeon battles with dice and hexes.

C3G can be played with official Heroscape, but it's not recommended.


DISCLAIMER: C3G claims no ownership of the characters or artwork used for C3G customs. All rights for the characters belong to their respective publishers/creators. C3G cards are not intended for sale, and C3G does not authorize any party to profit from C3G cards.

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  #11  
Old August 14th, 2012, 05:46 PM
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Re: SnappleScape: 1st Edition - MagicScape

That looks pretty awesome. I don't have the magic cards either, but I do have quite a few V:tES .
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